Polishing a Chambers Round Faced Germanic Lock

[JLSawyer]

Hello All,

I just received one of Chambers’ round faced Germanic jaeger flintlocks from MBS on Saturday for a future build. I bought it because I think it’s a really neat looking lock but now that I have it and can look over it up close and personal I’m second guessing using it. I’m questioning things because I’m not sure how to go about polishing it without removing the fine decorative and outlining casting details that are on the cock, pan, and lock plate. Aside from the edges and the top of the pan there’s not a flat surface on this thing. I really like the look of this lock and had my heart set on using it at some point but now I’m thinking the prep work involved with this lock is not for the faint of heart. I’m posing the question here to get insight from more experienced builders before sending it back to Ryan at MBS and exchanging it for a Chambers early Germanic lock or picking up one of Chris Laubach’s German locks. If you’ve used one of these locks on a build in the past, how did you approach it?

I’m also wondering if anyone can tell me what the casting mark is just below the frizzen spring finial? It is not a clean outline and almost looks like it doesn’t belong there. Just odd to me.

Thanks in advance for the help. Much appreciated.

[Eric Krewson]

Polishing a lock is one of those things you start when you don't have anything else to do and time doesn't matter. You can do it all with sand paper or add needle files or needle files wrapped with sand paper, I prefer all three methods. You shouldn't get aggressive enough to remove cast in engraving.

Your second picture is of a casting flaw, it may sand out or you may send the lock back for a lock plate without the flaw, I understand the Chambers folk are very easy to work with, send them your picture and see what they say.

I polished this Chambers round face English lock (and a bunch of others), I think it took a couple of days but I only worked on it a few hours until my old arthritic fingers got tired and sore then I put it up for the day.

[JLSawyer]

Polishing a lock is one of those things you start when you don't have anything else to do and time doesn't matter. You can do it all with sand paper or add needle files or needle files wrapped with sand paper, I prefer all three methods. You shouldn't get aggressive enough to remove cast in engraving.

Your second picture is of a casting flaw, it may sand out or you may send the lock back for a lock plate without the flaw, I understand the Chambers folk are very easy to work with, send them your picture and see what they say.

I polished this Chambers round face English lock (and a bunch of others), I think it took a couple of days but I only worked on it a few hours until my old arthritic fingers got tired and sore then I put it up for the day.

Eric,

Thanks for the reply. I should clarify because my post makes me sound lazy and as if I’m looking to avoid polishing the lock altogether. That is not at all the case. I understand lock polishing is a necessary evil and have every intention of polishing it. My concern is ruining the lock in the process and damaging  or removing the decorative casting marks. They are so minute that I feel like 80 grit sand paper would compromise them. The surfaces of the casting are fairly rough and will require a lot of sanding.

[577SXS]

I use stones to polish all metal parts. I use Gesswein finishing stones. You can get them in many grits and sizes. I prefer the 1/8" square or the 1/8" X 1/4" sizes. You will want a good stoning oil also. With stones you can keep the fine details and edges.

[rich pierce]

There are tutorials on lock polishing. Worth checking out.

[JLSawyer]

There are tutorials on lock polishing. Worth checking out.

Where can I find those? Search function didn’t yield any results. Thanks.

[martin9]

Is in the tutorials section under metal shaping. I think the title is lock polishing tools and techniques.

[rich pierce]

Tutorials https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?board=470.0
Metal shaping section: https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?board=473.0
Lock polishing https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=2585.0

[JLSawyer]

Tutorials https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?board=470.0
Metal shaping section: https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?board=473.0
Lock polishing https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=2585.0

Thanks Rich. Shows you what an ignorant newb I am. I didn’t even know there was a tutorial section on this forum.   

[rich pierce]

Josh, there are plenty here for years who get used to looking in just a couple areas of interest. The Tutorial section and the Museum section could use more traffic as they are great resources.

[flinchrocket]

I like to superglue wet/dry sandpaper to an old plastic rewards card or any thin plastic sheet to polish lock parts. When the edge gets shot just cut an 1/8" or so off with a pair of scissors. I start with 220 grit.

[Eric Krewson]

I don't use anything courser than 220, then there is sand paper and there is sand paper, the best quality will cut your work time in half.

[P.Bigham]

Google Congress Sones.

[P.Bigham]

Sorry Congress stones.

[Stophel]

That spot under the frizzen spring finial appears to be a flat, where the spring finial was intended to sit.  It looks like the spring ended up not quite in that position.  File it 'til it's right.   

[flinchrocket]

I don't use anything courser than 220, then there is sand paper and there is sand paper, the best quality will cut your work time in half.

I use the black wet/dry paper that auto paint & body shops use.

[Ed Wenger]

Josh..., I love this lock!  One way to dress up the details is by using “super ceramic stones” sold by Gesswein.  You can get very small sized ones that work very well for this type of work.  Best,

       Ed

[Jim Kibler]

There are definitely levels to lock finishing.  Here is what I would consider a process for a top-quality job...

Using fine files, file any areas you have access to.  For areas along a border etc, use rifler files.  Files will flatten a surface.  Stones tend to follow the existing shape much more.  Follow up the filing by using stones or backed abrasive paper.  I would work to a grit no finer than 600 and oftentimes I stop at around 400.  I don't think that a finish similar to a chrome bumper looks great or represents orginal work.  You can then use some fine scotchbrite to even the finish out.  I'll often use this in conjunction with some fine valve grinding grease and it seems to work well.

Jim

[FDR]

I apply the fine valve grinding compound to a fine wire carding brush and turn the brush ,mounted on an  arbor, in my drill press. Evens out the final finish nicely! Works great on knives also. Here is the link to the wire wheel I use.

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/wire-brushing-carding-tools/4-row-sku360164631-6762-16501.aspx

Fred

[davec2]

I use files (for large flat areas), then needle files and / or riflers where needed.  Then these sanding sticks:



They are plastic and spring loaded to hold 1/4" wide sanding belts of various grits.  I have a half a dozen of the sticks and keep one for each of the grits I use.  I use them for polishing lock parts, brass parts, barrels, and stock details.  When polishing metal I usually use them with a light oil.  The belts don't load up as much with the oil.  Here is a link to some available on Amazon but the sticks and belts are available from many sources including jewelry supply houses:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B079GHS13V?aaxitk=BjhPW.OfNRwSAJO2fZcH6w&pd_rd_i=B079GHS13V&pf_rd_p=591760d1-6468-480f-9b10-0ee9c85706fd&hsa_cr_id=9367417650701&sb-ci-n=productDescription&sb-ci-v=5%20Piece%20Sanding%20Detailer%20Stick%20Set%20with%202%20Extra%20Replacement%20Belts%20Per%20Stick%2C%205%20Grits%20120%2C%20240%2C%20320%2C%20400%20%26%20500%20Grit%20Made%20in%20The%20USA%20for%20Sanding%20Wood%2C%20Metal%20%26%20Plastics%2C%20Long%20Life%20Sanding%20Belts

And here is a set from Rio Grande.  They also have better belts.....more expensive but better.

https://www.riogrande.com/product/sanding-stick-assortment-set-of-6/337286

And, as others have said, I use stones.  Mostly the soft ones that will conform to contours quickly....again with a light oil.

Lock comes out looking like this:

[Marcruger]

Dave, I'd call that a well polished lock....and then some.  Very nice.   God Bless,   Marc