Author Topic: Mr. Sapergia (Read 11788 times)

Billy Mike · « **on:** March 21, 2016, 06:38:13 AM »

Mr. Sapergia, I have read your Hawken stuff thread a few times now. I bought a Jedediah Starr full stock Hawken kit and am in the process of assembling it.

Here's where I am so far:

If I'm following your method correctly, i believe it's time to add the trigger guard. But I may be wrong. The trigger set is pinned and the pins are polished. Is it a good idea to push out the pins to polish the triggers?

Bob Roller · « **Reply #1 on:** March 21, 2016, 01:27:23 PM »

Billy Mike,
Be SURE the rear trigger is SET before you install the guard. If you don't set it,
there will be moaning and groaning and a repair job waiting or maybe replacing the trigger
itself.

Bob Roller

Bob Roller · « **Reply #2 on:** March 21, 2016, 01:45:08 PM »

Billy Mike,
The reason I answered a question to another maker is that it's 6:41AM ere in WV and 2:41 in Western Canada where Taylor lives.

Bob Roller

Billy Mike · « **Reply #3 on:** March 21, 2016, 03:25:15 PM »

Bob, quite allright. All knowledge and any help is much appreciated.

I don't understand the advice given, however.

Do you mean the rear set trigger must be at the high point of it's travel? Is this from experience you've had with this particular kit or just building in general?

Acer Saccharum · « **Reply #4 on:** March 21, 2016, 04:36:07 PM »

I'm of the opinion that you will want to be able to take the triggers out on occasion. For maintenance, cleaning, adjustment of the rear trigger main spring, etc.

David Rase · « **Reply #5 on:** March 21, 2016, 04:51:18 PM »

Billy Mike,
If you are asking if you should disassemble the trigger assembly to polish the individual components, the answer is yes, at least for me. I always polish the components individually. If you are asking something different than I apologize for not understanding your question.
David

Billy Mike · « **Reply #6 on:** March 21, 2016, 05:06:59 PM »

What I'm hearing is a resounding yes, take them out and clean and polish them up. Here's two pics showing the pins on both sides of the plate.

Any special instructions or warnings?

tlallijr · « **Reply #7 on:** March 21, 2016, 05:37:08 PM »

Billy Mike, I think what Bob Roller is saying is don't forget to have the rear trigger set when you align the triggers in the bow to mark for attaching the guard. Other wise you may not leave enough room to set the trigger.

Bob Roller · « **Reply #8 on:** March 21, 2016, 07:08:38 PM »

Quote from: tlallijr on March 21, 2016, 05:37:08 PM

Billy Mike, I think what Bob Roller is saying is don't forget to have the rear trigger set when you align the triggers in the bow to mark for attaching the guard. Other wise you may not leave enough room to set the trigger.

Right on. I think I should wait until afternoon to make posts.

Bob Roller

Don Stith · « **Reply #9 on:** March 21, 2016, 08:45:53 PM »

We all have our own way of doing things so I'll throw out a tip on the trigger/trigger guard
I prefer to attach the guard to the long Hawken bar before inletting the trigger unit. It makes for a nice handle while taking the triggers in and out during inletting.
Just works easier for me

Billy Mike · « **Reply #10 on:** March 21, 2016, 09:18:11 PM »

Acer, Bob, David, Don, tlallijr, Thanks guys for the valuable input, I need it and actually do hang on every word.

The stock is fully inletted, except for the toe plate. There was very little left to do except for the lock channel. And there wasn't that much there either, I am just so green i didn't know what to look for or how to look. I'm not quite as green now. The lock fits and all the way down to the edge of the channel.

Don, that idea is a really good one about attaching the trigger guard for something to grip, that's using your noggin there bud.

Joe S. · « **Reply #11 on:** March 21, 2016, 09:49:07 PM »

Billy Mike maybe you could shoot a few pics of your lock panel and forend ect. and post them and I'm sure Taylor and these fine folks will let your know if your going to need to slender things up abit before you get to finish stage.Little hard to see from a distance.

