cleaning between shots

[Turtle]

 My 2 cents. My .32 fouls much faster than my bigger bores. For me, the larger the bore the longer I can shoot without fouling. I use mink oil, but carry some Lehigh valley to clean with if I notice it's needed. I also find that temperature and humidity make a big difference in fouling. Pushing the ball down becomes a problem more often with my .32 but on my bigger bores, I usually notice the ring at the bottom first. When I use mink oil the first shot from a clean bore is in the following group, but with other lubes it often is not which is why, for one reason I use it. I can load a fairly tight load in my funneled barrel without a short starter only if I use a slippery lube.
  A question--Is it better to use a larger ball or a thicker patch to get a tight fit?
                                          Turtle

[hanshi]

Speaking again of tight loads, I don't think my prb are quite as tight as what Daryl is use to loading.  Normally I'll use .020"-.022" mattress ticking with either Hoppes or mink oil; both work very well.  I also can use .025" denim with these lubes in most of my rifles.  Regardless of which lube is used, all the loads are quite seatable with the wood rod.  I have no use for any load that can't be seated with a wood rod.  I do use a ss range rod at the range but often will revert to the wood rod for a few shots.  In fact, loads are often easier to push down the bore WITH the wood rod, especially with greasy hands from lubing patches; the 1/4" slick steel rod can be difficult to handle, sometimes.

I no longer have that much strength in my hands due to arthritis.  But I can still handle the "tighter" loads pretty well.  Fouling has never been an issue with the .32 or .36.  I shoot them for an afternoon without any necessity to wipe.  The last load of the day loads no differently than the second.  I have two Rice rb barrels with approximately .016" grooves.  Grooves of this depth REQUIRE a rather thick patch.  My .54 has .006" grooves and doesn't require the same thickness of patching;  anywhere from .015"-.020" works just fine.  I've discovered (for my use) that it's is difficult to get meaningful compression with the usual .015" patches that are used by many shooters, especially in deep, round bottom grooves.  That's the reason I use .020"-.025" thick patches.  I use to use thinner patches long ago and got good results as many on the forum do.  Going to heavier material just works better for my use.

[patkinson]

I never had a muzzleloading rifle or pistol that would not shoot well without cleaning between shots.  Phil

[smallpatch]

Turtle,
It depends on the barrel.  In general, deep groove rifling = thicker patch,  shallow groove=larger ball.
I shoot a rice .32, and use a .320 ball and .020 patches.  Loads easily, never need to clean between shots.  I load with the under barrel rod, no problem.

[Turtle]

thanks smallpatch-makes sense

[rfd]

i rarely do fouling control between shots with my flintlock rifles and smoothbores.  i can only relate how i approach loading and what works for me, and YMMV.  lots depends on the bore, the fit of ball and patch, the patch lube.  i do not load tight patched balls that require a hammer or even a "short starter".  pure lead balls are .010 to .020 smaller in diameter than the barrel's land diameter.  cotton patch strips are pre-lubed with a homemade soft solid lube and heat gunned into the cloth weave.  the size of the ball and thickness of the patch are predetermined to easily load past the muzzle.

before the first load, the barrel and lock are cleaned of any residual oils and dried off.  patched balls are thumb seated, or at best nudged below the muzzle with the handle of a knife, excess patching is cut off.  the ride down the barrel to the chamber is easy and smooth for that first patched ball.

the load is fired.  blowing down the barrel keeps the bp residue soft.  this practice is falsely (in my opinion - "the libertarian thing") forbidden at most ranges.  if so, i use a blow tube to get moist breath down the barrel.  then load as soon as possible. 

subsequent loads will not go down with one smooth push, and will require getting "bumped" down with the ramrod.  when the patched ball appears to have reached the powder and bottomed out, it usually hasn't and can be verified by looking at the "seated ball" mark on the ramrod's end (you do have proper load and no-load marks on yer ramrod, eh?).  this is when the ramrod gets thrust and thrown down on the ball and bounced.  when the ball is fully seated, and the powder is properly compressed, the ramrod will readily bounce ("trampoline") up.  that's it.  fire and do it over. 

   

[Hungry Horse]

 This subject reminds me of that country song, " how can I miss you when you won't go away". There is never going to be a general consensus on this. And, there are always going to be shooters that are going to swab, and not swab. End of story.

Hungry Horse

[P.W.Berkuta]

This subject reminds me of that country song, " how can I miss you when you won't go away". There is never going to be a general consensus on this. And, there are always going to be shooters that are going to swab, and not swab. End of story.

Hungry Horse

I like this story

[rfd]

This subject reminds me of that country song, " how can I miss you when you won't go away". There is never going to be a general consensus on this. And, there are always going to be shooters that are going to swab, and not swab. End of story.

Hungry Horse

right on the money, mr. horse!  like most things in life there's more'n one good way to skin a cat, it's subjective stuff and YMMV!

[hanshi]

All loads in all my rifles, excluding the smoothbore, require a short starter.  I no longer have the hand strength I once had back when I loaded only with the underbarrel wood rod.

[Gun_Nut_73]

NMLRA Rules

1110–SWABBING BETWEEN SHOTS–Swabbing between shots with a damp patch to eliminate the possibility
of glowing embers igniting the next powder charge is strongly recommended.

The place I shoot replaces "strongly reccomended" with "mandatory". They are serious about it too. 

I do not agree from a safety standpoint.  From a standpoint of maintaining uniform bore conditins, it does give best accuracy. 

I you keep a slotted jag on the rod, with a damp patch, it only takes a few sconds to swab it.  No big deal.  I am surprized that more clubs don't require it.

My ML gun club DOES require swabbing between shots.  I have never had a problem with the rule.