Newbie Smoothbore Questions

[Cory McArtor]

I'm a fairly new BP shooter and have only shot my .45 flintlock rifle so far.  I was thinking of building a Kibler kit and was stuck between getting the SMR kit in .36 for squirrel/small stuff or the Colonial in .54 or .58 for the possibility of bigger critters (I've been invited to Alaska to hunt moose, caribou or black bear with a family member who lives there).  I pitched getting one of each to my wife who quickly vetoed that idea.  Then I realized you can get the .58 Colonial in smoothbore, which would give me a pretty good all around gun using shot for squirrels and other small game but could be used with patched ball for larger game.  That being said, I know very little about smoothbores.  Here are a couple questions:

• What additional items would I need for shooting shot that I wouldn't have already shooting patched round balls?
• Could I still use 3F in the .58 or should I get 2F?
• Is there any other random advice a newbie like me would need?

Thanks for the help!

[Daryl]

For shot in a choked (jug or conventional) gun, thin "B" wads for overshot, 1/8" card and 1/2" felt or donnaconna cushion wads.
For shot in a non-choked gun- likely just thin "B" overshot wads for between powder and shot and over the shot.
Lots of different guys several lots of different combinations that work for them. That is the trial and error testing to actually find what YOUR
gun prefers.
As with patched ball shooting, you have to develop the best load for your gun. Even changing shot sizes can improve or disrupt the patterns
you obtain with shot.
As to using patched round balls, you will have to develop your own load data - patch material & thickness- either 100% cotton or linen & ball diameter.
If you want to shoot hardened balls (not pure lead) then the ball will likely have to be smaller than what you would use in a pure or dead soft lead ball.
For a .58 smoothbore, something about  .555" or maybe even .562" would work. You may have to buy a custom mould, like from Jeff Tanner in the UK.
A ball from .025" to .030" undersize to the bore is usually necessary to allow the use a thick enough patch, that will hold enough lube to do it's job.
3F will work, but for any given load, it will develop higher pressure that even 10gr. more of 2F. In the .58, the velocities will be similar with identical loads
using 3F or 2F. Personally I prefer the use of 2f from .50cal on up. Others use 3F in all their guns - no matter the calibre. A close friend uses 85gr. 3F in his
20 bore smooth bore and is extremely difficult to beat on a trail walk(actually, impossible so far). It is his only gun and he shoots it like a rifle inside 100yards.
Most smoothbores will be accurate enough to hunt with(with good load development, to about 50 or 60yards on big game.
Actually deliberately shooting at a paper target at 100yards should show the folly of attempting such a shot on a deer or bear.

[stubshaft]

I think that Daryl covered all of the salient points.  Great job Daryl!  All I can say is that I primarily use 3F in the majority of my guns.  It burns cleaner to me and those that use 2F get better accuracy from it.  Try them both and decide for yourself.

[Hungry Horse]

 I find that using 3F when shooting shot tends to blow the pattern more often than 2F. You might give them both a try.

  Hungry Horse

[Cory McArtor]

Thanks for the help!  I'll try and get some 2F and various patch/ball and shot combinations and fiddle around with it until I figure something out.

[Daryl]

Thanks for the help!  I'll try and get some 2F and various patch/ball and shot combinations and fiddle around with it until I figure something out.

Good for you. Too- try the 3F- one of the fellows up here uses it to good advantage in his 20bore.
Testing various components is exactly what must be done if you want the best performance your gun is capable of.

[Cory McArtor]

I'm planning on both, I just didn't mention getting 3F since I already have it for my .45 rifle.

[smokinbuck]

Daryl definitely gave you the straight @#$%/!!, especially about trying different combinations. I have found in both my 20 and 12 gauge guns that I get a better pattern without the cushion wads, they seem to blow through the center of my patterns. I use 2 over powder wads and 2 over shot cards in both guns. The only way to find out what will work the best for you is to give as many options as you can a try.
Mark

[bob in the woods]

I don't use cushion wads either. Card wads work just fine in my 20 and 10 bore.  If not already mentioned, try paper cartridges as well.  I haven't yet found any patch/ball combination that shoots as well as my paper cartridges in my 10 bore.

[rfd]

i have one powder horn for all my flintlock rifles and smoothbores, from .40 to .62 bores, and that horn is loaded with swiss 3f for both tube and pan.

the 20ga powder charge for patched ball and shot will be different, and each gun and type of load needs sorting out for what the gun wants best - there is no shortcut to this matter.

[Lobo]

Don't get a jug choked gun if you're planning to shoot both ball and shot.

[Mike Brooks]

Don't get a jug choked gun if you're planning to shoot both ball and shot.

Why not?

[WKevinD]

Don't get a jug choked gun if you're planning to shoot both ball and shot.

That's exactly why I build a jug choked gun!
Kevin

[Hungry Horse]

I strongly recommend trying a bare ball load, components, or paper cartridge, with a heavy charge of 2F. Depending on the time of year in Alaska, you may not want to deal with cold fingers, and tight patching, maybe a patch lube that does’nt play well with cold weather, along with the possible need to get that second shot off quickly.

  Hungry Horse

[alacran]

I have been getting best accuracy using either tow. or 1/4 off a cushion wad over powder. Bare ball, and an "A" card over the lot.  Have run out of "A" cards on a trail walk and just used leaves to keep ball on top of load. works just as good. If you stack a bunch of "A" cards together and drill a 1/16 th. hole in center, they will load a lot easier.
The 1/4 cushion wad is easier to use than tow.