taking off some wood

[jim m]

a friend had given me a farrier's rasp and suggested I try on wood. I was shaping a forestock today and since there was a lot of wood to work with I gave it a try. WOW will those things remove some wood and fast. they are very aggressive and will bruise the wood so you need to know when to stop, but for rough shaping they work great. best thing about it is it was free.

[Nate McKenzie]

I've used one for years. I call her Big  Bertha. You're right. Go easy.

[Daryl]

'Jaws' is another good name.  Tylor used an automody rasp, the one with the wide curved teeth and when used on a barrel, takes off curls of steel when operated correctly.  You do have to take control of the rasp, though or it will run off sideways on you, given the chance.

[Dphariss]

Farriers rasps can cause real problems if you get very close to the finished dimension.
Usually raising the grain will allow the removal of the "bruised" wood. But it is possible some damage will not show until stained.
I tried one once for about 10 seconds. Did not like it. Your mileage may vary.
I sometimes use a large gouge and a mallet to rough shape (be careful of grain flow). Its actually less work than a rasp. Then a perhaps 1/2 round surform, then cabinet makers rasp, then metal files, then scrapers etc.
I also have used a 1/2 round surform in the "plane" type holder they cut wood fast and do not tear the surface if used right.
One blade will do many many stocks. I consider the flat and full round versions to be useless.

Dan

[Black Hand]

I prefer to use a small plane.  I have always hated trying to get "that last rasp mark" out of the wood, and a plane works very well.  Quick and easy to control, and a little less aggressive than a rasp. 

[Stophel]

I use rasps a lot (regular rasps). 

Actually, I like to saw down as close to finished dimensions as possible, and do most of my final shaping with a chisel.

[Darkhorse]

Be careful, very careful, when using a farriers rasp. They are very sharp and the rough side has large curved teeth that will cut you to the bone before you know it.
Old, used ones work best on wood as the new ones are so sharp  they can be too aggressive.
The first time one of those big sharp teeth grab and tear off a chunk of your purty curly maple you'll wonder why you ever thought it was a good idea.
Personally, after trying them on gunstocks I find I don't have the control I like. I now only use them on what they are made for; Horses hooves.

[Benedict]

These days, I like hand planes and spoke shaves.  When well tuned, they do a quick job with plenty of control.  Cabinet makers rasps and files are useful too.

Bruce

[davec2]

I have used everything from jewelers files to band saws to  a hatchet to take wood off a stock, but the handiest tool of them all is a tiny spoke shave that I had in an old X-acto knife set.  It is a die cast, cheap, tool that works like a champ.  It cuts smoothly, takes off about 0.004 to 0.005" at a stroke and leaves a beautifully smooth finish.

[Leatherbelly]

  I use chainsaw.

[Cooner]

I use the Ferrier's Rasp for quick wood removal. It works for me just like a cabinet makers rasp. Fast and clean. I use them like sandpaper as in sanding down through the grits. After I shape the stock down pretty close I  then I go to Nicholson #49 or#50 rasp. After that I slick everything up with mill files and jewelers files. I don't have to sand or scrape very much with this method.

BTW, it's good to be back. i had a heck of a time getting back on here. i finally gave up and started a new account.
Cheers,
Don Secondine

[Z. Buck]

i have used a small hatchet to rough out modern gunstocks, works pretty well but it pretty easy to get carried away... because i suspected that i could go to far, i didnt go far enough and ended up using the horseshoe rasp anyways