Day started bad, then got worse....

[Bigmon]

Just venting, no real problems can't cope with.  Really blessed to be around these days.  But I had all intentions of doing some drilling work on a couple rifle builds today.
First thing drilling pin hole for rr entry pipe.  when using 1/16" bits and pins I have learned to keep but as short as possible and watch out for curly maple sending the bit all over.  So I missed that more than I can live with.
Made a plug and glued it.
Went on to the other rifle drilling a lock bolt.  About half way thru the bolster that bit broke off.  I was using a lot smaller bit for a pilot hole.  I have spent all day and can't get it out, or drill on thru it?
Having a great time!!  LOL

[Stoner creek]

I’ve had that kind of day. I’ve learned to listen to that little voice that says “you anit got it today big boy”. Then I find something else to botch outside of the shop.

[Daryl]

Just picked up a bug-a-salt gun today, 3-5 version. Wonderful stress reliever blasting house flies on the South side of the house on the vinyl
siding in the sunshine.

[45-110]

Are you setting up the drilling in or on a drill press or drilling by hand? Machine tools do have their place, getting a hole to stay on center is a challenge with a hand drill.

[WKevinD]

I have found keeping the bit straight I have success. I don't like trying to balance in a protruding point with a drill press and I cant hold steady enough to prevent a wandering or broken drill bit.
As has been said, some days I'm better off going outside and stacking firewood.
The jig has helped prevent some bad days.
Kevin

[oldtravler61]

  I'm a professional at messing things up.  Oldtravler

[rich pierce]

Is the broken bit stuck in the breechplug bolster or the lock bolster? I’m guessing breechplug bolster. That’s a tough one. I’m guessing that the drill bit is half on, half off the bolster, not through it, and that bent the drill till it broke.

I drill till I touch the bolster then lift the barrel to see what’s going on. Too late for that. One fix is higher tech. Pilot drill from the lock side to try to intersect. When you touch the booster switch to an end mill. If such an end mill exists. Mill through the bolster till you can drive the broken drill bit out.

Other fixes? I doubt you want to risk lifting the barrel muzzle to shear the broken drill bit tip unless it’s 1/16”.

[bluenoser]

I more or less agree with Rich.
An endmill will walk if the setup is not rigid, so I would not go there unless set up on a milling machine or solid drill press setup.  I would also use a carbide endmill.  Fore a less rigid setup, I would follow Rich's advice re drilling from the opposite side, but would use a carbide drill.  A good carbide drill will cut HSS, but it is more likely to back the broken drill out when they make contact.

[Waksupi]

Check local machine shops to see if they have an EDM machine.

https://cmwtech.com/stand-alone-edm-for-broken-tool-and-tap-removal/?msclkid=2c720847b3771c1cb5e46fa86b8a3bcc&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=CMW%20Tech%20-%20Broken%20Tap%20Removal&utm_term=edm%20tool&utm_content=Ad%20group%201

[bluenoser]

I doubt EDM would work when the  broken part is embedded in wood.

[Daniel Coats]

Bigmon can you post a picture please? It would help if we could visualize what's going on.

Somehow You're going to have to take it apart enough to get a hold of what's left of that drill bit.

[Steeltrap]

Went to the range yesterday to sight in my new pistol and rifle. Both 45 cal. Pistol loading and shooting went fine.

Rifle, took two shots using a Minie conical at 50 yards. Group was decent. Then I wanted to just try a PRB with a different lube. Loaded first shot and fired.  Swabbed the bore, loaded the second PRB and discovered I forgot powder. Great. Removed the lock and vent liner in a failed attempt to stuff some 4F under the PRB and at least spit out that PRB. No luck.

Home...took barrel off (hook-breach...no biggie) and tried to get ball puller into ball. No luck. (Further examination later shows I need a better ball puller. The screw on mine get's to fat to quick).

Removed the vent liner. Applied compressed air with no luck. Poured water\dawn mix down barrel and let it sit for a few minutes......no luck with compressed air.

Took my hand drill and very carefully.....for fear of messing up the vent liner threads in barrel....drilled out the center of the PRB. Tried compressed air......no luck.

Then finally tapped in the ball screw and it finally grabbed the PRB.

Upon examination with a bore scope I made a small drill bit dimple opposite the vent liner hole. No big deal as the powder charge "fills" past this anyway......but just a Grrrrrr thing.

Not trying to top your day.....as this didn't. But there are days.............

