Author Topic: Black Barrel Browning  (Read 4495 times)

PINYONE

  • Guest
Black Barrel Browning
« on: July 27, 2008, 09:45:49 PM »
I haave browned many barrels over the years and now it seems everyone is doing them black- does anyone know what type of solution is being used? PINYON

Offline Dennis Glazener

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *
  • Posts: 19487
    • GillespieRifles
Re: Black Barrel Browning
« Reply #1 on: July 27, 2008, 10:04:48 PM »
Quote
I haave browned many barrels over the years and now it seems everyone is doing them black- does anyone know what type of solution is being used? PINYON
I have not noticed "everyone" blacking barrels. Are you referring to the "aging" process that is being done with browning solutions and cold blue then rubbing back etc. ?

If so here is one that Allen Martin posted on the old ALR board. It works good for me.

Quote
Allen Martin barrel finish.

I been asked for this before !!! Seem like this finish is a big hit !!!!!

First step ....
Brown the barrel like normal but do not card or remove scale like you if you were making a even brown . What you are looking for is the pitting . I normally I leave my barrel in the damp box for about 8-12 days . The barrel will look ....rough !!!!!!
Some folks use bleach but I feel the pits get to large ......... and uneven .

Step two ....
Sand the barrel down to the bare metal but you leave the pits .
It's very messy job .
Using 100 grit sandpaper going to a scotch-brite pad , I also you use hot -soapy water and wet sand .

Step three .....
Apply cold blue ..... Brownell's 44/40 works for me .....
Rub the cold off with a scotch-brite pad & oil .......... And that's it !!!!!!!!
Simple takes time and it's messy .

Every job turns out different ..... but thats the beauty of it !!!!

Good luck .............
Allen

« Last Edit: July 27, 2008, 10:06:06 PM by Dennis Glazener »
"I never considered a difference of opinion in politics, in religion, in philosophy, as cause for withdrawing from a friend" - Thomas Jefferson

Offline sz

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 649
Re: Black Barrel Browning
« Reply #2 on: July 27, 2008, 10:07:03 PM »
Most rust browning will turn very dark or even black if you just boil the parts in water for 5 minutes when the rusting is finished
If you are going for the rust blue intentionally (black color, even though it's called "blued") try the Brownells product.  It works very well.  The Pilkington product is also excellent, though it's very expensive for what you get.  most folks think it's over priced, and that's why Brownells brought theirs out in the first place

Offline C Wallingford

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 863
  • Northern Kentucky
    • CW Knives
Re: Black Barrel Browning
« Reply #3 on: July 27, 2008, 11:04:59 PM »
I have seen several that have been charcoal blued. That is a very dark or black finish. Maybe that is what you are seeing.

Offline Roger Fisher

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 6805
Re: Black Barrel Browning
« Reply #4 on: July 28, 2008, 01:08:44 AM »
Let's mention now about the main reason to let the browning or 'blackning' go til she is pitted...!  When said rifle or smoothy gets to be shot in the bright sun the rifleman will be darn glad the browning was left go since it cuts way down on glare. 

The rifles that are left in the white to 'brown' via use had that drawback (only my view for certain) 

A friend of mine (Ron Greene - since lost to cancer) had built a beautiful Armstrong long rifle with that horseshoe 'silver' inlay around the barrel tang.  When shooting in the matches on a bright day he would spritz that shiney inlay with sight blacik so he could see the sights... :)

Offline Dphariss

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 9920
  • Kill a Commie for your Mommy
Re: Black Barrel Browning
« Reply #5 on: July 28, 2008, 06:18:21 PM »
Boil a brown barrel and the boiling converts the red iron oxide to black iron oxide.
It is generally boiled every coat, the excess carded off with degreased 0000 steel wool then rusted/boiled till the color is right.
Change water every time.
I get better results in rust bluing if the solution contains some nitric acid. I used to use Wakhon Bay cold brown and AF stain mixed about 50-50. But AF stock stain left a little more acid will work OK. The solution needs to be pretty weak unless fuming the parts. It tends to remove the previous coat otherwise.
Dan
He who dares not offend cannot be honest. Thomas Paine