Author Topic: Stick welding tenons ok?  (Read 15620 times)

Jimmy0

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Stick welding tenons ok?
« on: March 21, 2009, 10:15:48 PM »
Hey there guys, i've recently gotten into the gunmaking scene after about 10 years of study/practice off and on, and i've nearly got my first gun made, but the part that has me stumped the most, is attaching the tenons...

In all honesty, i didn't realize this would be such an issue, i thought it would be one of the least hard aspects of gunmaking. I tried dovetailing them on, but it seemed too time consuming, and somewhat impractical for me (i was planning on doing THREE tenons, if not more) and i was not especially good at dovetailing, in the end, i decided to use this method of tenon attachment as a last resort... then i thought of the engine hoist i welded together from scratch recently, why not weld them on?

And so i cut a few pieces of A36 1" x 1/8" x 1/2" and welded one of these "tenons" in the middle, then one six inches further down, then a last one, six more inches further down (about 4 - 5" from the muzzle) but the problem is... the welds are very VERY ugly, and crude looking, but very strong... but i got to worrying... in the process of welding, a few shallow, small indentations no deeper than 1/8" have managed to "burn" out of the barrel, near the weld areas, would these, and the welds in general, of course... weaken the barrel structure any? Or am i just being paranoid? Does anyone else have experience at welding tenons on? This barrel is made of 4130 steel, about 41 inches long, and 1/4" thick throughout the length, and .75 calibur

On a side note... i really didn't want to have to manipulate the barrel AT ALL to attach it to the stock, but doing so, no matter what method i could read about/think of, seemed inevitable. The exception being barrel bands, which are not remotely correct for this period firearm (medieval matchlock).
Anyway before the welding, the barrel performed great at the range, using the tire/fuse method to test, i tested 100 grain ffg charge w/ buck and ball, and a few "normal"  shots of about 85 gr ffg, i'll test using other more advanced methods later.
Thanks for reading, and any help will be appreciated!

Offline Dave B

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Re: Stick welding tenons ok?
« Reply #1 on: March 21, 2009, 11:00:23 PM »
Jim,
Welcome to the forum. The guys here are some of the best out there building some of the finest in muzzleloaders. I know that some of the cheeper kits use welded on lugs and must work ok but I beleive they are 3/8"in their barrel thick ness. A normal proofing for a 75 cal should be around 200 grains of powder with a double ball. If your weld has pocked the barrel to a depth of 1/8 inch then you have only the same left to the bore. I know of guys that have filled old screw holes by welding but it affects the temper of the steel at that place. The use of dove tails is by far the better way to go. They don't have to be deep to be effective. My first ones were way too deep. I now use the hack saw and cold chisel method and can make a dove tail quicker than it takes to set up my milling machine to cut them.
The beauty is your not messing with the temper of your steel.  I wouldnt trust your  barrel till you proofed it again with a much heavier load now that youve welded on the barrel. Maybe some others can chime in to give you some feed back.
Dave Blaisdell

Offline jerrywh

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Re: Stick welding tenons ok?
« Reply #2 on: March 21, 2009, 11:24:21 PM »
I would just about bet money that the barrel is warped now.
Nobody is always correct, Not even me.

Offline Pete Allan

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Re: Stick welding tenons ok?
« Reply #3 on: March 22, 2009, 12:25:42 AM »
I have seen welding on barrels before and on every one we pushed a lead slug through the barrel and found a REAL tight spot where the weld was. It felt to us like the inside dia. of the barrel shrunk quite a bit from the heat.

Jimmy0

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Re: Stick welding tenons ok?
« Reply #4 on: March 22, 2009, 01:11:17 AM »
Thanks for the replys so far guys,
yeah, i was afraid i might have messed something up somewhere, i'll check for warpage, and yeah i'll most definately test fire some more. Believe me, i thought long and hard about what kind of method i should use, i did such a good job breeching etc. till that point, i sure didn't want to ruin it, lol. I recently read you can solder tenons on, that was a new one on me... didn't think soldering would withstand that kind of recoil. I'll probably try that in the future - it would probably require the least ammount of barrel manipulation out of all the methods i've heard. Welding the barrel was about the easiest, and most practical way of attaching the tenons (for my circumstances) that i could think of at the moment, i would have definately prefered some other way though. Anyway... i guess i'll see what i can determine from a visual, and further testing.
Also you mention, Dave about a double ball test? I've heard Dixie Gun Works mention something like that, but putting multiple projectiles in the barrel sure sounded dangerous... the other account i heard of that was the explorer De Champlaine (spelling?) loading 6 in his musket once... so... anyway...
If anyone else wants to chime in about the tenons etc... go for it.

