how to install nose cap.

[Red Owl]

Okay, this is a stupid question but.....
On a nose cap, the cap curves in at top to meet the side of the barrel.  How do you taper the top of the forestock in this area? Just narrow it as it approaches the nose cap? Some other way? Thanks.

[George F.]

I'm not sure if I'm understanding your question correctly, but I'll try to answer what I think your question is... The forestock at it's thickest point is around 1/8" or less preferably, on each side of the barrel, generally less. It slopes to the barrel to nearly a fine edge, not a square edge, but a pointed edge. The nose cap, once installed can be filed to the same profile. I think that's what your asking.  ...Geo.

[Bioprof]

Red Owl,

I sent you a private message.

[Acer Saccharum]

I think you want to keep as much wood under the cap as you can, but at the top edge of the cap along the barrel, the wood feathers down to nothing.

Tho' this cap is horn, the shape of the stock is pretty much the same:


Might see a fuzzy picture here:
http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=9.0

[Red Owl]

Thanks.  I'm still thinking out what to do.  In my case I have a sort of unique situation.  I am putting a full stock on an originally half stocked, percussion lock, hooked breech rifle. It is my intention to remove the barrel from the stock to clean out the bore and what I am concerned about is the potential of breaking the delicate nose cap area if it is not supported by having the barrel in place.  With an American long rifle with a flint lock the barrel stays in place so the nose cap area can be paper thin without much worry.

Right now I am favoring the idea of keeping the top width of the fore stock even out to the end of the nose cap so that more wood stays in the area and adds strength. I would then need to make a custom nose cap where the top of the cap bends at a 90 degree angle to cover the top of the fore stock. I was thinking about using a cross pin to retain the cap (on my previous builds I've use a small set screw on the bottom). I'll solder an end on to the nose cap.

Another option would be to cast a nose cap in place.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

There are many books available describing how to do this job...it's not difficult, and with a sheet brass nose piece, in the neighbourhood of .040" thick, there's lots of wood under it, with or without the barrel for support.

[Red Owl]

Thanks, I was checking the tutorial on this site and it seems a more rounded top is better than a sharp 90 degree bend.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I find it best to make the nose piece - then it matches the stock, rather than the other way around.  Most commercial nose pieces leave too much wood along the barrel.  On a lot of longrifles, there is minimal wood along the side flats of the barrel.  Even on Lehigh rifles, it isn't much more than 1/8", and as little as 1/16" for some schools.
And there is never a 90 degree bend with a flat there.