Billy Mike · « **Reply #12 on:** March 21, 2016, 10:01:04 PM »

Quote from: Joe S. on March 21, 2016, 09:49:07 PM

Billy Mike maybe you could shoot a few pics of your lock panel and forend ect. and post them and I'm sure Taylor and these fine folks will let your know if your going to need to slender things up abit before you get to finish stage.Little hard to see from a distance.

Joe, for sure there's a lot of wood left to remove. I'm not very handy with that camera or any camera. Those are from a few feet, maybe 4 feet at the most. It's a small shop.

But I will read up on that and get to it. I know that pics are invaluable and better than a thousand words. Maybe 10,000. And lord knows I need the expertise of all you good, highly skilled and experienced folks.

Billy Mike · « **Reply #13 on:** March 21, 2016, 10:32:21 PM »

Ok, that was easy enough and i believe I may have done it without any damage.

So I guess i should proceed with some emery cloth or some such?

Referring to Mr. Sapergia's thread it seems i should end with 600 grit.

Daryl · « **Reply #14 on:** March 21, 2016, 11:03:49 PM »

Taylor is away for a few more days - but "the Boys" have handled your question very well, I am sure.

Billy Mike · « **Reply #15 on:** March 21, 2016, 11:06:38 PM »

Quote from: Daryl on March 21, 2016, 11:03:49 PM

Taylor is away for a few more days - but "the Boys" have handled your question very well, I am sure.

I couldn't agree more. everyone has been very helpful.

Billy Mike · « **Reply #16 on:** March 26, 2016, 01:41:20 AM »

Here's my latest issue, should this hump be filed evenly?

JCurtiss · « **Reply #17 on:** March 26, 2016, 02:07:22 AM »

Is it me, or is there something conspicuously absent from the above post?

Billy Mike · « **Reply #18 on:** March 26, 2016, 02:09:53 AM »

Quote from: JCurtiss on March 26, 2016, 02:07:22 AM

Is it me, or is there something conspicuously absent from the above post?

Are you talking about the picture? I can see it, but I can't tell if you can, let me know.

Billy Mike · « **Reply #19 on:** March 26, 2016, 04:52:56 AM »

Quote from: JCurtiss on March 26, 2016, 02:07:22 AM

Is it me, or is there something conspicuously absent from the above post?

Ok, i logged in on my tablet, and i can't see it. i'll sort this out.

sorry folks.

Billy Mike · « **Reply #20 on:** March 28, 2016, 05:00:16 AM »

Hope this works. The casting seam is uneven. Hopefully you can see the larger hump on the left. It's the front trigger. Should I file that even with the other one?

Billy Mike · « **Reply #21 on:** April 01, 2016, 01:39:36 PM »

After 5 days, I can still see the above picture.

Considering the rapid responses i got before, I can only assume i've done something wrong.

Would someone do me a favor and tell me what that might be?

Thanks most kindly for your attention and time.

Chris Treichel · « **Reply #22 on:** April 01, 2016, 01:55:05 PM »

I see your picture... and if that was my trigger I would take a nice Arkansas knife sharpening stone and polish the top part of the trigger and any other place where it wears against another part until it looks like a mirror.

Billy Mike · « **Reply #23 on:** April 01, 2016, 02:02:28 PM »

Thank you most kindly Chris. I will do that.

I still wonder about the little hump that looks to be caused from casting at the top of the picture of the trigger. You can see the casting seam and the slight difference in protrusion of that area of the trigger.

WadePatton · « **Reply #24 on:** April 01, 2016, 03:33:34 PM »

Quote from: Billy Mike on April 01, 2016, 02:02:28 PM

Thank you most kindly Chris. I will do that.

I still wonder about the little hump that looks to be caused from casting at the top of the picture of the trigger. You can see the casting seam and the slight difference in protrusion of that area of the trigger.

I'm not one to leave any evidence of casting, anywhere. I don't think seams and gates are part of the utility of the mould maker's design for the finished work, and don't exist on the original part when a replication.

BUT I don't know your trigger exactly and can't make that call on it from here.

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Author Topic: Mr. Sapergia (Read 11788 times)

JCurtiss