Sam Everly

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Re: Stick welding tenons ok?
« Reply #5 on: March 22, 2009, 02:43:11 AM »
Well i am with Pete and Jerry on this one i would say you have made a tight spot each place you made a weld and you have a warped barrel . Been there done that , I tryed to salvage a barrel some one messed up many years ago. I welded up two dove tails with my tig welder and !!! junk that barrel anyway . I just had to try. Let me say this for the money, go ahead and buy Chuck Dixons book on gun building. it will be more help than anything you will ever buy . It shows you each step , and will keep you from finding out the hard way . The first rifle i built , i used it .I was 16 years old and the rifle turned out very  nice . Now close to 35 years later ,i owe everything to that book . If i had not had it, the gun would have been a mess and i might never have built another rifle . Get the book , get another barrel and learn from this .     

Offline Acer Saccharum

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Re: Stick welding tenons ok?
« Reply #6 on: March 22, 2009, 04:57:08 PM »
Jimmy, welcome to the ALR.

There is a good chance you may have messed up your barrel. Before you go any farther, push a snug patched ball down the bore to see how it passes the welded spots. If it glides thru with even tension, then the barrel is probably OK. If you have tight spots where the welds are, then it is junk. Please let us know how it goes.

There is a search feature on the board where you can look up any gunbuilding subject of your heart's desire. You will also find that individuals have their own method to do a simple task, most often with simple tools. "Search" is found at the top of the page, just under the ALR riifle logo.
http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?action=search

Also cruise the "Tutorial" section, just for insights into how to approach a task.
http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?board=9.0

When you get to a sticky situation, please don't hesitate to ask before you proceed. A simple question and answer posting can save you hours of frustration.

Again, welcome to the ALR.

Tom
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Ramrod scrapers are all sold out.

Offline JCKelly

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Re: Stick welding tenons ok?
« Reply #7 on: March 22, 2009, 07:36:03 PM »
4130 1/4" wall throughout, .75 caliber?  Sounds like 1-1/4" O.D. 4130 "seamless" tube. Question now is, what thread size & how did you fit the breechplug in this tube? A 7/8 x 9 thread plug, 13/16" tap drill, leaves a 3/16" wall containinng a sharp notch.  4130, presumably annealed, is tough stuff. Still, that 3/16" wall with the thread notch in it is a mite on the thin side to repeatedly hold the ~11 tons of force you might get on that plug, if bore pressures are only 10,000 psi. Yes, I know others don't have the least concern with such thin breeches even in a screw stock barrel. But if it were me about to shoot it, I'd stock up on Depends(R) first.

Jimmy0

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Re: Stick welding tenons ok?
« Reply #8 on: March 22, 2009, 08:45:10 PM »
Thanks all for the warm welcome, i really appreaciate it, and am glad to be here.
i've waited a long time to find a gunbuilding forum. Even though this place has the word "Longrifle" in the title, i saw some non LR stuff in here so i figured it was ok to post about this.

I did like was said, and ran a ball several times down the barrel, it went smoothely every time, no warpage. Also i did a VIP on the barrel (LOL not hard to do at .75 calibur.) and it looked clear as crystal, light showing even all the way around, no warpage... so i think this barrel is ok, but mind you i will most likely use the solder/concave underlug method in the future. I will do further proofing soon.

