Soldering a rear lug on trigger guard

[Steeltrap]

In my current project I'm re-purposing a T\C Hawken trigger guard. Aside from cutting off that flat out ugly curve spur they had, I've cut off the lugs on the front and rear of the TG.

So, I want to pin the rear of the reshaped TG and need to solder a lug (the piece I hacksawed off) so I can pin the rear to the stock.

My question is, would a "soft solder" hold the lug strong enough or do I need to look to a "harder" solder for this purpose?

Thanks!

PS...the front of the TG I intend to drill\tap and screw it to the trigger plate.....in a fashion similar to a "real" Hawken TG install. You won't see the screw in the front when I'm done.

[Eric Kettenburg]

I would not trust a soft solder unless you rivet the new lug/tab to the extension first.  Otherwise you really need a silver solder of some kind.

[smylee grouch]

I have done two as Eric suggested. I used a brass rod, 1\4 inch I think. I counter sunk and riveted the annealed lug then soldered it.

[Eric Krewson]

I have used solder paste for a variety of "fixes", I used it on my fowler underlugs and tried to knock one off with a hammer just to see how strong the bond was, I couldn't knock the lug off.

Fast forward; somehow, I screwed up the rear lug on the steel trigger guard (second build) and found out I needed a longer one. I cut off the old lug and used solder paste to install another one. 10 years down the road and a bunch of wood miles, it is holding just fine.



I have used the paste for underlugs, other lugs, adding metal to a trigger bar and other things, I have never had a failure so far.

[2 shots]

 i also have soft soldered a tab on without issue. clean well and ave at it

[rich pierce]

I have soft soldered on a folded up tab that is constructed like an underlug made of folded sheet metal. More surface area. Seems to work.

[Steeltrap]

Thanks Gent's.  This old T\C TG must have some additional metals in it as it doesn't file quite as quickly as other brass I've done. Then again, I'm not a big fan of brass anyway. I prefer steel.

But this will get a youth rifle built and make some use out of the old TG.

[smylee grouch]

One thing to consider. Will there ever be a sling tied to the trigger guard?  Merely soft soldering a tab on it MIGHT not be as secure as you want for that application. 

[Steeltrap]

One thing to consider. Will there ever be a sling tied to the trigger guard?  Merely soft soldering a tab on it MIGHT not be as secure as you want for that application. 

That’s a valid consideration. But if a sling would be used it will be one that slips over the butt and is leather tied to the barrel. When I’m gone from this planet….it will be someone else’s issue.

[J Shingler]

I have used the 95 / 5 low temp tin/silver solder with great results. Never had one pull off. I got mine from Brownells called Hi force 44 but it's nothing super special. Important to clean and use the proper Flux.

[Matt Evans]

If it’s brass why don’t you just braze it on? I’ve brazed some thinner material than a trigger guard more than once without deforming. I like rod that is flux coated for fine work.

[Steeltrap]

If it’s brass why don’t you just braze it on? I’ve brazed some thinner material than a trigger guard more than once without deforming. I like rod that is flux coated for fine work.

I don't have the tools nor the expertise for that. I tried welding when I was 18. After several attempts I learned that welding wasn't in my tool box. I just did a silver solder job....came out fine...well.....for me anyway!