Rust bluing with LMF and steam

[sdilts]

Has anyone tried rust bluing with LMF barrel brown using steam instead of scalding? I found an old post that used Pilkington's but was wondering if LMF would work the same.

[smart dog]

Hi,
It should work just fine.  In fact, I am going to switch to using a steamer in my shop rather than using boiling water.

dave 

[Metalshaper]

knew a guy working in a industrial pre-treatment plant that had access to a live steam line.  We were talking gun bluing and browning, when we discovered a similar hobby with guns.
He said he always browned even when he blued... and then discussed the advantage of "rust bluing" using live steam! His boss would let him bring in the parts and he'd just hit them with
 a blast of steam. He just browned and carded till he got the look he wanted and blued it it one shot.

Respect Always
Jonathan

[RJD-VT]

This is a bit of good info from last winter. Dennis Daigger shows a good pic of his steam set up.

http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=52773.0

[JBJ]

Take a look at the following link. The steam setup is quite cheap and apparently very effective. Watch it from start to finish for some sound ideas.


J.B.

[Tim]

That LMF browning solution sure works great when you boil your parts.
If it works better with steam I’m gonna try steam on my barrel for sure.

[yellowhousejake]

I saw that same video and built that same apparatus when researching their blueing solution. I ended up using LMF and steaming in the pipe as they showed. It turned out very well.

I will warn you that if you steam a long barrel in that contraption you better have a high ceiling to get the barrel out. Removing the lid will set you back generating the steam. The whole thing is also very tippy, be careful working with it as it can spill a pot full of 210 degree water on your feet (I was wearing boots) . Also the warning to have full steam generation is good advice. A cool barrel or a cool tube will cause spotting due to condensation. Just because there is steam coming out the top does not mean the pipe is ready to accept the barrel. The highest point of the pipe must be steam hot, or the cool barrel will immediately condense the cooling water vapor and ruin the job.

If done with care and everything is kept hot, it works very well and is quite fast.

DAve

[shootrj2003]

In case there is any doubt,that s the only way to go...steam

[Tim S]

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  Here is my steam tube set up. Yes, the tube set up can be unstable. I tie off to a fold up ladder for support. I make sure there is plenty of steam coming out of the top before I insert the barrel and let steam for a least 15 minutes. I've had good results using this system.

Tim

[Clark Badgett]

I would have to do that set-up outside.

[FALout]

I’m sure that setup works, but I’ll stick to boiling water.

[STJ1954]

I used Pilkington's for years and never steamed or used a damp box. Did this upstairs in my garage during the winter with no heat. The only humidity was the hot water tank when I boiled. I boil, carded and recoat every day for a week. Just hung it up and let it rust. It seems to me LMF browning is more aggresive rust and a courser finish than Pilkington. It depends on what you prefer.

[Waksupi]

I've been doing steaming for several years now. I find that even the heavy walled PVC will start to melt and sag after a half dozen barrels or so. I went to stove pipe, that works well.

[shootrj2003]

I use a toilet flange on the base and attach it to a piece of plywood,it could be knocked over but not easily it’s fairly stable and powered by a Wagner wallpaper steamer ,use any water,and you can use it after steaming as a sweatbox as it keeps the moisture in the tube if the cap is on,but I have just hung in the air too,I don’t have to boil water,just about 20 minutes for stem to build,it helps to heat the rusted part before steaming to prevent condensation on the cold metal,this could ,theoretically cause streaks ,I never had this happen even if cold,,but...

[Dphariss]

I used Pilkington's for years and never steamed or used a damp box. Did this upstairs in my garage during the winter with no heat. The only humidity was the hot water tank when I boiled. I boil, carded and recoat every day for a week. Just hung it up and let it rust. It seems to me LMF browning is more aggresive rust and a courser finish than Pilkington. It depends on what you prefer.

Interesting. In Montana used on 4150 alloy (the only thing I was rust bluing at the time) Pilkingtons would stop working at the third coat (about the time the steel would have a gray-blue color after boiling, even in a damp box. I did find that Wakon Bay "AF" stain mixed with their browning solution worked really well though. It gives and nice semi-flat blue. I boil and card every coat. Color is not good in photos for some reason always looks browner or grayer... I sometimes card every other day since rusting is slower out here. But last couple of days its been snowing and humidity is high. I summer its generally under 20% RH.

Dan

[Bsharp]

Steam Rust Bluing.

[Daryl]

Looks GREAT, Dan.