As for this:
4130 1/4" wall throughout, .75 caliber?  Sounds like 1-1/4" O.D. 4130 "seamless" tube. Question now is, what thread size & how did you fit the breechplug in this tube? A 7/8 x 9 thread plug, 13/16" tap drill, leaves a 3/16" wall containinng a sharp notch.  4130, presumably annealed, is tough stuff. Still, that 3/16" wall with the thread notch in it is a mite on the thin side to repeatedly hold the ~11 tons of force you might get on that plug, if bore pressures are only 10,000 psi. Yes, I know others don't have the least concern with such thin breeches even in a screw stock barrel. But if it were me about to shoot it, I'd stock up on Depends(R) first.

Hmm... thanks for the input JC i just don't quite understand why you think that is too thin. 3/16" is .1875
which is about four sizes above 1/8" which is .1250
Especially for black powder. Yes you're correct about the tube i'm using, that's exactly the size/type of barrel... but the breachplug i've got in it, is 7/8" X 14 TPI which was a close guess.

I mean, if i were to have gotten a thicker barrel, the average person wouldn't be able to HOLD IT lmao! I put this barrel on the stock i cut out, and my arms were shaking under the strain as it was (hopefully that will change once the stock is 100% inletted *crosses fingers*).

Also to further reinforce my barrels will be more than thick enough, i have a barrel i bought from Getz Barrel Co. back in about '99 and his barrel is *much* thinner at the breech than mine is, and he used the same breechplug: 7/8" x 14 TPI and if i were to take a wild guess, i'd say the metal that was used in that barrel was a lesser/less expensive steel than 4130.

and not only that, but it's my understanding that most "Brown Bess" replicas w/ the .75 cal barrels are thinner at the breech too... so anyway... i personally feel IMO i made the correct choice on the thickness/breechplug.

Thanks for all the input guys!

Offline Dphariss

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Re: Stick welding tenons ok?
« Reply #9 on: March 22, 2009, 10:29:57 PM »
Hey there guys, i've recently gotten into the gunmaking scene after about 10 years of study/practice off and on, and i've nearly got my first gun made, but the part that has me stumped the most, is attaching the tenons...

In all honesty, i didn't realize this would be such an issue, i thought it would be one of the least hard aspects of gunmaking. I tried dovetailing them on, but it seemed too time consuming, and somewhat impractical for me (i was planning on doing THREE tenons, if not more) and i was not especially good at dovetailing, in the end, i decided to use this method of tenon attachment as a last resort... then i thought of the engine hoist i welded together from scratch recently, why not weld them on?

And so i cut a few pieces of A36 1" x 1/8" x 1/2" and welded one of these "tenons" in the middle, then one six inches further down, then a last one, six more inches further down (about 4 - 5" from the muzzle) but the problem is... the welds are very VERY ugly, and crude looking, but very strong... but i got to worrying... in the process of welding, a few shallow, small indentations no deeper than 1/8" have managed to "burn" out of the barrel, near the weld areas, would these, and the welds in general, of course... weaken the barrel structure any? Or am i just being paranoid? Does anyone else have experience at welding tenons on? This barrel is made of 4130 steel, about 41 inches long, and 1/4" thick throughout the length, and .75 calibur

On a side note... i really didn't want to have to manipulate the barrel AT ALL to attach it to the stock, but doing so, no matter what method i could read about/think of, seemed inevitable. The exception being barrel bands, which are not remotely correct for this period firearm (medieval matchlock).
Anyway before the welding, the barrel performed great at the range, using the tire/fuse method to test, i tested 100 grain ffg charge w/ buck and ball, and a few "normal"  shots of about 85 gr ffg, i'll test using other more advanced methods later.
Thanks for reading, and any help will be appreciated!

If you already welded it help is a little late. VERY poor idea.
Installing loops is so easy I can't imagine welding on a gun barrel ::)
Bore damage, possible hard spots etc etc.

