Incised lock and side plate panels on fowler

[Lone Wolf]

The minimalistic beavertails I was going for on the lock and side plate panels of this fowler didn't turn out as I expected.  The question is should I leave them be, or should I lop them off so the panels come to a point as depicted in the last picture... because the panels are incised all the way around, would it be appropriate to bring them to a point?  I haven't seen too many incised panels that just come to a point with no beavertail or similar flare.  Thoughts?

[Lone Wolf]

bump

[smart dog]

Hi,
First, you are carving the moldings too early in the game before fully forming the wrist and lock areas. Shape your forearm and the rest of the stock to almost finished form before working on the moldings.  I think you still have enough extra wood to make over any moldings that you want.  Here is an original high end English gun with no moldings whatsoever, so they don't always have the beaver tails.







In my opinion, tiny beaver tails with a big lock like the Chambers round faced lock are an aesthetic mistake.  IMO either make them good sized or not at all.  Also thin the flats around the lock very thin to almost vanishing.  Prominent flats around a big 1750s English lock is a dead give away for a modern made gun. On the side plate  side round down the step by the barrel breech as in the gun shown above and make that panel more closely form fit the side plate even if it assumes a shape that differs from the lock side.  Just make sure the both sides begin and end at about the same locations on each side but beyond that they can differ a lot.  Here are some examples on a gun I made and 2 originals.




















dave

[Lone Wolf]

Thank you smart dog.  Is it OK to have mouldings around the panels without the beavertails?

[Mike Brooks]

Thank you smart dog.  Is it OK to have mouldings around the panels without the beavertails?

No. He's trying to tell you that no lock moldings at all is a common thing on english fowling guns.

[Lone Wolf]

Thank you smart dog.  Is it OK to have mouldings around the panels without the beavertails?

No. He's trying to tell you that no lock moldings at all is a common thing on english fowling guns.

Maybe I'm using the wrong terminology.  Would it be appropriate to have a lock panel that has the incised "moulding" around it but no beavertail? 

[Mike Brooks]

No, it would not. You have enough wood left you can eliminate what you have on there now.

[bluenoser]

No, it would not. You have enough wood left you can eliminate what you have on there now.

Mike,
It might be helpful if you were a little more specific.  It sounds as though Lone Wolf would like to retain the moldings.  Are you saying that molding lines such as these were NEVER used on English fowling guns of the period?  If they were just not  "a common thing", that leaves the door open to a bit of artistic license.  That said, I would not go with the moldings if it were my project.

[Lone Wolf]

Okay, I am leaning toward eliminating the beaver tails and "incised moulding" around the panels. What would be the correct way to terminate the end of the shell carving at tang and breech area, since this would not wrap around to the side panels like it does now?

[Mike Brooks]

No, it would not. You have enough wood left you can eliminate what you have on there now.

Mike,
It might be helpful if you were a little more specific.  It sounds as though Lone Wolf would like to retain the moldings.  Are you saying that molding lines such as these were NEVER used on English fowling guns of the period?  If they were just not  "a common thing", that leaves the door open to a bit of artistic license.  That said, I would not go with the moldings if it were my project.

I'll go bold and say incised moldings we're never done on English guns
And, before anyone else jumps me let me state " It's his gun and he can do it how he wants".
 Also, he needs too refer to originals and then he'll know for sure.

[James Rogers]

Okay, I am leaning toward eliminating the beaver tails and "incised moulding" around the panels. What would be the correct way to terminate the end of the shell carving at tang and breech area, since this would not wrap around to the side panels like it does now?

[smart dog]

Hi,









dave

[Lone Wolf]

Well, the job to remove the mouldings is underway and so far so good.  Can't say enough how much I appreciate the advice on here helping to get me out of another pickle. 

Years ago, when I was building my first rifle an old timer told me about stock shaping, "keep removing wood until you think you've removed too much, then remove a little more."  That is definitely holding true in this case.

[smart dog]

Hi,
If you gradually taper the surface of the lock mortise inward exposing more of the bolster toward the pan fence and angle the top of the stock more flush with the barrel, there is no need for the notch to clear the flint cock.







dave