Did someone mention Superglue repair

[Wyoduster]

I know someone here on the forum mentioned some time ago about strengthening wood or making repairs with Superglue. need more info. Need to make a repair.... then I remembered Superglue... What else would work?

[retired fella]

I have used superglue in the past BUT due to the hairline crack that you have I don't think that it would work.  I have heard cynoacrolade (spelling?) is a super thin modelers glue would work better.  Others might chime in that will have a better sense of this product.      Good luck with your repair.           

[Chowmi]

I have used superglue in the past BUT due to the hairline crack that you have I don't think that it would work.  I have heard cynoacrolade (spelling?) is a super thin modelers glue would work better.  Others might chime in that will have a better sense of this product.      Good luck with your repair.           

Super glue and cyanoacrylate are the same thing.  They can be confused because Super glue is a marketing name for what you buy at the hardware store. R/C airplane makers buy much purer grades of it, and call it CA. Additionally, when you buy good CA, you can get it in various levels of viscosity for different purposes. It goes from very thin, to quite thick. Thin CA penetrates deeper and dries faster than thick.

I have not used it on a rifle, so I don’t wish to make a recommendation here, just clarify what it is.
If you do choose to use CA, get the good stuff from a hobby shop made for model airplanes, ships etc.

Hopefully someone who has tried it on a rifle will chime in

Cheers,
Norm

[Kevin Houlihan]

Cyanoacrylate and Superglue are one in the same.  I used it to graft in a piece of wood to repair a used rifle that I bought for my son 5 years ago and it worked great.  Still have the rifle and the repair is still holding great.  Spread the wood to open the crack, glue and hold for 30 seconds or so.  Should be fine.
Kevin

[Daryl]

I used Ultra-Thin hobby store CA for a hairline crack in my 14 bore rifle - about 12 years ago. It is still holding today.  From the Hobby Stores, it is
available in 1 oz and 2 oz. bottles. I always keep a bottle of thin CA in the shop for closing wounds created by clumsiness and sharp tools.

[Jeff Durnell]

I've used Cyanoacrylate on dozens of cracks and drying checks with success, mostly on wooden bows that need to stay together while flexing countless times. I keep varying thicknesses around for various tasks, but use only Thin viscosity for such cracks. The thin viscosity has wicking properties that will suck it down into the farthest reaches of the crack, improving strength.

Forget the 'Superglue' brand name, and instead search ebay or woodworker or hobby supply chains for the thin viscosity CA. I've used several different brands over the years all with equal success. Be mindful of the fact that it's virtually instant just like superglue, and it's thinner than water.

[FDR]

Remove the lock. Put a piece of tape over the crack and seal it down good. Use thin super glue and feed it into the crack from the lock mortice. With any luck you might not even need to refinish.

Fred

[BillF/TRF]

If you need to speed up the curing time of your super glue, try a CA Accelerator aerosol like Zip Kicker.  It will cure the bonding site instantly and it did not affect the paint on one of my wood carving projects.  Be careful not to have any CA on your hands as the Accelerator will burn them.

[hermdog]

I work for a company that builds high-end architectural wood doors. The guys in the shop use a super thin CA glue called Hot Stuff. If you use the spray activator it dries instantly and leaves no film or anythiing on the surface of the wood. You can stain and finish without any issues.

[Mike Lyons]

I used Ultra-Thin hobby store CA for a hairline crack in my 14 bore rifle - about 12 years ago. It is still holding today.  From the Hobby Stores, it is
available in 1 oz and 2 oz. bottles. I always keep a bottle of thin CA in the shop for closing wounds created by clumsiness and sharp tools.

I agree with Daryl.  Buy the stuff sold at hobby stores for remote controlled airplanes.  You can also find it online at great planes or other R/C dealers.  It's better quality than the run of the mill super glue. 

[G_T]

You can use spray accelerators with CA glue, but the glue is stronger and clearer if you don't. I'd suggest letting it have a couple minutes to cure by itself, then kicking it just to be sure.

Thin CA can travel a very long ways. Take care applying it! It loves to stick to skin and fabric. If you do stick it, the solvent is nitromethane.

Gerald

[Daryl]

You can use spray accelerators with CA glue, but the glue is stronger and clearer if you don't. I'd suggest letting it have a couple minutes to cure by itself, then kicking it just to be sure.

Thin CA can travel a very long ways. Take care applying it! It loves to stick to skin and fabric. If you do stick it, the solvent is nitromethane.

Gerald

Gerald is right, however I suggest you do not use the kicker - at all, as the joint will be weaker if you do. Kicker is not needed.
Compressing the crack will help strengthen the crack- or cut.  If you seal a cut in your skin with CA - do NOT use kicker - that will
cause tears to squirt out of both of your eyes - it stings that much.

[Eric Krewson]

A product called "Zap-a-Gap" comes in a variety of viscosities, the real thin stuff is like water. You can buy it in hobby stores or off eBay.

[Scota4570]

https://www.amazon.com/Rockler-Cyanoacrylate-Quick-Set-Medium-Adhesive/dp/B001I9UMQ4/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ca+glue&qid=1569891044&sr=8-3

tab down to the bottom, they have a package deal with accelerator and thin glue.  You want medium thickness, some thin, and the accelerator. 


Store the accelerator away from the opened glue to prevent the glue jelling in the container.

[Don Steele]

I've used a cyanoacrylate adhesive product that I got from Brownells to repair a hairline crack on a .458 Win mag rifle.
They also offer an applicator for that product that has an extremely thin ( almost hair-like) tip that helps keep the user from squirting excess all over the work piece. As previously suggested...pull the lock and try to spread the crack open as much as possible as you are applying the adhesive directly into the split. Once you have all the adhesive in the crack that you can get in there...wrap the area VERY tightly with several wraps of small diameter surgical tubing, stretched as you wrap so that it creates tension to hold everything together. Leave it overnight, and you'll likely never have another problem.

[Marcruger]

Zap-A-Gap gap-fill super glue is excellent stuff.  Be careful with super glue, as the fumes will permanently haze certain finishes.  Do a test in a hidden spot before committing to an area that shows.   God Bless,   Marc

[Craig Wilcox]

You had asked what else would work.  I have had great results with Titebond III, and I understand that they now have a stainable version.

Stainable or not, you can put a bit on a thin piece of wood, and force it down into that crack a bit.  Then, as with the CA, compress the heck out of it with surgical tube or bicycle inner tube.  Should close down, forcing the excess out.  Clean the DRIED excess carefully and you may not even have to refinish.  Hide glue will work if you can get it thin enough to force into the crack.

Not the end of the world, for sure.  You've got a nice piece there.