[Dave B]

I watched Mike Keller help a new builder with the same issue he was able to lign up the oposit side on the drill press and punch out the broken bit. It was 1/16 broken bit. Pretty work for a tough situation. It i volved a clamped stop on the table keeping it square marking the stock for the oposite side . It helps if the stock is sill in the square form

[Bigmon]

Thanks Ya'all for the advice and support. I didn't even look at it Friday.  But it's raining today and the creek is too high to go fishing.  So I am going to take another look at it.
That little bit tip is broken off in the lock bolster.  I have drilled a 1/8" hole down to it for more room.  I had it moving a little but it just would not pick out of there.  So I tried breaking it up with a punch.  I did break it up some but the tip seems to have been driving "peened" into the bottom center of the hole.
I am still trying to save that hole for a lock bolt. Or I may plug it and start over.  That is if I ever get thru it.
I have a few carbide burrs I have worn out on it, but they don't seem to touch it?
I am having a blast.  Oh, I am using a little cheap Craftsman drill press that has always worked pretty well for me on my gun projects.  I can screw it right down on my bench.  I have a much larger drill press but for me, it is difficult to use for these finer jobs.
Thanks again

[Eric Krewson]

I broke a bit off in a steel trigger guard lug deep in the forestock wood. The bad thing was I had put a temporary Phillips screw in to attach the guard in the rear, the screw was under the bow and inaccessible but visible.

I thought I was going to have to live with it, counter boring missed by a mile. Someone here said to buy a 1/16" carbide tipped bit, put it in the hole and run the drill with only the weight of the drill as pressure on the bit. I would have tried anything at this point mainly because a 1760 fowler just doesn't look right with a Phillips head screw in the trigger guard

I bought the drill bit, I think it was $15 and tried what was suggested, nothing happened for the first 15 minutes, then I saw a hint of metal shavings coming out of the hole. About 5 more minutes and POP! The drill bit made it through the broken bit and cut it out of the lug, what a relief!

Of course drilling a new hole more carefully left a hole to be patched and as reminder to pay more attention when drilling steel lugs with a 1/16th bit and don't try to drill through the stock and lug in one pass.



I distroyed the underlug on the trigger guard so I soldered one a new one to put the guard back into place, less the Phillips head screw of course.

[kutter]

Heat the lock plate bolster in the area of the broken bit/hole and anneal the broken bit in that partially drilled hole..
Then try and drill it out again with the broken bit being soft.

Sometimes the broken tip will just spin in the hole and not allow the new drill point to grab, but sometimes it will get enough of a start to cut and pull the broken tip out with it.

Filling the annealed hole with the broken tip still in it with epoxy or even super glue and then drilling thru it sometimes will freeze the tip into place enough for the new drill to cut it w/o it spinning.
Soft solder will also work but you have to first clear the heat temper colors from the annealing from the inside of the hole and broken bit with a touch of weak acid before the soft solder/flux will flow into the hole.

[Steeltrap]

I don't know if you have any small, one-man type of machine shops around you, but you may want to make a call or two and ask if they have a "tap burner".  Tap burners are electrical devices that "burn" "torch" remove the tap or drill hardened material without damager to the surrounding metal.

Just an option to consider.

[WKevinD]

Bigmon, as someone else suggested drill a meeting hole from the other side, using an 1/8" carbide bit when you hit the other bit take a punch and drive the tip out. You should have enough meat left to run a #29 drill then tap it 8-32.
Kevin

[Bigmon]

Friends,
Thanks so much again for all the help.  I got out a new carbide burr and slowly worked it into that 1/8" plus sized hold, and at last got a hole thru the bolster.  AND, I was abble to save the hole enough to use a 10-32 lock bolt.  It is done and threaded and a bolt in place and thru the tang bolster.  Good as I ever did, and ya can't tell at all.  Other than I never used a 10-32 bolt before.  Always use 8-32.
But it is a large lock and it all fits great and looks good.
I just gotta STOP when things arn't going good, and take a break!
Thanks again

[Steeltrap]

Great advice on "stop and take a break".  Glad it worked out very well!

[Bob Roller]

I was once told "Cheer up,things could be worse."I cheered "up" and they got worse .
Bob Roller

[Bigmon]

I guess after all my venting, I am just happy to have a bad day.  Beats no days.  We are all very blessed to be functional enough to be able to converse, or complain, on this sight.
Best to all