Aquafortis Regent & Chambers finish together

[Davemuzz]

I had previously mentioned that I wanted a red hue or red color finish in my Leman stock.  So, I took a piece of scrap and the top picture below is just Aquafortis and a Chambers oil finish over most. The second pic is done with an application of Aquafortis, heat it, let it dry a day, lightly sand the stock to "knock down" the darker look, and then one coat (non-diluted) of Chambers nut brown. The nut brown has a lot of red in it.

Anyway, here are the results. Pic #2 is going on my stock!

[rich pierce]

Got to be happy with that!

[Craig Wilcox]

Happy you posted that, as I am about to start shopping for finishing materials.  Many thanks - love that red!

[KC]

I agree. Finish number 2 is the winner. Beautiful color.
K.C.

[Mr. Bubbles]

what did you neutralize the AF with?  You might try ONE more science experiment and do the same as you did in #2, but neutralize it with lye instead of ammonia or baking soda.  It makes a difference in how the stripes pop.


formula weight of aluminum sulfate

[Davemuzz]

Aquafortis Regent as sold by TOTW, doesn't require (not in the instructions) any neutralization. OTOH, ferric nitrate is a different "animal" as I understand it and does require neutralization.

[tallbear]

Aquafortis Regent as sold by TOTW, doesn't require (not in the instructions) any neutralization. OTOH, ferric nitrate is a different "animal

Dave

TOTW Aqua fortis regent tends to be very acidic (their instructions not withstanding) and will continue to darken over time if not neutralized.I've even seen some so hot it discolored the brass mounts over time.Some builders don't mind the darkening so it's really up to you.

Nitrate of Iron stain(Ferric Nitrate) if homemade and properly made is not as acidic as Tracks and again can be neutralized or not depending on the builders preference.I find that with my homemade Nitrate of Iron stain that if I neutralize with household ammonia I get red undertones.If you make your stain from Ferric Nitrate crystals(rather dissolving iron in nitric acid as I do) no neutralization is necessary.

Mitch Yates

[Davemuzz]

Well thank you Mitch!!

Today I just applied the AQ and tomorrow I was planning on applying the Jim Chambers stain. Now that you have made such a timely post, I believe I will wipe the stock down with ammonia before I apply the Chambers stain.

I like the subtle darks using the AQ. So if I can keep it the way it (hopefully) will come out at application, that will work just fine for my taste!!

Again....thanks!!

Dave

[fjohnson]

i use lmf walnut and mix in some lmf cherry and get about the same results.  there is no neutralizing and let it dry overnite and give it a 2nd coat

[moleeyes36]

Mitch is dead right about Track's Aqua Fortis.  It and Wakhon Bay are both hot as a fire cracker and will in a matter of a few months turn your stock a very dark color if not neutralized well.  I learned that the hard way several years ago.   

Mole Eyes

[Pukka Bundook]

Mole,

For some reason I never have neutralised the Wahakon Bay Aquafortis, and really like the colour. Never noticed it was too dark or anything. 
That short snap matchlock had that treatment as well, and after a year looks the same colour to me.

Maybe different wood I don't know.

[moleeyes36]

PB,

Yes each piece of wood reacts differently.  The rifle I used the Wahkon Bay AF on has a very curly maple stock that turned from a nice brown to a VERY dark brown in about 6 months.  This is my Murphy's Law rifle because the custom maker's barrel I had made for it is bored a little off center as well.  I have a new barrel due from Charlie Burton in about a month to replace the faulty one (which is not one of Charlie's barrels).  I'm going to sand and rub out the current finish and rebuild the rifle.  It's a lot of effort, but it's a rifle that is light weight, balances perfectly and just really fits me well, so I want to give it a new lease on life.

Mole Eyes

 

[Davemuzz]

Thank all of you for a timely post.....and quality information. I did a search on neutralizing AQ and.....ended up right back on this forum.  Here's a quality post from 2014:  http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=32546.0

[Davemuzz]

Well....live and learn!  I hope others (likely like me....1st time builders) will benefit from my experience here. When I applied the Aquafortis I did it in, I'll call it "large areas." By that I did the length of the forend....one side, then the other. Then I did the stock from rear to lock panels, flipped it and did the other side.