Dan
He who dares not offend cannot be honest. Thomas Paine

Offline Dphariss

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Re: Stick welding tenons ok?
« Reply #10 on: March 23, 2009, 01:59:04 AM »
One more thing welding on modern (4140 or other typical gun barrel alloys) barrels is considered to make them unsafe to shoot.
Now it is possible to weld a piece on a barrel to "stretch it" in restoration etc,  BPCR or ML etc and then bore and LINE it and have a shootable barrel. But in this case the welded barrel is not considered structural. The liner becomes the barrel.
While it is possible to weld almost any gun part using proper equipment the barrel is not one of the weldable parts. Arc welding tends to put a LOT of stress  on the steel and will actually pull it into a different shape, i.e. it warps the steel.
While I am not trained in such things I would suspect that arc welding a 4140 or such barrel would result in a hard and/or brittle spot in the barrel. Not something you really want containing shock and pressure.
There are ceremonial M1 Garands, for example, that have had the receiver and barrel welded at the receiver ring. These are only considered safe for blank fire ceremonial use and are not to be used for firing ball ammunition.
IMO you just made the barrel into pistol barrel material, cutting an inch or 2 each side of the welds.
Dan
He who dares not offend cannot be honest. Thomas Paine

Offline JCKelly

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Re: Stick welding tenons ok?
« Reply #11 on: March 23, 2009, 02:31:37 AM »
Arc welding does make 4140 very brittle.
In general, one can get by arc welding 4130. Without looking it up I don't recall if preheat is necessary. 4130 tubing is used for welded construction in race car frames.

Anecdote: About 1971 I worked for the only honest military contractor in the US, Bowen-McLaughlin York. There are things called "lifting eyes", made by bending a 1" dia bar of 4130 into a U-shape and welding it to the mobile gun, armored personnel carrier or tank.
One day a guy running the fork lift saw a lifting eye fly off when he hit it. Told boss, info worked its way up to our Quality Guy. Mr Quality learned that our Esteemed Supplier had sent us 4140, not 4130. Happens that 4140 gets too brittle for use if welded without heat treatment. Mr. Q sent them back to Esteemed Supplier. Esteemed sent us the same confounded parts 4140 parts again. Mr. Q returned them one last time to Esteemed Supplier, with complaint. Esteemed Suppler said no problem, I will just ship these to Chrysler Tank Command in Warren, Michigan.
Now I don't really know that he did. But I do recall hearing about an M60 (is that right designation?) tank that fell through several floors of the transport ship when it fell from the crane. Golly Ned, wonder why it broke loose.

Offline D. Taylor Sapergia

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Re: Stick welding tenons ok?
« Reply #12 on: March 23, 2009, 03:12:17 AM »
Jimmy, I'm happy that you have found this forum, and are asking questions - especially about safety.  My advice to you after over 40 years of building muzzle loaders, is to listen carefully to what we are telling you. 
It is not just MY opinion.  You have destroyed that barrel.  Start again.  Learn to cut shallow dovetails, ie:  less than 1/16" deep. 
Live long and prosper.  And listen carefully to the answers to your questions.
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Birddog6

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Re: Stick welding tenons ok?
« Reply #13 on: March 23, 2009, 03:32:15 AM »
JimmyO:  I am going to be to the point.  We are most happy to have you here, but would like You to remain safe & others around you to be safe,  so.......

First of all, it appears you are in a field you know nothing about (making barrels), so the safest for anyone around that rifle when it goes off is for you to get out of the barrel making business & buy one already made..  Welding on barrels is Strictly a no-no.. >:(
And since your welds are ugly (as you state) that tells me you also know nothing about welding either, let alone making a barrel, so that makes it a Double No-No... >:(.  You are a prime candidate for disaster if you continue with this project as you are doing it.

Second,   You are talking about testing a barrel with hard spots in it. I know it has hard spots because welding on that steel made hard spots.  You can make all the assumptions & speculations you want but it is fact.  Hard spots in a barrel mean disaster.........

Third,  What if you finish this gun & it tests OK. But it is internally fractured & you don't know it.  Sure it passed the test THAT time, but what about the 49th time it is shot iith internal fractures in it ?  What if something happens to you & someone else get s it & it blows up ?   Someone could get severely injured  or die just because you wanted to play barrel maker.....

Fourth, Doing dovetails on a barrel is probably one of the Easiest things to do in building a rifle, and after you have done a few it takes less time to do 4 underlugs than it does to make 4 lugs & weld them on.  You practice doing a few & then you just do it.  First 4 I did took me 20 min each.  Now I can do 4 in 15 min.  I could dang near do one with my eyes closed now, as it takes me 8 licks with a hacksaw each cut & about 7-8 cuts, side cut them, file them, tap the dovetail in & I'm done. It is part of gun building.

