Thank you for all Your replys. I'll try to answer the questions. This past year, my Focus has been trying to learn to build Locks. I have several cast Lock sets from Blackley and Kibler collecting dust. I have not dared start on them, out of fear for messing up parts that are almost impossibel to get replacements for. To me, it made sense to learn by building from scratch. If I mess up, a chunk of steel is simple to replace.
I've started on a left handed four screw stanton percussion Lock using patterns and measurments, Bob Roller kindly sendt me.
His Lock uses 4-40 screws. The closest metric size would be a 3M screw which is 0.118 inches. I really hate turning screws that skinny, so I thought buying #4 screw blanks form Brownell would be a smart alternative.
Brownell Norway had the taps, dies and blanks in Stock, but for some reasone not the tap and clearence drills.
Did some tests With the drills I got from the industrial supplier. Think the problem is solved.
Tap drill 2.3mm threads easy, but maybe shallow. Tap drill 2.2mm is a tight fit. Snapped the tap on the first attempt. Lucky I had a spare. 2.2mm tap drill Works if I back out the tap and Clear the hole for every quarter turn.
The #4 screw blank from Brownell is 2.8mm thick. The 2.9mm drill gave a Close fit.
Here is a couple Pictures of the lockplates and bridel blanks. The plates and bolsters are milled out of 7mm steel, no soldering. Bridel blanks are 8mm thick With screw clearence holes drilled. Plan to use an endmill and a turntable to mill out the posts.
Still working on the 1772 pistol Locks. Finished two, four to go. Hope to complet the four Cocks this week end. These Locks are my main Project for the last year, but I needed a break from them. Thats why I started the percussion Locks.
Best regards
Rolf