I'm new to gun building, but an experienced woodworker, so I will share my perspective. Others here may steer both of us better, though.... In general, the figure we all love, doesn't add strength. And workability wise, only adds difficulty. But in skillful, practiced hands, ascetically it is well worth the challenge, and that is why the masters used it, and still do today. Highly figured wood is used in spite of the difficulties. In my first rifle, I was seduced by the beautiful figure, but not qualified, skill wise, to do the wood justice. So I think you are wise to go with a #2. A little figure will come through to surprise you, but the consistent, even grain is more fitting for the beginner or even intermediate. Plus it is less intimidating to lay tool to wood. Just buy from one of the reputable suppliers recommended here, that assure reasonable grain flow through the wrist, and you will be fine. If possible, it sure is good to see and handle the blank you choose. My first two rifles are red maple, but adequately dense. Walnut varies so much, from area to area, and I would select that carefully as well.
I have a question here also, that I think is still on topic. There are some Amish mills in my area of Ohio, that I have used over the years. They have nice but plain sugar maple in adequate thickness, readily available at a good price. It is all kiln dryed though, and I understand that that is not as favorable as a long, air dried process. But I think it would still be fine, as long as I select and lay out the wood with a view to wrist strength. Any insight here?