Five,  Cutting corners to save time is not gun building.  It is disaster building & unfortunately someone else always pays the price & it is usually a innocent bystander.

Now, all of that being said, suck it up, you screwed up, now go buy a barrel & a Builders Book & build it right......   ;)

Now right now some of you are thinking  "Wow, that was a little harsh."  Well, if I made my point, it was worth it.  This gun building is not   a game to be taken lightly......

« Last Edit: March 23, 2009, 03:36:52 AM by Birddog6 »

Jimmy0

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Re: Stick welding tenons ok?
« Reply #14 on: March 23, 2009, 05:11:17 AM »
JimmyO:  I am going to be to the point. 

Uh oh... classical excuse to behave badly a forum... *braces hisself*

First of all, it appears you are in a field you know nothing about (making barrels)

"Hey there guys, i've recently gotten into the gunmaking scene after about 10 YEARS of study/practice off and on"

so the safest for anyone around that rifle when it goes off is for you to get out of the barrel making business & buy one already made.. 

Sorry man, not a chance. everything was going good with this barrel till the perceived danger of the welds... and opinions obviously DO vary on that - which is why i came here.
The breeching etc turned out great... why on earth would i pay $265 for a .75 barrel that uses inferior steel, and is nearly as thin as sheet metal... i would feel ALOT safer with one i make, if anything. I even read of a replica Brown Bess replica musket blowing up on a reenactor recently. Let's not forget about a couple of the CVA barrels rupturing.

Welding on barrels is Strictly a no-no.. >:(

What are you basing this on exactly? I have actually heard of sights being welded to SMOKELESS powder barrels, nevermind blackpowder... mind you, they're never at the breech (mine are about 20" away from the breech)

And since your welds are ugly (as you state) that tells me you also know nothing about welding either.

pure SMAW welding is pretty "ugly" by nature, it mildly depends on the circumstances. I ought to upload a pic... they're not as bad as you're thinking, i'm sure.

let alone making a barrel, so that makes it a Double No-No... >:(.  You are a prime candidate for disaster if you continue with this project as you are doing it.

Second,   You are talking about testing a barrel with hard spots in it. I know it has hard spots because welding on that steel made hard spots.  You can make all the assumptions & speculations you want but it is fact.  Hard spots in a barrel mean disaster.........

Third,  What if you finish this gun & it tests OK. But it is internally fractured & you don't know it.  Sure it passed the test THAT time, but what about the 49th time it is shot iith internal fractures in it ?  What if something happens to you & someone else get s it & it blows up ?   Someone could get severely injured  or die just because you wanted to play barrel maker.....

...I've taken all this into consideration, Birddog6. I was going to perform a test a little more sophisticated than the overload etc. If the gunsmiths in history - present day had this defeatist mentality, guns would have never been made. and probably, alot of other trades would have never succeeded.

I didn't "make" the barrel ... a professional company "made" it. I'm merely breeching it, and did three superficial welds on it that probably don't even go past 1/16" ...and no... the barrel is not warped. Lol... to those who keep saying that, actually try warping a 1/4" thick barrel with a low voltage welder...

Now, all of that being said, suck it up, you screwed up, now go buy a barrel & a Builders Book & build it right......   ;)
Now right now some of you are thinking  "Wow, that was a little harsh."  Well, if I made my point, it was worth it.

Actually... trying to prove your point like a Hillbilly with a complete absence of social skills is never really worth it. There's really not much of a purpose to it, besides betraying your own deficiencies. You'd fit in real well where i live, Bird. Behaving like this to someone you don't know from Adam, who of which, only two posts or so you've read betrays ALOT more about you than it does about me.

Anyway... excuse my ranting and raving, but on alot of forums, there's always 1 or 2 people who jump on the new member, and start some others bandwagoning.

In all honesty i don't really care about barrel welding anymore anyway now that i found out about other methods of attaching tenons.

Thanks to most of the others who posted, i appreciate it.

