Tanning of snake skin

[Salkehatchie]

OK.  Searched and did not see anything, so am posting.

I have found some info on the net in regards to tanning of snake skin.  Was wondering if any here had personally done so.  If so, issues problems etc. encountered and solved would be appreciatted.

What I have done is to oil tan them.  They are very fragile and thin, tough to work with.  And...given the..."process" by which one "secures" copperhead and rattlesnake skins, I am NOT real hip to trial and error with my limited supplies.    

So I post.  Figured someone here knows more than I do for sure.

Thanks!

[T*O*F]

A friend did a copperhead skin for me once.  I don't know how he did it, but he said he used permanent antifreeze.  It came out nice and was pretty tough besides.

[SCLoyalist]

The recipe I was given years ago for 'snake or animal skins' goes:
1 Cup pickle lime to 1 gal water.   Soak skin for week to 10 days.  Stir liquor every 2 days.  Take skin out and wash lime off real good.

Mix 3 Tbsp Alum to gal water and soak for 3 days.  Scales on the skin will peel off.  Rinse Alum off and wash everal times wringing each time.

After wringing last time spread skin out to dry.  Some moisture needs to be left so don't let skin get hard.

As Skin becomes dry work mink oil into it with damp cloth a little at a time, working skin across board or stretching with hands as it dries.

Hog brains or brains from deer/coon/possum can be used.  Make into paste, spread on skin and leave for 24 hr.  Wash off paste and work skin as it dries.  

And, I can't tell from the paper whether the brain tan step was intended as an alternative to the mink oil step or not.   If one wanted to practice, instead of using a hard-to-replace rattler hide, a squirrel hide could be substituted to try the method out.

[LRB]

  Much would depend on what you would use it for. As a hat band, sheath overlay, or something of that nature, you can just dry them well with a generous amount of 20 Mule Team Borax. This will prevent insects and rot from eating it. You will want to remove the scales, then if you want most of the color back, coat with Tandy's Super Sheen. This is a flexable acrylic that is water based, and makes it look like it did with the scales on it. Or pretty close.

[seesbirds]

About 5 years ago I shot a pretty good size rattlesnake out behind my house.  It was a shame to throw it out so I peeled the skin off and then tanned it with glycerine.  You can buy that in a drug store.  It worked great!  The skin never dried out, didn't lose scales and is supple to this day.

Mark Preston

[wormey]

I used antifreeze on a nice one I killed and backed a longbow with it and one other.  Came out very well.  Three or four days will do it.

[Salkehatchie]

Thanks guys!  Picked up some new info.  I used alum and neatsfoot oil.  I maybe need to soak it some more.  And a lot of good home remedies presented.  Am going to print these out and save.

Interesting how on some apps the scales come off and some it does not.  Mine, did.

Again, thank you.

[KLMoors]

I just did a water moccasin skin with a 50/50 mixture of rubbing alchohol and glycerin.  I got the recipie on the net. I soaked it for 3 days. It has been drying for a few days now and it seems real nice. Supple and tough.

[track3]

I've done 4 or 5 rattlers using glycerine. I tacked and stretched it on a board and soaked it in glycerine. I checked it every few days and reapplied the glycerine until it wouldn't take any more. The skins remain flexible and relatively soft.

[JTR]

I second, third, or fourth, Glycerine!

A long time ago when I worked on fishing boats, I did a lot of sea snake skins with the stuff, and about 25 years ago did a rattle snake skin for a hat band. I still have the hat, and the skin is still soft and supple with no scale loss.

I didn't stretch the skin, instead put the glycerine on it and rolled it up. I did that for 4 or 5 days until the glycerine wouldn't soak in any longer.

John

[Rolf]

I googled snake tanning and found several taxidermy forums with several posts warning against using glycerin on snake skins. In general they recommended using a commercial snake/ reptile tanning kit  like one of these http://www.taxidermy.com
Hope this helps. I have no personal experience with snake skins.

Best regards

Rolfkt

[Roger Fisher]

Rattlers: Rubbed with alum to toughen 'em then rubbed in the glycerine to soften them a tad.  backed with ticking to apply to belt/belts.    Lasted maybe 6 yrs of use til tears/rips started to appear.  Probably the wrong method; but thats the way I did it.

[Lee]

I tanned a diamondback a number of years ago by splitting it up the belly, used push tacks to mount it on a 1x8 board, applied a vigorous coat of salt to dry it,  let it sit a few days, rinsed off the salt, and applied glycerine.  Seemed to work pretty well.  Thought I'd mention this process because nobody above mentioned the use of salt....
Lee

[LRB]

  Borax does the same as salt, but gives better protection against insects, if that might be a concern.

[Bruce]

Occum's Razor; the simple is usually the best.

1) CAREFULLYremove head and dispose properly.
2) Skin snake.
3) Rub skin with borax and stretch out on board to dry.
4) Soak in anti-freeze or glycerin till soft.
5) While this is going on, eat the snake meat, just "like chicken" but without the feet, legs and feathers.

                                                             BHB

[Salkehatchie]

I may just use the glycerin option next time.  I used alum this time, so maybe something else to compare to.

Now this is just "trivia" but my Cherokee buddies in OK say that rattlers are OK, but coppies skin and meat may contain a residual venom.  They claim one must handle with care.

Heck if I know. 

Thanks