Crack repair starts with checking to see if it will close completely. If so then carefully wax to stock to within about 1/8" of the crack. The spread the crack if possible and apply something like Elmers Carpenter Gule or Tite-bond etc into the crack. Hypodermic syringe and blunted needles are great for this. Once you have enough glue in clamp it shut. I like surgical tubing for this. About a 3-4 foot piece will squeeze a wrist shut. Wrap it on pretty snug as many wraps as you can stretching the tube a little as you wrap.
But this stuff can bend or break things so don't wrap over trigger guard bows/rails etc. Also go easy around lock mortises.
If the crack will not spread at all you may have to drill into the crack from a hidden spot and inject glue like that. Small holes, just bigger than the needle.
Let to glue set over night. Now remove the tubing and clean up.
Drill from the tang mortise to about 2-3" past the crack with a 1/2 to 5/16" drill (get and extended length drill), down the length of the wrist. Now make a piece of *degreased* and roughened 1/4" piano wire to a length that just fits the hole or a little short.
Mix a batch of Brownells Acra-Glas (not the "Gel") and pour some in the hole, the rod should force some out when its put in.
Did I say wax (paste floor wax) anything the Acra-glas will touch that you do not want glued?
Wipe off or scrape out any excess in the *WAXED* tang and barrel inlet before it hardens. Now allow to set over night and you should have a nearly invisible permanent fix that at least as strong as the wrist originally was.
So far as you pins showing in the current repair, cover them with a brass or steel plate.
Dan.
