Oh Oh, need glue reccomendation !! ??

[Bigmon]

I bought a fine fowler kit a couple years ago from Clay Smith, and am finally getting around to it.
This morning I noticed a crack in the cherry stock.
It is about 1/4" in from the face of the lock panel.
The barrel was fully inlayed by Clay and a great job.
However it appears maybe the wood shrank and the small portion between the face of the lock panel and the very breach end of the barrel could not shrink cause the barrel was in place.
It is odd cause with the barrel in place it seems I can push the crack closed.  Yet it is cracked.
It is not come apart and perhaps I can work some good glue in there and clamp.

My question is what would be the best glue??  I want to be sure that what ever I use does not prevent stain from penetrating, should I get some smear on the face of the wood between the lock and tang??

I like using accu glass but dont think I can get it to flow in the crack.

I used crazy glue once years ago in a similiar situation and got some on the wood, and it would not take stain.

Any advice is appreciated?

[Cory Joe Stewart]

I repaired a fairly severe crack with just plain old wood glue.  As long as you scrap the excess off it should stain fine.  It will probably leave a line visible to the trained eye. 

Cory Joe Stewart

[Bigmon]

Thanks, I have used Elmers carpenter glue with success before also.  And it is brown in color.
I did a repait in a cherry stock with that and it is invisible.
But I am wanting to use the best option.  I pd allot yankee greenbacks for this and even built a few others for practice.  I want this build as good as I can get it.
Of course that is always my goal, but this is to be special. (for me)

One good thing, this crack will be concealed by the hammer also, and all the great crud that accumulates in that area.

I been wondering if I thinned the glue a little and tried injecting with a hypo needle.
I can just walk down the street and find one of those laying around.

Thanks fer the advise.

[WKevinD]

I'm no expert but I have used Tightbond III with good success, stronger than the wood and with clamping will make for a hairline joint. I wipe with a damp cloth before and after applying glue and lightly scrape the joint when dry. I avoid colored glues.
Kevin

[P.W.Berkuta]

I also recommend the Tightbond wood glue products. the Tightbond III is said to be "ideal for both interior and exterior applications". Don't use too much water to clean up excess as this will degrade the glue and reduce bond strength. Secure the joint tightly during curing is the secret to a good strong joint.

[Maineshops]

I use original titlbond it is just as strong but don't have the plastic init to make it water proof. You won't have the glue mark problem. Dan

[Darkhorse]

If you have some Elmers glue I would and do, use it. I keep some Elmers glue on my workbench permanently.  I was near the end of a build using a rice barrel and a curly maple stock that had been worked and thinned and considered finished. I was taking the rifle apart and was tapping the front pin out when the forend just split out from the center of the muzzle to about 10" down in a long taper. The end where it had almost broke out was still attached by a slver of wood. Right then I got my Elmers and put glue on both sides of the split, then put them together and pinned the front. That held them in line between the front pin and the sliver of attached wood.
Next I took a small clamp and clamped the 2 sides together just tight enough that the split was back in the correct spot and glue came out top and bottom. Then I wiped all the excess glue off and walked away.
When stained and finished it's very difficult to find the split and I'm the one who split it and then fixed it. That's been over 12 years ago with no problems. Out of sight, ought of mind, I hardly even think about it.

[Bigmon]

Thanks to all.
I know I'm only gonna get one good chance at getting this right.

[Mark Elliott]

If the crack closes up tight with the barrel out,  I would use thin cyanoacrylate because it flows into the closed crack.   However,  you need to have enough wood around the cracked area that you can scrape off the excess glue.    Another option would be to wait until you have stained the stock to fix the crack.   Again,  this assumes the crack will close up tight on its' own with the barrel out.   Otherwise,  I would use Titebond III and clamp the crack closed to dry.    If you have a complete break, a stock broken through the wrist or lock mortice,  that is the time to use epoxy.

[dogcreek]

Acraglas will work fine. Just use the regular Acraglas, not the gel. And add a wee bit of pigment, which is supplied with the kit, I believe. A little pigment goes a long way.

[g2608671@verizon.net]

Gorilla Glue. Dampen the crack and spread in a small amount and then clamp it.  After about 1 hour release the clamp, wipe off any excess and re-clamp.  Make sure you let it dry and then sand lightly.

[Dennis Glazener]

I would use thin cyanoacrylate because it flows into the closed crack.

Is Super Glue the same thing? I have a very small crack that appeared on the upper edge of the forearem rail when I applied heat to ferric nitrate. I went ahead and applied Chambers oil finish, careful not to get any down inside the crack. I have plenty of super glue but have never used it for a repair but I am concerned about getting glue down into the crack without prying it open very much.
Dennis

[Mark Elliott]

Yes,  cyanoacrylate is the same thing as SuperGlue.   However,  not all are equal.   I buy mine from WoodCraft in two thicknesses; thin, and gap filling.   The thin stuff will just get sucked into a closed crack.  It is the best way to seal a tight crack.

[Dennis Glazener]

Thanks, will give it a try
Dennis

[Smoketown]

Yes,  cyanoacrylate is the same thing as SuperGlue.   However,  not all are equal.   I buy mine from WoodCraft in two thicknesses; thin, and gap filling.   The thin stuff will just get sucked into a closed crack.  It is the best way to seal a tight crack.

You can get it in even deeper if you use 'canned air' or your shop compressor.   

Just remember to use glasses, goggles or a face-shield.   

Cheers,
Smoketown

[Scota4570]

The thin CA glue will wick in like water.  If you then hold the chip in place and spritz wiht the accelerator it will dry in a couple of seconds.  Hold it in place with the tip of a knife, toothpick, or somehting.  It will get very hot. 

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

CA is stronger without the accelerator, and the accelerator may turn the glue white.  On hard wood, I like using a glue that cures more slowly than CA such as Titebond, or AcraGlas from Brownell's.

[Daryl]

Always have some in the shop for closing wounds. 
Yeah - I'm a bit clumsy with sharp instruments. 
Don't use the accelerator to 'kick' it, on a wound.
If you do, you will experience what "stinging" really means.

[Scota4570]

http://www.woodturningvideosplus.com/cyanoacrylates.htm

[Neven]

A lot of the bow makers use Tightbond 3 which is waterproof. I've used it also with great success.