re-finish question

[sghart3578]

Thanks to everyone who contributed to my other two threads about guns and gun building.  I'm sure it must get tiring trying to answer questions from newbies but this forum is a tremendous asset to guys like me who are trying to learn.

I recently purchased a rifle from a forum member here.  It is finished in beeswax and linseed oil.  If I wanted to make the finish darker how would I remove the old finish?  Can I scrape?  Or use a chemical remover?  I don't know.

Thanks for your time.

[Bigmon]

Not sure, but I don't think you can ever get rid of a beeswax finish?  I saw a demo once and they were applying it with a heat gun and it was coming clear thru the wood?

[rich pierce]

Mineral spirits wouldn’t hurt anything and are worth a try. Really soak it and paper towel it. Use the paper towels to start an intentional fire. I’d not leave them in the trash.

[Bigmon]

Perhaps after trying the mineral spirits, or even something stringer like lacquer thinner, you might be able to stain up some mineral spirits and soak that in?? Then let it dry out and put a finish over it?
I think you will be able to darken it up as you want, but might not get a finish to stick?  Maybe an oil finish that penetrates??

[AZshot]

I had a 100 yr old shotgun with AAA walnut but it was badly oil soaked.  Black.  I soaked it in acetone for 20 min, wiped it off, put it back in the tub...repeated about 5 times until it was bare wood.

[Gaeckle]

How about a picture? I would think that lightly scraping would work

[sghart3578]

I will get some photos posted.  Thanks very much.

[Bigmon]

That's what I was trying to think of!!  ACETONE, always works for me.
I used to but old surplus military guns from CMP, etc.  Most were always very oil soaked.
I would lay them in the hot sun on black plastic and the oil would just run out of them.  Like old wood school floore, if anyone has experienced those on hot days in school?
Then I'd brush on the acetone over and over in an old cake pan until it was really dirty and full of oil.
Then clean acetone and start over, over and over until happy.
Never actually immersed and soaked in acetone, probably would work best. 

[davec2]

The acetone will work even quicker and better if you mix it into a slurry with Brownells Whiting (mostly calcium carbonate) and paint it all over the stock.  As the acetone loosens the oil (or wax) it is drawn into the whiting.  Leave it for a while and you will see the white coating darken.  Brush it off when dry and repeat as needed.

https://www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/gun-tools/stock-finishing/old-fashioned-whiting/

[flatsguide]

I’d try a saturated solution of TSP (trisodiumphosphate) in hot water with a nylon dishwasher “sponge” to scrub the finish off. It may bleach the wood a bit but it will be oil and grease free ready for stain or finish.
Richard

[Dphariss]

I dunno who decided that beewax is a stock finish. I know someone who used to use beeswax in large amounts and understands it very well. If you tell him you are using it for stock finish (and he knows gun building as well) he will look at you as if you have something wrong with you. Waxes are not stock finishes. Some may be used to help protect, make slippery or shine surfaces. But they are not a protectant since they tend to melt at very low temperatures. This is one reason floor wax makes a good release agent for firearms bedding compounds.