Thank you

[Woodstock]

I posted advice needed on a good vise about a month ago. I wound up with a Gun Stock Carving Vise. The jaws swivel 360 and you can put it in just about any position. Just a little over a 100 bucks. I just dropped a load on the parts to build my first Flintlock. I am going all the way on this one. All the way to doing some carving on the stock. Any suggestions on chisel sets? I have looked at them on the net until my eyes turned red and I am still at a loss. Not sure what I will need as I have not decided on a pattern yet. I figured if I could find a set with a good verity of chisels, I could make them work. Not a lot of cash left. Mid price range would be nice but I want good quality for the money. The best bang for the buck you might say.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.

[ehoff]

I know some people who like the Flexcut line of tools. I started with a cheap set of carving tools.  If I had to do it over I'd have bought Pfeil chisels form the start.  They cost more but the quailty is there. Woodcraft offers a "intermediate" size tool in sets and singles, some of the small sets are very reasonable (set A $129.99 for six tools).

[flehto]

When I started out a moderately priced set of chisels was bought and as I really got into building, some chisels of the set  were seldom used, if at all. Saw the need for addt'l chisels and tools and these were purchased as single items. By the way....the first moderately priced chisels are still being used on a daily basis....Fred

[rich pierce]

There are several approaches to carving that broadly fall into the "stabbing" and the "parting tool" schools.  Gary Brumfield (Flintriflesmith) is a teacher and advocate of the stabbing technique requiring just one little homemade tool for stabbing in a design.  Then a small selection of chisels is used to relieve background, and a few small gouges may be used to shape or model any relief carving.  Others outline their designs with a parting tool then use a similar tool set for modeling.

The stabbing technique offers great control- no danger of slip-ups.  I'd advise deciding what approach you will take, reading books, looking at websites and tutorials here and elsewhere, before buying a tool set.

I use a wider variety of tools for stabbing, all quickly and roughly made from saw blade pieces or drill rod filed to shape (the 2 on the right).  These will fit most any curve of any design and speed up the stabbing process for me.  But the builders who use one little tool get very facile with it.

[Ky-Flinter]

These little gouges and chisels are nice, well made little tools and very reasonable priced.  Power Grip by Mikisyo Tools, sold by lots of woodworking supply houses.  Set of 7 is under $40.  They offer several sweeps in different widths individually for $6 or $7.  Woodcraft had a sale on them last year $3.95  I've bought a bunch of other higher priced gouges since and I'm always reaching for these.  Google Powergrip chisel   You can get started for low $.


-Ron

[Ky-Flinter]

Rich was posting same time as me.  I must admit the PowerGrip tools ain't got the soul that Rich's tools have!

-Ron

[Darrin McDonal]

The ones Woodcraft,Wood Carvers Supply or Lee Valley sells (Pfeil, Lamp) are as good as any. You get what you pay for. I aquired chisels as I needed them and not by the set which is what I would recomend.
Darrin

[rich pierce]

Rich was posting same time as me.  I must admit the PowerGrip tools ain't got the soul that Rich's tools have!

-Ron

"Soul" is one way of describing it.  Those Powergrip tools look good.  Can't buy handles and steel for those prices.  I really like short bladed chisels for most gun work.

[Darrin McDonal]

Rich, what type of saw blade did you start with? Circular or a hand saw?
Darrin

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

These are wonderful tools for your fine carving:

MICRO DETAIL CARVING SETS Perfect for carving fine details & cleaning up otherwise impossible to reach areas. Precision made & razor sharpened from properly hardened Rc 58 steel for a lasting edge. 1.5mm, 2mm & 3mm sets have: square, double bevel & skew chisels, deep gouge & V-tool. Expansion set contains: 5mm deep gouge, 2 & 3mm dog-leg chisels, 2.5mm V-tool & 4mm deep gouge Length 5". U.S.A.

Here is where you get them:http://www.woodcarverssupply.com/store/default.asp



For larger work I like Pfiel from WoodCraft

[Stophel]

Rich, I like how you made them "in-gouges"...sharpened on the inside...where they should be!  Hard to sharpen, though, but can be done.  I really need to make some for myself.  At least some smaller ones.

I'm beginning to use the V tool for most everything, but still, you have to stab some elements, usually those that are just too small/tightly curved.  Once you get the hang of the V tool, it is surprisingly easy to use.

