YES... lmaorof...
Do a test inside the barrel channel before proceeding with the whole stock. There are two choices for "AQ," actual AQ or Ferric Nitrate (FN)- both give exactly the same color, or result, identical.
The FN will require no neutralizing after being applied. The FN is mixed with alcohol or water 3:1 or 5:1, the five to one is stronger. The "heat" must be of the radiating kind, such as would radiate from an electric burner, or an open fire, glowing coals - a heat gun. The AQ can be applied in stages or layers, some dilute actual AQ before applying. Apply with a wet cloth and be sure and cover the whole stock as evenly as you can.
Prior to applying AQ or FN you can do a coat of tannic acid if you want. See Jim Kibler's website for directions. The tannic acid will immediately turn the stock black, not to worry, it will be a toasty brown after the AQ application.
You can let the stock dry for a few minutes before heating - or go directly to heating. The AQ wants to be hot, but avoid scorching the stock especially on corners or thin areas such as the forestock, keep moving the heat gun. You'll see the wood go a toasty red/brown, move on the the next area.
Where the tree grew determines how much tannic acid it took up, every stock is different and may or may not require multiple coats of AQ. Once you've completed the heating put some water or mineral spirits on the stock to get an idea of how dark it really is before doing another coat. Three go'rounds will make it as dark as it will ever go.
Hope that helps.
dave
