hawken lock plate,panel question(update pic and another question)

[Joe S.]

Been pondering this awhile and figured I would throw it out there for discussion. Im building a full stock flinterer and am have been working from the ends to the middle.All along wondering about how to work the lock panel and lock plate.Keeping in mind that a hawken fullstock flint gun would have been produced as percussion guns would be becoming popular.Would the hawken shop have handled the panels the same in both guns with the plate flush?Could it have been handled different had they repurposed an old flintlock and where forced to deal with the bevel on the outside of the lock plate?I know it was said here before you could do it both ways on contemporary builds but was after looking at the original thought to be converted ones the plates are flush to the panel.I am thinking about putting a slight bevel on the plate and having it proud of the panel.I think having the plate proud of the panel just looks like the real deal to me,more authentic?Just has me wondering which way to go,be a heck of alot easier if somebody would find an original still with a flint on it

[Dave B]

As the saying goes never say never. To date I have never seen a Hawken rifle that ever had anything but a flat lock plate. It maybe a few exist that do but I have not come across any evidence of the that. Certainly are more versed folks here that have seen more knowledge than I will chime in.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I agree with Dave...the lock plate is best if it is flat.  The only issue with that is that modern locks have a bevel.  L & R's Ashmore lock has a very very narrow bevel, and some judicious filing could remove it completely.  I think that is your best option....unless you can sweet talk Bob Roller into making one for you - then you'd have something special and correct.

When thinking about the panels around the plate, there are many variances.  I would study J & S
Hawken examples for inspiration there.  But panels from their long history of work would be fine as well.

[Joe S.]

filed plate to get rid of bevel as well as indent at the tail of the lock,plate will sit flush with lock panel.Now I'm pondering what hammer to go with.Originally I wanted to go with double throat seen here.I also have the plane one to the left.Seeings how we have no original flinter to work with I'm thinking the double throat one supplied by L&R here might be a tad to fancy with the plain plate and I done recall seeing one like it on rifles that would be around the time a full stock hawken would have been.The other hammer is ok, I guess.I'm thinking the double throat from a 1812 or so Harper's ferry or golsher lock would be the one,thoughts?input,Mr.Roller what did you use for a hammer when you made your hawken locks(flint)?[url][/ ]

[smylee grouch]

Could you use an original Hawken flintlock as an example, like say one of Sam's when he worked in Ohio, kinda/sorta like a transitional between flint and percussion.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Joe:  you've gone to a lot of work to get your lock plate to that state...nicely done!  I'd go with the double throated cock, but the goose neck is fine too.  It's simply personal preference.