Birddog6

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Re: Stick welding tenons ok?
« Reply #15 on: March 23, 2009, 05:36:12 AM »
Quote

Anyway... excuse my ranting and raving, but on alot of forums, there's always 1 or 2 people who jump on the new member, and start some others bandwagoning.

In all honesty I don't really care about barrel welding anymore anyway now that i found out about other methods of attaching tenons.

I don't care if you did 1 post or 400 posts, I would have said the same to Anyone else on here that welded underlugs on with a stick welder.  Just because you are new doesn't excuse you  when you are doing something unsafe. 
Some of the others were trying to nicely steer you the other way, but apparantly you just have this uncontrollable urge to get in the Darwin Awards.  And I think you will make it.   ;D

Offline bob in the woods

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Re: Stick welding tenons ok?
« Reply #16 on: March 23, 2009, 05:54:18 AM »
Welcome to the forum Jimmy. I know from your last post, that you have taken some of the replies a "little " hard. Don't do it. Everyone that I have seen post on this board is to my way of thinking, totally into sharing the best of what they know, and it's free for the taking!   Trust me..the replies you got have nothing to do with you being new to this forum; If you had a thousand posts..you would have heard the same thing. I'm self taught, so I don't do some things the same way, or use the same methods in my work as some do. That's OK for a lot of the gun building process, as I see it, however..
when it comes to safety, I would think long and hard before I went against the advice from the guys here.  :) 

Offline Dphariss

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Re: Stick welding tenons ok?
« Reply #17 on: March 23, 2009, 05:51:42 PM »
JimmyO

You must understand that EVERYONE screws up at some point and that its an ongoing process.
A year or so ago I turned a nice piece of hard curly maple into something for carving practice and maybe a hatchet handle or 2. I started stocking MLs in the 1960s so I am supposed to "know how". I did something I could not "fix", pretty rare but.....
"It" happens.
I have done damage to other peoples guns, I used to do repair work on 18th and 19th century stuff but was able to fix it after the urge for head bashing had subsided.
I saw a normally  very careful individual put a screw driver between the throughbolt head and the side of the hole on a customers original 1878 Sharps stock and break a pretty large pointed "eruption" in the side of the buttstock.
I know a very competent gunsmith with a piece of cardboard on the wall with 3 or 4 broken mainsprings glued too it, all hand made and ready to install, with $#*&!!! written under each one. These represent about a days careful work turned to scrap iron.
Barrels crushed in vises, vintage shotgun barrels filed/polished just a little too thin during "cleanup" of some pits, I just heard rumors of this one. The guy is way beyond "competent".
Trust me you are not alone.
WE HAVE ALL BTDT. Some are easy fixes, a few are catastrophic.

It is very difficult to convey body language and compassion or even humor through a keyboard.
Sometimes people here are perhaps a little blunt. If you screw up they may say so. But back in the day I suspect the masters were not always concerned with hurting an apprentices feelings over some obvious (to them) boneheaded mistake. But you will learn from it in any case.



This site is a wonderful resource. But along with the help you may get some information or see photos that might bruise your ego.
Just looking at some of the work being done by others makes me humble.
You will find a wide range of opinion here on almost anything from stock finishes to how to inlet a lock. People tend to find what works for them and think its the "way" and for them it is. But someone else learned another way and thus you will have to different approaches to the same end.
But there are some things that are just not done. Welding barrels is one. High temp silver solder is usually OK for most alloys, soft solder works, even brazing works for some things and some steels. But welding is taboo for reasons already stated.
Unfortunately you found out the hard way.
I wish you had posted the question BEFORE welding. But that is water under the bridge.
So you may either abandon the project or order another barrel. But get a swamp or taper, it will reduce the weight and is surely historically correct and likely be safer.
Newcomers are more than welcome here. But when the newcomer does not like the answers then things can get difficult.

