Stainless boiling tanks?

[Scota4570]

For rust blueing.  I want to get a tank for a shorter barrel.  28" tank is long enough.  I have heard of chick feeders, window boxes and such.  What are some sources for smaller stainless tanks? 

I have tried the steam in a pipe trick with limited success. 

[45-110]

I just got my new stainless 44" tank and lid off Ebay. Made by a US company that is known for maple syrup production. Its beautifully made to the length you want.  Use the search word "parkerizing tank". My old steel Brownells tank did last 30 yrs. or so but is so nasty its needs sand blasting.

[B.Habermehl]

I use PVC pipe. Set up vertically with a large reducer fitting on top to act as a funnel. As long as needed. Cap on bottom with three 1/8 holes for drainage. Glue all fittings. Simply suspend your barrel in the pipe and pour boiling water over the barrel, filling the pipe. I use a turkey fryer to boil my water and a saucepan for a ladle. Wear a plastic chemical apron for spill protection. The barrel will get plenty hot to convert the rust. BJH

[foresterdj]

I use a horizontal PVC and pour in boiling water.

[Scota4570]

I have tried using a pressure cooker to fill a verticle ABS pipe with steam.  I got to much condensation and it ruined the finish.  Any tips on making that work?  Maybe preheat the barrel?

[snapper]

You had asked about getting a SS tank so I did not reply, however, you do not need a SS tank for this.   

I use a downpipe for a house gutter system with one side cut out to be open.   Put 90 degree elbows on the ends to keep the water in.    Simply, easy and cheap.    Make it any size.  They are AL so it wont rust.

fleener

[Scota4570]

What kind of glue do you use the seal the ends?

[okawbow]

I hang the barrel in a 2” plastic pipe and pour in boiling rain water. Works great every time. Cheap and easy.

[snapper]

I dont remember for sure what I used to seal the ends, but it was whatever I had on hand.   Siding, door more likely.   Screwed the elbows on and the sealant.

Works great and cheap.

Fleener

[David Rase]

I use a piece of rain gutter placed across the 3 burners on my Camp Chef.  Used to do it across 2 electric stove burners in my wife's kitchen.
David

[Realwarrior]

I use a pvc pipe sealed on one end and screw cap on the other. Works great and cheap. I have one 36" and one 46". You probably only need the longer. I made the shorter one first.

[Scota4570]

I once bent up a 8x8x48" galvanized tank and soldered the end  folds.  It holds about 8-gallons, obviously to big.  I recall using several hotplates to heat it.  And, I used it with Dichophan, which worked fine.  Any idea if galvanized works with real rust blue?  I could make another with galvanized downspout.  I like the idea of soldering the ends.

[45-110]

You indicated your need for a stainless tank. If you do a lot of bluing flimsy gutters and plastic pipes just don't cut it. A square bottom tank on 2-3 burners is a safe choice. The new tank I got came with a drain, and as I said they will make the length you want.

[snapper]

Brownell tanks are or at least were made here in Iowa by one of my clients.   Well built tanks.

Fleener

[Daryl]

Here is Taylor's rust bluing tank.

[Waksupi]

I've steamed several dozen barrels. I use stove pipe, set in a pot of boiling water. Wood square on the top, with wire hooks for hanging barrel and trigger guard. All the other small parts go into the boiling water.
For the best blue quality, I only allow the metal to slightly oxidize before steaming. It usually takes a half dozen cycles to produce an old time Smith and Wesson quality blue.
Just pouring boiling water over the barrel will not do the trick. That will generally gradually turn to a brown. The metal needs to be kept in the live steam for 20 minutes to fully convert the oxidation, and 25 minutes for the boiled parts, as the boiling temperature isn't as hot as the steam.

[Waksupi]

I have tried using a pressure cooker to fill a verticle ABS pipe with steam.  I got to much condensation and it ruined the finish.  Any tips on making that work?  Maybe preheat the barrel?

Use a proper soft buffing wire wheel from Brownell's between each cycle, the finish should even out just fine if done properly. All my barrels come from the steamer looking as you describe, which caused me to panic the first time or two.