Pinning a Single Trigger??

[Majorjoel]

I have always used single triggers that were pinned in the trigger plate steel riser.  I have never done one in the stock wood and was wondering how you do it so everything lines up properly??

All tips and tricks are very welcome and much appreciated! Joel

[rich pierce]

I locate it about 3/8” in front of the sear bar and as high above as possible.

[Eric Krewson]

Rich is right, I use 5/16 and get a 3# trigger almost every time, one came out 2.5#, I have one of those fancy digital trigger scales.

[smylee grouch]

I also try for about 5/16-3/8 and pin close to even with sear or just above.

[Jim Kibler]

I prefer in the range of 1/2” or maybe a touch more.  This helps to minimize trigger pull distance (creep) and you can still easily end up with a 2-2.5 pound pull with a properly built lock.  I could be off, but I think this sort of distance is more representative of that I’ve seen on original work. 

Jim

[wapiti22]

I'm assuming that the  5/16. 3/8, 1/2" distance you are quoting is the distance from the pin to the sear?

Asking for a friend??

[Steeltrap]

Ok,

If I'm reading your question correctly you want to know how to get the pin (trigger pin that will be the pivot point) to be the correct distance from the sear bar, and also be parallel to the bottom of the rifle. (Not drill the pin on a slant\slope\etc)

Watch this video: and you will see how to get the perfect alignment for the tang screw to line up with the trigger plate (drilling through the stock). What you want to do is use this type of setup\jig to align your pivot pin in the stock.

That bolt he took and ground the tip to a point is what you need.....along with a drill press.

To locate the pin in the correct distance you want, first measure (dial caliper works great....plunger end) from the bottom of the stock where the trigger will be when installed....to the sear bar (cock the lock to get this measurement). Then, once you have that distance, measure it on the outside of your stock and place a small mark on the left side.....and the same measurement on the right side. You know the distance from the bottom of your stock to the cocked sear bar.....now just draw a circle of the maximum distance (I've used 1/4") you want the pivot point to be from that sear bar. You want to locate your pivot "bar" inside that "max circle" so that you have your distance....and the trigger shoe is in the proper place.

Now...before you drill take your pivot pin and hold it where you have marked the hole...you want to make sure the trigger shoe is not to far forward or back from where it's going to protrude through the trigger plate. Some "eyeballing" here will be crucial.

You may need someone to help you hold the stock when you drill the pivot pin hole, but you just place one side of the stock (where you made the measurement spot) on that bolt point that you ground, and start to drill beginning at the "other spot" you marked on the opposite side of the stock.

Drill almost down to where the drill bit is going to contact.....or break through the stock and STOP!!  Then finish the pivot pin hole with a hand drill. If you make contact with that bolt\jig you made with the drill bit....stuff will happen that you don't want to happen.

I hope what I'm trying to explain helps and I hope I'm answering your question.

[StevenV]

That is the only way I attach trigger to gun stock is to pin it separately thru the stock. I use a finishing nail .070 diameter.
Three things I do:
1) distance from sear engagement to pin 1/2"
2) pin it high , equal to height of center of tumbler hole, pin and center of tumbler hole are the same distance up for the bottom of lock
3) there is an angle on the actual trigger towards back of lock angled down about 40 degrees  so when you pull the trigger sear engagement lifts sear rather than push sear up with a straight angle back to the tail of the lock.         
Steve

[Majorjoel]

A humble thanks for all of the reply's!

My concerns about pinning in a trigger through the stock are of coarse meant to address getting it right as to ending up with a smooth, light pull without creep.  Also most importantly is to drill the pin hole ONLY ONCE and done. 

Not ever having done this as I mentioned above, I will assume that this hole is drilled inside the open lock mortice and exiting the stock through the side plate side area.  Also that the pin once installed can be fairly easily removed as needed for tweeking if need be.   I know, pretty basic and dumb questions but not even having a finished example to study, I want to make sure I get this.

I have a half stock Germanic fowler parts set acquired from Ron Scott a few years ago that came with the trigger and plate requiring stock pinning. The trigger has a predrilled hole already there for the pin but lining things up for drilling and hitting this hole are a concern.   

Thanks again to all,  Joel

I

[smylee grouch]

I have seen the trigger pin from lock mortice exit in the side plate mortice and you will see them exit out side of that showing on the side plate panel.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Here's a simple method I have used to locate the hole through the wood to mount a simple trigger.  This system yields a light trigger pull with no creep and a clean break.
First picture shows the trigger I made for a Herman Rupp style rifle.  You can see that the blade is high and that the hole is already drilled.


The second picture shows the trigger clamped to the lock panel in the exact position I want the trigger to be once inlet into the bottom of the stock.  This places the pivot hole about 5/8" back of the pivot and level with the sear screw.  In this way, you can align the drill in the press with the hole already in the trigger, so that it enters the lock inlet exactly where it needs to go.  The barrel is secured in a vise clamped to the drill press table.  the drill bit is 1/16" and run at high speed.


This last pic shows the trigger pinned in its slot in the wood and the relationship of the pivot pin and the blade with the intersection of the sear arm

[ed lundquist]

Great thread with good info, very clear Taylor.  Thanks guys,  this will bring consistent results

[Majorjoel]

Here's a simple method I have used to locate the hole through the wood to mount a simple trigger.  This system yields a light trigger pull with no creep and a clean break.
First picture shows the trigger I made for a Herman Rupp style rifle.  You can see that the blade is high and that the hole is already drilled.


The second picture shows the trigger clamped to the lock panel in the exact position I want the trigger to be once inlet into the bottom of the stock.  This places the pivot hole about 5/8" back of the pivot and level with the sear screw.  In this way, you can align the drill in the press with the hole already in the trigger, so that it enters the lock inlet exactly where it needs to go.  The barrel is secured in a vise clamped to the drill press table.  the drill bit is 1/16" and run at high speed.


This last pic shows the trigger pinned in its slot in the wood and the relationship of the pivot pin and the blade with the intersection of the sear arm

Taylor, you have completely taken away my anxiety for this task with your pictorial explanation!  I cannot thank you enough for taking the time and trouble for doing this! 

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

You are most welcome.  Enjoy your build.