sandblasting before browning

[Jim Curlee]

Not that I'd try it, but just wondering if anybody here has ever tried sandblasting before browning the metal parts, and just leaving the sandblasted texture?

Jim

[JPK]

Yes, and after all that work the finish looked like a factory job. I sanded it and re-browned it.

[Daniel Coats]

I did it once back in 1978 and liked it.

[smylee grouch]

On two rifles I finished the barrel down to 320 grit then went over the top flat with 100 grit thinking it might help cut down any glair. It might have helped. 

[409]

I always sand blast all the metal parts with fine sand, It leaves a nice surface for the solution to bond to and you don't have to be so careful when handling the parts. I always file the parts first. Try it on a piece of scrap.

[Hank01]

Why not try it? Be interesting to see how it looks.

Hank

[Jim Curlee]

Plannin on it.

[Scota4570]

I've done it. I used a harbor freight gun and their black grit. 

It leaves a very rough texture with micro "spurs" sticking up.  I knock those off with maroon scotchbrite.  With slow rust brown it comes out a thick mat rust kind of thing.   It seems to help the solution bite quickly. 

I do not see much difference between file, to 320, scothbrite, then rust. 

I have not tried bead blasting.  I it looks nice with modern blue.  Maybe there are possibilities.  It may obliterate some finishing marks with out making a rough surface??   

[flehto]

All the parts that are browned are finished w/  220 grit paper and the browning produces an etched finish....Fred

[MarkK]

I sandblast before browning. blueing, or leaving it in a bare metal.  For gun parts, knives and other metal pieces. 

Currently use Black Aluminum Oxide 70 Grit Abrasive Media from Harbor Freight. 

[Nazgul]

Bought a sand blast cabinet and fine garnet compound 20 years ago. Used it on several handguns, mainly stainless. It leaves a very fine satin finish. Always thought it would make a nice non glare finish on a long rifle. Will be using it on another barrel before finishing, not sure if it will blued or browned yet.

Don

[J Shingler]

That is pretty much the finish on most factory gun locks.  If you file on any parts to get the casting marks off and have that shiny spot. I have used the blast cabinet to hit those spots. Matches perfectly to the factory finish. It takes a brown just fine. I have also done aa pistol barrel that way.

Jeff

[hudson]

I have a Harbor freight blast cabinet and use their finest glass beads on small parts with good luck. I have not tried it on a barrel. I have a friend who builds who is always bringing in parts to be bead blasted even though he has a sand blast set up.

[Dphariss]

Not that I'd try it, but just wondering if anybody here has ever tried sandblasting before browning the metal parts, and just leaving the sandblasted texture?

Jim

If you want it tool look like some 20th c factory made thing I guess its OK. Properly done browning or rust blue is not that shiny. Unless its polished past 320 grit first.
And I don’t brown/blue anything but the barrel.
Locks are supposed to be case hardened and iron/steel  TG etc were likely hardened ot heat blued in one way or another  and then (or not) darkened/blackened with an oil quench and the oil then burnt off.

Kasenit hardened as it came from the quench its not a deep case but its enough to reduce wear and friction. If one wanted they could remove the gray color with chrome polish or some such and make it bright I guess.