Leading in my smooth bore

[varsity07840]

I need some help with what I assume is a leading problem with my 20 ga Kibler. I used over 50 patches, a brass brush and Kroil and still get black patches. I feel what I think is a crud ring about ten inches ahead of the breech. Can this be caused by badly blown patches? My .600 ball/.010 patch loads very loose and really blows up the patches. Again, I assume the black is lead. I’m going to attack it again with chore boy strands on the brush with the rod chucked in a drill.

[Stoner creek]

Try Windex with ammonia.

[rich pierce]

Hard to say but I use a .605 ball with 0.015” patch in my .620 Ed Rayl barrel. I know the math doesn’t add up but it does load. Any loose load fouls badly for me and the patched ball does not clean the fouling from the previous shot. If shooting frequently, at range or woods walk I use a pretty tight very wet patch.

[Hungry Horse]

 That really sounds like a lube problem, rather than a lead problem. Some lubes polymerize with heat, and create a crust in the barrel that is hard to get rid of.

Hungry Horse

[alacran]

Try a Tornado brush.

[varsity07840]

That really sounds like a lube problem, rather than a lead problem. Some lubes polymerize with heat, and create a crust in the barrel that is hard to get rid of.

Hungry Horse

Well, I use mink oil exclusively. I guess my main concern is that it’s not rust, although how that would happen is beyond me. I’ve been shooting MLs for nearly 50 years and never had this problem. I have however, seen leading in BPCRs which is why I thought it was the problem now.

[Rmjchas]

I really like the "Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner" pads.  They can leave light scratches on a high polish, but are great for cleaning a bore.

[Marcruger]

Black could well be graphite.  Mr Flintlock or original Lehigh Valley Lube will remove Graphite.  Give it a try. 

[Hawg]

Leading should come out as flakes on a patch.

[Daryl]

Or steaks of silver, never black.

[varsity07840]

Graphite? Rust? It’s a new barrel-cutting oil residue?

[NDduckhunter]

I think smoothbores tend to be harder to get perfectly clean, I’m not sure why. Maybe it’s a function of the larger bore or more residue from lower pressures or I don’t know what. Shooting shot adds to that of course. I have started using hemp tow and a worm. It seems to speed things up some.

[alacran]

Don't know how you are cleaning, but it takes me half the time to clean a smooth-bore barrel than it does to clean a rifle barrel.

[varsity07840]

Don't know how you are cleaning, but it takes me half the time to clean a smooth-bore barrel than it does to clean a rifle barrel.

That’s usually the same for me until the most recent time.

[Daryl]

I'd guess my smooth bore is a little faster cleaning due to the barrel.key and hooked breech. Yes, the smooth bore does clean with fewer strokes than a rifled barrel.
All my barrels are revoved for cleaning and the breech dunked in a small stainless bucket of water, maybe 1/2 gallon.
Water is sucked in through the vent then blasted back out using a cleaning rod with snug fitting doubled flanellet cloth patch.
1 patch to clean, then remove barrel from the COLD water, the 4 ot 5 patches to dry it, then LIBERALLY spray WD40 into the bore until it runs out the vent ( this carry's ALL moisture remaining around the plug, out the vent) The excess WD40 is then patched out, barrel dipped down with that unfolded patch and replaced on the stock.
On my flinter rifles, all have pins and same deal for cleaning.
1 patch to clean, 4 to 5 for drying & oiling. It is dry enough here that no other rust prevention is needed.

[varsity07840]

I'd guess my smooth bore is a little faster cleaning due to the barrel.key and hooked breech. Yes, the smooth bore does clean with fewer strokes than a rifled barrel.
All my barrels are revoved for cleaning and the breech dunked in a small stainless bucket of water, maybe 1/2 gallon.
Water is sucked in through the vent then blasted back out using a cleaning rod with snug fitting doubled flanellet cloth patch.
1 patch to clean, then remove barrel from the COLD water, the 4 ot 5 patches to dry it, then LIBERALLY spray WD40 into the bore until it runs out the vent ( this carry's ALL moisture remaining around the plug, out the vent) The excess WD40 is then patched out, barrel dipped down with that unfolded patch and replaced on the stock.
On my flinter rifles, all have pins and same deal for cleaning.
1 patch to clean, 4 to 5 for drying & oiling. It is dry enough here that no other rust prevention is needed.

. 

What would be your guess as to what is causing the black patches after so many wipes?

[Daryl]

Oxidation of the steel.  Set aside outside overnight, are they red the next day?
The only other explanation would be graphite. What make of power were you using?
Definitely not lead. Lead comes out silver in colour.
I would, if I were you, use a tighter patch .010 to .012 patch materials aren't thick enough.
You need a patch that not only maintains it's integrity (prevents cutting or burning) but also
carries enough lube to wet the fouling so the next shot can be easily loaded, which in turn wets
the fouling so the next shot can be easily loaded.
In a .620" bore, I would be using a 10 ounce denim patch with a .595" to .600" ball.

[varsity07840]

Oxidation of the steel.  Set aside outside overnight, are they red the next day?
The only other explanation would be graphite. What make of power were you using?
Definitely not lead. Lead comes out silver in colour.
I would, if I were you, use a tighter patch .010 to .012 patch materials aren't thick enough.
You need a patch that not only maintains it's integrity (prevents cutting or burning) but also
carries enough lube to wet the fouling so the next shot can be easily loaded, which in turn wets
the fouling so the next shot can be easily loaded.
In a .620" bore, I would be using a 10 ounce denim patch with a .595" to .600" ball.

I’m using 60 gr of 3F Swiss. Any suggestions on getting rid of the black?

Thanks!