Shooting my flintlock for the first time

[HighUintas]

I'm planning to take my flintlock build to the range today for the first time. The only things I have left to do are fit some proper flat head screws to the patchbox and learn how to engrave (probably won't happen for at least 6 months). So, I think I'm at the point that I need to get to shooting!

I have a lot of questions. I'll ask only 2 because I'm sure researching will provide the other answers.

1- how do you handle the post clean bore lube before shooting? Just swab it out? Do you swab the bore with your shooting lube (like mink oil) for storage so you don't have to swab it out before loading?

2- I thought I found a pretty comprehensive 'everything you need to know' for starting shooting muzzeloaders but can't find it now. Does anyone know if such a website link or thread on here?

[Eric Krewson]

Always swab your bore out before your initial loading, always.

People use a variety of things in their bore for storage, I don't know how mink oil stacks up, there are better things. I use 30W motor oil, have used Balistol, 3 in 1 oil, Rig gun grease, Barricade and others. The only lube I used that failed terribly was Remington gun oil, I found I had rusting and pitting in the only M/L I owned at the time after I used it.

[HighUintas]

Thanks, Eric.

I typically use a spray CRC oil to protect my other rifle bores, but it certainly would contaminate the powder if I didn't get it swabbed out thoroughly.

With the jag that I have and the deep round grooves of my barrel, I'm afraid that just running a couple of dry patches with that to swab out the CRC oil wouldn't get enough of it out. So I was thinking I'd either protect it with mink oil, or try to find some other patch attachment tool that allows me to jam a big wad of t shirt material down there to make sure I'm soaking up all the oil I've put in the bore.

[MuskratMike]

If you are referring to how to lube the bore after cleaning for storage it's WD-40. If you are referring to cleaning the bore of oil residue before shooting I have found that wiping down the inside with 97% isopropyl alcohol will rid the barrel of any oily or greasy residue from storage. 1 or 2 swipes down the barrel with a cleaning patch will do. It dries in minutes. Been doing this for years and won't even consider anything else.

[Leatherbark]

Once at a shooting match I sprayed some 91% alcohol or maybe it was stove fuel alcohol down the barrel of my Tip Curtis flintlock and swabbed up and down real fast. All of a sudden there was a "Pow" from the touchhole. I must have "Diesel'd" the alcohol.  Sounded like a toy cap gun. I still use an alcohol patch to clear out the WD-40 and CLP but swab slower.

[HighUintas]

Thanks for the advices.

I'll have to get some alcohol to throw in my bag.

It sure was a hoot shooting today, but man did it get hard to load after awhile. I was shooting schuetzen, which shouldn't be a huge fouler, but I think the heat baked the fouling on faster than I could get them loaded (used really tight patch and TOTW mink oil, so shouldn't need to swab out bore). I nearly had the last couple rounds stuck in the bore and had to drive them down

[smylee grouch]

What is the ball size, bore specs, patch thickness? It almost sounds like your getting some blow by for some reason. 

[HighUintas]

58 colerain round groove. I haven't slugged it, but I assume it's close to their stated .58 and .016 groove depth.

Patches are joann's denim, either 12 or 14oz I can't remember. It measures 0.023 with my calipers after washing. Saturated with mink oil. I've smoothed the crown with sand paper and my thumb like Daryl recommends.

A couple of patches looked a little iffy on a small spot, but most looked really good.

When looking at the bore through my scope, the lands look really rough, almost like they're threaded in some spots. It feels like there's some right spots in there... Not sure if it's tightness or roughness.

[Hatchet-Jack]

Yea you shouldn't have to "ram" the ball down like that or fight a stuck ball, no fun!

It sounds like your mink oil is not softening the fouling. I've never had luck using a Tallow lube to shoot all day at the range, maybe some have but I'm sure they wipe the bore. Unless you are working up a hunting load where you need a Tallow type lube why not try a wet lube? Just try some "Spit" patch, I use it when shooting a woods walk, loading from the bag. I use Murphy's Oil and Water at the range. Also try a thinner patch or a smaller ball. You don't need it so tight that you have to "ram" it home, you should be able to push the ball down.

[HighUintas]

Yes I was going to try a wetter lube next time. I'll likely try running steel wool or scotch Brite down the bore a lot to smooth it a bit and if that doesn't help I'll find a thinner patch. My patch and ball size were both determined on availability and getting a slight compression by calculating from bore + groove diameter and ball + double patch thickness. The next step thinner patch available was much much thinner.

If all else fails, I'll try to find a thinner patch again.

[Hatchet-Jack]

I smoothed one with maroon scotch brite, worked great!

If you have a Joann Fabrics or can order online take a look at unbleached #40 drill fabric. It's about .015 - .018 if I recall. Very tight weave to be strong enough to make jeans pockets, much tighter weave than pillow ticking I've found.

[Bob Roller]

If you are referring to how to lube the bore after cleaning for storage it's WD-40. If you are referring to cleaning the bore of oil residue before shooting I have found that wiping down the inside with 97% isopropyl alcohol will rid the barrel of any oily or greasy residue from storage. 1 or 2 swipes down the barrel with a cleaning patch will do. It dries in minutes. Been doing this for years and won't even consider anything else.

Mike's answer reminds me of a signature I saw on a forum in England.It said"I can't remember the question but the answer is alcohol".
Maybe the now long departed Muzzle Loaders International.
Bob Roller