[rich pierce]

Rich, what type of saw blade did you start with? Circular or a hand saw?
Darrin

The four tools on the left were from power hacksaw blades.  Hand saw stock might be stiff enough since these are short.  I forged the curves in using old antique gouges of different radii as the "swage".

16 penny masonry nails are my favorite source of steel for small custom shaped chisels and knives now.  Buy a small box for less than $5 and you have enough for a hundred chisels or small springs.  For chisels or small carving knives, skew knives, etc, the shaft is already tapered for inserting into a handle, you KNOW the steel is tough, and there's enough there to draw out (forge) to 1/2" wide.  I grind the "head" down to the shaft size before forging using a propane torch and a couple of fire bricks to focus and hold the heat.

Except when I use them for forging patchbox springs with heads protruding from the buttplate.  Then I keep the head on and peen it wider.

[Acer Saccharum]

Woodstock, avoid sets, since you end up paying for tools you don't need.

I am asking a belated question, but one worth asking:

What are you wanting to use the chisels for?

a) decorative carving
b) inletting
c) stock shaping
d) all of the above

I ask, because each answer would require a slightly different kind of tool. But you can probably start with six tools  that would cover all the above, but they are not likely to be found all in one set.

parting tool, 90 degree, 1/4 wide max
gouge, 7" to 9" long, sturdy, 3/4" wide #3 sweep -for stock shaping
flat chisel, 7" to 9" long, sturdy, 1/4 wide - for inletting (tang, guard extensions, vertical cuts)
flat chisel, 7" to 9" long, sturdy, 1/16 wide - for inletting (lock inlets, inlays)
fishtail gouge, Pfiel, 15 mmwide, #3 sweep- for backgrounding and stock shaping
fishtail gouge, palm length, 6 mmwide, #5 sweep- for backgrounding and decorative carving

a #49 Nicholson rasp

a handfull of home made scrapers for stock shaping, backgroundiing, cleaning up carving, etc.

[Woodstock]

As always good help.
 I am leaning toward the power Grip set. I have attempted to make a few out of a $2.00 hand saw I picked up at a yard sale. The handles are close to the ones I made and are right in line with the budget. I would use the ones I made but I cannot seem to get them sharp enough. I have a chisel sharpener with a wheel on the back and adjustable to fit the angel and keep it constant but they just will not sharpen up the way I want them. I was carful not to overheat while grinding the shape. Could be the steel. I have a few other saw blades lying around so I guess I will keep at it. I would much rather use tools with SOUL than store bought but I am a bit anxious to get started practicing before the parts get here. Never done this before and the though of messing up a $300.00 stock is a bit unnerving. Once underway I hope you guys don’t mind me bugging you for a few pointers when a run into a problem. I am sure there will be a few. I already have one that I did not know I had to do until I ordered the parts. Drilling and tapping for the vent liner. Not to sure about that one. 

Many Thanks

[Acer Saccharum]

Don't worry about messing up. You will mess up. That's part of the nature of the game. As a side benefit, you will learn to fix most all your mistakes.

Tom

[Woodstock]

Acer, once again you are correct. I cannot count the number of mess ups on my first wire inlay job. I managed to cover-up most of them by changing up the pattern a little bit. I am hoping I can do the same with the carving.

[Woodstock]

Acer,

I missed your question earlier. It would be D, all of the above. There will be a considerable amount of inletting to be done. The offer was made by the vender to inlet the stock up to about 90%. I could not see doing that. If I did, I would always have the question, who actually built the gun. I all want is it roughed in enough to make sure all is at least in the right place. I would attempt it from scratch with no pre-inletting but I do not want to drag it out for a couple of years.

[Acer Saccharum]

You sure can fix carving. At worst, you have to modify the design. Sometimes you can cut a tad lower, and re-background. Best is to practice on some scrap, get used to the technique you will be using, and the feel of the tool. This also points out whether your tools are sharp enough.

Good luck, and keep us posted!

Tom

[Acer Saccharum]

Good choice on nixing the 90% inletting. I find the inlets are sometimes bigger than the parts, and that you cannot move the lock neither up nor down, nor back nor forth, so you can find yourself into quite a pickle.

[Darrin McDonal]

I like the idea of the concrete nails. I have to try that.
Darrin