Never, ever, use "seamless", DOM or welded tubing for gun barrels. It is not safe regardless of alloy. Gun barrels are subject to far different stress than the various drawn tubes were designed for. The manufacturing process actually makes the material unsafe no matter the alloy. If tubing made safe barrels arms makers would not go though the complicated processes being used.
When metallurgists start talking about characteristics of materials for high pressure applications you really need to listen.
 I don't know of any arms maker welding barrels. Most sights and lugs are dovetailed, screwed, staked or silver brazed on barrels in modern arms making. Its FAR easier to clean up the joint than if welded. So you might want to look at the "welding" you have heard about and see if its arc welded or "welded" by brazing.  I know of a maker of 1911 pistol barrels that was/is brazing lugs on barrels but its not the same or even close to the same process. If they WERE welding on barrels they have the advantage of KNOWING the process and adding preheats or heat treatment to the process to prevent problems.

The bottom line is this. Asking a question will generate an answer. It is possible, as sometimes happens here, that the answer will not be what is expected and might be unpalatable to the person posing the question. This is obviously the case here.
You may either accept the collective wisdom here, or not.
It is very likely the import Bess that failed with a BLANK was a tubing barrel.
BP operates at low pressure, by modern firearms standards, but by any other standard it is high pressure and it shock loads the container as well. If the container fails the results are often very "impressive" both in damage to the firearm and the shooter. So picking up just any piece of material for a barrel can have serious consequences. It is impossible to proof a barrel made of the wrong material and "prove" it is safe. It could easily fail with the next shot with a service load.
Proving simply "finds" gross imperfections in the material. It will not "find" the inclusions and minor imperfections that can produce failures in service. This is why steel used for barrels needs to be high quality with limited inclusions and flaws. Unless "gun barrel quality" or better it should not be used for barrels regardless of alloy since it may contain unacceptable levels of inclusions or even hidden cracks and fissures. Nor does "gun barrel" quality, indicate the alloy is suitable for gun barrels, its a QUALITY LEVEL.
While not related to ML directly...
416 Stainless is proving to be a "problem" in modern gun barrels, firearms made from this material are failing for no reason with factory ammunition. A big name maker of custom barrels does not recommend recontouring their stainless barrels or even using them at temps under 0 F.
See http://www.kriegerbarrels.com/Calibers__Prices-c1246-wp3390.htm
Sako has recalled a number of stainless steel rifles starting in 2004. But it was kept pretty quiet.

Remington was sued in the 1990s over using the wrong steel it shotgun barrels and lost. A number of Remington's shotguns with 1140M steel barrels burst and people were seriously injured. On paper the steel is far stronger than needed and the barrels were proved. But the steel work hardens and gets brittle.

Barrel steel choice is serious business for ANY firearm.
But few people seem realize this when ML arms are the subject. Its something that is often learned through personal tragedy.

Dan
He who dares not offend cannot be honest. Thomas Paine

Offline JCKelly

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Re: Stick welding tenons ok?
« Reply #18 on: March 23, 2009, 06:17:55 PM »
Agree never use seamless tubing. In my limited experience (1018 carbon steel, 310 [25%Cr 20%Ni] stainless, and an odd heat resisting alloy) seamless tubing can have some of the worst seams in it. Those seams are on the bore side, hard to find in inspection. Welded tubing only has the advantage that you know where it will fail.

Remington's steel had lousy fatigue properties, meaning it can crack at a notch after maybe 100,000 rounds. No problem for the hunter, bad for skeet shooters. I thought it was 1137Mod? Knew the retired metallurgical professor who, along with an intelligent lawyer, convinced them to improve matters. In muzzle loading barrels 1137M is the best steel that is used; at least it is far, far superior to the screw stock most use.

AISI 12L14 screw stock has the brittle failure problems at 70F that 416 does at 0F.

Most common reason to blow a barrel with black powder, in my experience, is to load the ball off the powder. A contemporary lawyer might reasonably call that a "forseeable misuse". I would say, meaning someone is gonna do it no matter the warnings, so the barrel steel must be capable of bulging, not shattering into pieces. That sort of thing has been known since the 1870's, when people had just begun to mess around with steel shotgun barrels. With decent steel the barrel only rings & needs replaced. With very weak steel, or brittle steel containing a seam, the barrel can shatter with unpleasant effects on the shooter.


