Fowler front sight

[rfd]

Although I solder electrical components almost daily x 365, I have not had an opportunity to work with "silver solder". 

A bud has a smoothbore tube that needs a front sight, probably a brass turtle type, and I'd like to get schooled on how best to mate the two. 

From what I've searched out and read so far on this board, a soft "easy" solder/flux is probably best.  However, is there any reason a quality industrial marine or aircraft epoxy couldn't be used, considering it's front sight?

TIA,
Bob.

[canadianml1]

On machined parts use soft "silver bearing" solder that is mostly lead or tin. These melt at about 450 F. Such solder and flux can be bought at TOW . True silver solders even 'easy' silver solder melt at much higher temperatures and may/will damage the barrel. Soft soldering the front sight will give a strong joint if done properly so that the sight base is surrounded with a reinforcing fillet.

JMHO

[Rich]

For solder, I like staybrite silver bearing solder. I think it melts at 450 degrees. The kit that is sold comes with the correct flux. The way I solder on a front sight is as follows: 1) mark the centerline of the top of the barrel to know where to center the sight. Drag the muzzle end of the barrel over a 3 cornered file using the flat at the breech of the barrel to keep the file on the center line. 2)Clean the sight and the barrel. 3)tin the bottom of the sight with solder. 4) form a loop of thin wire with a weight on it. I use a lead ingot. 5) put the barrel horizontally in a vise and place the sight where you want it. Flux. 6)  place the wire loop over the sight with the weight hanging below the barrel. This will hold the sight in place. 7) heat the sight and barrel until the solder melts. (If there is a lug soldered on near the sight, put a heat sink in the bottom of the barrel so you don't melt the solder holding the lug.) You do not want to use epoxy. Hot water will release the bond.   

[smylee grouch]

Use the soft solder and also place a heated copper or brass rod in the muzzle to help heat it from below as you solder the tinned sight to the barrel.

[rfd]

I will give the Stay Brite solder kit a go.

Once I better understand the process I'll do some tests with brass sheet on a barrel stub. 

I'll probably make the front sight out of that sheet brass as well.

[Eric Krewson]

I use this, super easy and you a can't knock a sight soldered with this stuff off with a sledge hammer.

[rfd]

I use this, super easy and you a can't knock a sight soldered with this stuff off with a sledge hammer.

Thanks Eric - what is your process for using this solder? I know to get the sight to fit the curve of the barrel well - then clean both surfaces (barrel and sight), flux and tin the sight base, allow to cool and sand the tinned base to smooth and thin, flux the barrel, place down and align the sight, clamp the sight, propane the sight to make the solder joint ... ?

[Daryl]

I use this, super easy and you a can't knock a sight soldered with this stuff off with a sledge hammer.

Every time I test that, I bend & dent the barrel.

[rfd]

Using Solder-It, is the goop put around the perimeter of the sight, as in the video below, or spread under the sight, or both?

[EC121]

I use the Solder-it also.  I spread it around between the surfaces, clamp it, and heat it until the flux starts to bubble up.

[rfd]

I use the Solder-it also.  I spread it around between the surfaces, clamp it, and heat it until the flux starts to bubble up.

You spread it on the base of the sight as well as the bbl?

[Daryl]

I would and sounds like it - both surfaces become "wet" with solder.
I would put the solder on the surface, little drop or puddle, place the sight in it, move it a tich, take it off and check to ensure
it is 'wet' with solder all over, both barrel and sight base - replace, clamp and heat. Heat the barrel, not the sight itself.

[rfd]

I would and sounds like it - both surfaces become "wet" with solder.
I would put the solder on the surface, little drop or puddle, place the sight in it, move it a tich, take it off and check to ensure
it is 'wet' with solder all over, both barrel and sight base - replace, clamp and heat. Heat the barrel, not the sight itself.

Great scoop, just what I needed, thank you so much sir.

Bob.