Well, what I ended up with was some brown......and a lot (A LOT) of green. Now, I have read the instructions and they address and it states that flourcent light will show the green cast. I'm looking at this outside in daylight.

This morning I sanded one side of the stock down, applied AQ to just a side panel, applied heat immediately and got the nice brown I was looking for. When I initially did the AQ, there was enough time for it to dry out somewhat.....and I think that is why I got the green. And yes.....I did apply a sufficient amount of heat!  Heat gun and that stock could not be touched!!

Well, I'm in the process of removing "green" and will do the stock in small sections when it's ready.....again.

[tallbear]

For what it's worth Dave I always stain the rifle completely and let dry at least an hour before blushing......I do this twice.

Mitch

[Davemuzz]

Tallbear, Yeah, I've read that which is why I didn't think twice about my "method" of applying the AQ. But frankly, other than the time thing, I don't know how I got so green!!

Here's my re-do at this point. I had to stop to take a break. If you notice at the bottom of the pic, that is the stock...now sanded to remove the green.

Hey.....I like doing things more than once.....I cut it off twice and it's still to short.....it took me 3 times to get the lock plate browned right (that's a true one)......Let me move it here.....so then I can move it there (take my wife.....please)

[Pukka Bundook]

Dave,

Did you heat it after you had applied the aquafortis?  It needs heat to turn colour. I use the stove-top rings and keep it moving  for an equal colour.

[Davemuzz]

Dave,

Did you heat it after you had applied the aquafortis?  It needs heat to turn colour. I use the stove-top rings and keep it moving  for an equal colour.

Yes. I guess I wasn't clear on what I did. Essentially I applied the AQ in 4 large sections on the stock. I waited about 5 minutes....maybe longer....and then applied the heat gun. (Heat gun....not a hair dryer) I applied heat on high and kept it moving. The stock was turning brown, but only to a point. I thought it would continue to brown....as no matter how long I held the heat gun on it, the color did not change any further.

So.....in my above re-do, I am applying in small sections (4 sections just on the forend) It seems to be working fine.

FWIW

[smallpatch]

Davemuzz,
Making way too much out of this.
Coat the whole stock.  Let it dry.  I let it dry overnight.  Then heat it,  not dark enough, do it again.
Then decide if it needs stain. 
I don't see how you'll get even colors by doing small sections at a time.

[Hungry Horse]

I agree with Smallpatch. I did my first gun the way you describe and only hope that old calico cat burned up in a house fire somewhere. Go darker than you want, and rub it back with white Scotch Brite to the shade you desire. Add reds, or golds with Chambers stain, or Dangler stain, and prepare to be impressed.

  Hungry Horse

[Huntschool]

Dave:

Gotta say, on the stocks I used AF on, I did the whole stock and then came back with the heat later.  Worked well but in most cases I needed a second go round of AF to get close to where I wanted to be.  Finished up with some thinned stain and then knocked it back a bit.

[Davemuzz]

Guys.....I tell ya, I dunno what I did wrong on the first go around. But green was green and that was looking at it in daylight. I sanded the stock down again (what a PITA) and did small sections at a time. The stock came out great this time! A golden brown.....no green. I'll post a pic tomorrow before I apply the Jim Chambers stain.

In any event, I got it right now....and I'm looking forward to finishing the stock up and then......range time!!

Well.......I do have to finish my hickory ramrod. But I have a range loading rod to give it a try. 

[Mauser06]

Maybe I'm doing something wrong....I've done 2 and this is what they look like before the heat







This is after the heat






First coat of oil and rubbing back select areas







Finished





I didn't use any other stains...just Kibler's tannic acid and  iron nitrate...then Chamber's oil.


Kinda scary the first time a stock turns nearly black....lol.  But, I like the colors I get and the finish.

[Davemuzz]

Mauser06....that's a very nice finish you have there!!

I took a pic this am. At this stage (now) it's exactly where I thought I should be. 

[WKevinD]

If you make your stain from Ferric Nitrate crystals(rather dissolving iron in nitric acid as I do) no neutralization is necessary.

Mitch Yates

Mitch, what proportions of water to crystals give a good solution?
Kevin