Offline rich pierce

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Re: Stick welding tenons ok?
« Reply #19 on: March 23, 2009, 06:30:13 PM »
Everybody here is looking out for your safety, whether they are posting in a gentle manner or not..  You might very well get away with it, but you might also get away with putting out a match in a 55 gallon drum of gasoline with 5 gallons of gas in it.  To reach far enough down in there you'll need to get your head and shoulders in too.  If it works and the fumes don't light before you get the match submerged, it was a good trick and you can say, "Told you it wasn't risky!"

The hardest problem in asking for advice is receiving it.
Andover, Vermont

Offline Dennis Glazener

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Re: Stick welding tenons ok?
« Reply #20 on: March 23, 2009, 06:32:42 PM »
Ok guys remember our rules! This forum is intended to educate members and not a place to embarrass members.
Dennis
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"I never considered a difference of opinion in politics, in religion, in philosophy, as cause for withdrawing from a friend" - Thomas Jefferson

J.D.

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Re: Stick welding tenons ok?
« Reply #21 on: March 23, 2009, 06:49:13 PM »
JimmyO,

I'm not an expert on gunbarrels, steel, or welding, however, most of the people who responded to your question are very experienced gunsmiths, welders, barrel makers, engineers, or what have you. In short, they know what they are talking about.

Though some folks, on this forum, can be rather brash...brash $#*!, some can be down right abrasive, they know their stuff. And sometimes, it takes an abrasive attitude to get through to someone who has already made up their mind.

I, too, have the impression that you feel that you know as much,or more, as those who responded to your post. If you truly knew what you  were doing, you would not have welded the under lugs to the barrel, in the first place.

Now, suck up your ego and buy a new barrel and do it right. Taking the advise of those who DO know what they are talking about will save you  a lot of remorse, regret, and possibly your life, or someone else's life when that barrel blows.

Welcome to the forum, BTW. I suggest that you spend lots of time reading the archives, on this site, as well as the old site. There is literally a lifetime's worth  of knowledge contained in those postings. 

And please do take the advise of the very knowledgeable people who post on this forum. Abrasive attitudes or not, the folks here do truly care about your welfare and safety.

God bless,
J.D.
« Last Edit: March 23, 2009, 06:52:03 PM by J.D. »

Offline P.W.Berkuta

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Re: Stick welding tenons ok?
« Reply #22 on: March 23, 2009, 07:15:02 PM »
OH, I also would bet money on it --- :'( :'(
I would just about bet money that the barrel is warped now.
"The person who says it cannot be done should not interrupt the person who is doing it." - Chinese proverb

Offline Acer Saccharum

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Re: Stick welding tenons ok?
« Reply #23 on: March 23, 2009, 07:29:14 PM »
Most of the replies here are concerned with safety, your safety....and the shooter next to you. Some of us have an easier manner than others, but the bottom line is safety.

Selfishly, I don't want to hear of another tragedy that could have been easily avoided, nor do I want to read any more bad press against guns.

Play safe.

Acer
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Ramrod scrapers are all sold out.

George F.

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Re: Stick welding tenons ok?
« Reply #24 on: March 23, 2009, 07:50:20 PM »
I'm sorry, but I can't help myself, and I would just like to add this. About 90% of the members here are self taught. They bring with them years of experience by working through their mistakes, and asking for help when they run into a new problem. Our ages are varied, from twenty to 90. A lot of us are retired. We bring our present and past vocations with us. Some are professionals who sit at a desk, while others are the ones with working knowledge as machinists, plumbers, carpenters, factory workers, a lot have engineering degrees, and metalurgy knowledge. Heck, we even have a part time dentist, who's work will leave you in awe. We have a few that do precious metal inlays on barrels, locks and other metal parts. The skill levels here will quickly humble a beginner.If you are truly smitten with the flintlock, then that's the first step. Don't let a mistake due to ignorance give you a bad taste of what we offer each other. Ignorance is the lack of not knowing.  We welcome you, and all others that want to learn by others mistakes, to allow each of us to expand our skills and knowledge, and to ease us into making a good safe product that we as individuals, will be proud of making. 
« Last Edit: March 23, 2009, 07:53:19 PM by George F. »