Inlay Pins Again

[ptk1126]

Will a propane torch generate enough heat to bead one end of  brass and german silver nails
so I can peen in a head forming plate ??

Thanks
Paul

[Acer Saccharum]

Personally, I would go for cold forming. Anneal the wire first.

Once brass or german silver is heated to red heat and then cooled, the metal will be soft. Drop the wire into the header plate, or hold in the vise, and peen a head on the end of the wire.

If you try to form a molten blob with brass, you may burn off zinc(toxic) and the metal may change its workability tremendously. It might become crystalline and crumbly.

Silver and gold can be successfully beaded up with a torch.

But when in doubt, experiment. What have you got to lose? a 1/2" piece of wire? Try it out.

[Frank]

I just buy some solid brass brads at the local hardware store. They already have heads on them and I just peen them in a forming plate. May cost 50 cents for a hundred.

[rdillon]

You can buy German Silver pins from Muzzleloader Builder Supply if you want an easier way out.  I used to buy them but now I make all my own.  I get my brass and silver stock from Jewelry Supply.  Lots of sites online to compare prices.

[ptk1126]

Thanks for the replies.

I have the silver nails from MBS but they are about twice the size I need. I was thinking of chucking them in my dremel
and filing them down a little, then peening them in a head forming plate. A bit tedious as I need about 30 silver pins and
50 brass.

All the best
Paul

[Acer Saccharum]

If you have a draw plate, you can pull wire down to any size you need.

For you, ptk, I'd get wire of the right size, cut it to length, and make heads on the wire. Filing down nails sounds drudgery.

[ptk1126]

I have a draw plate left over from the days of scratch building wood sailing ship models but am not sure it would
work on wire.

Regarding a head forming plate, would it make sense to drill the shank diameter hole in the plate only to the
depth equaling the desired length of the shank so that the wire has a bottom to assist in peening the head ?

I did find a relatively inexpensive place to buy the appropriate size (16-20-22 gauge brass and german silver)
wire to experiment with.

Thanks
Paul

[Acer Saccharum]

Possible tool suggestion:

Use a plate as thick as your nail is long. Countersink one side to form the kind of head you want.

Put a backup plate underneath, to keep the shank from going thru while you peen the head. Then you can poke the nail out from the bottom.

[Frank]

I use a piece of steel angle iron about 1/4 inch thick. Drill a hole the same diameter as the brass brads and countersink. Clamp the angle iron in your vice and you can peen the head of the brass brad. Use the same countersink on your inlay so it matches the peened head.

[ptk1126]

Thanks again to all. I have been on the forum several years and am always impressed with the
willingness of the members to help others.

Acer - duh ! Thanks for that tip as I overlooked how the heck I would easily get the nails out after forming.

All the best
Paul

[Acer Saccharum]

Paul, I make so many 'Duhs', I'm glad someone else makes one once in a while.

[Dphariss]

Or anneal the head on the tapered nail and drive it into a slightly under size hole in the inlay with a light hammer.
It done with a light hammer and many light blows  this will often swell the head enough.
OR more likely the taper on the nail will lock it to the inlay and no oversize head is needed.  This is best way to do it. Takes careful sizing of the hole to everything cleans up and the nail get deep enough but not so deep it penetrates to some place its not wanted. Square nails and round holes will work OK too.

Dan

[Don Getz]

I have a question.   What are you using these "nails" for?    Are they to be used to hold in silver inlays, such as the ones
on the Mose Specht rifle I have shown.   I replaced seven of the silver inlays on that rifle, and they are all held in with
steel, or iron, nails, just like the originals were done.  If you look closely at the inlays on the wrist, you can see the nails.
I drill a hole, about .040 big, then take a small brad and taper it about 3/8" long.  You then drive this tapered pin in until
it tightens up, cut it off, and file it flat with the inlay...no need to put a head on the nail..........Don

[Longshot]

Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.  Thank you, Don.