Kibler locks, how much work do they need ?

[mikeyr]

  I am finally finishing my Kibler woodsrunner finally after many years of it sitting.   When I disassembled the lock, there were some screws that were quite loose which I thought was odd but I was going to finish it and didn't think noting of it at the time.    Now that I have browned it and like it, I am trying to put it together and having issues.  If I tighten up the sear screw, everything locks up, the cock and the sear.  I can force the cock to move and it created quite a bur.  The sear locks up because the rear of it, rubs on the plate.    I really don't want to send it back to Kibler, for one, I purchased this kit many years ago so I doubt they would help me and also because I have finished it already and would prefer to not finish another one if it would even fit in the stock as well.

I can start filing and making things work but I am also thinking of putting shim material under the bridal to add more room under it.  However the sear screw will still tighten up things too much I think.  So another thought would be making shims to fit the outer diameter of the sear screw so it can't be driven that far (that may be the best solution, but really finicking and difficult work for me to do accurately)

I should mention I had no issues with my Southern kit lock, it works fine and has always been fine.   

[EC121]

It looks like some of the holes aren't threaded very well.  No wonder the screws are loose.

[Jdw276]

Send it back.......no idea how this could have happened.....

[mikeyr]

I already finished it and also I purchased the kit many years ago so I don’t think they would help me.   On further poking around I think maybe some loctite on the sear screw so it does not tighten everything too much

[rich pierce]

Contacting Kiblers is your best move.

[Angus]

Whoa Nelly!!!! There is no place on a muzzleloader that should, could or would need loctite.

[elk killer]

i bet Jim would very well help

[Steeltrap]

Agree. I'd contact Jim. I'm sure he will be more than willing to fix it.

[mikeyr]

Well, I agree with the poster that said there should be no Loctite on a flintlock.  I can’t seem to get it to assemble without locking up. And as I said when I disassembled it several screws were quite loose. Still poking around and I guess I will try and contact Kibler’s but that hasn’t been easy in the past, it’s a game of Voicemail tag.

[mikeyr]

So the shoulder on the sear screw is 0.03 off. I don’t know how to create a washer that thin and small but I think that’s all I have to do. going to try to make one and also I will try the voicemail tag with Kibler as well.

[Jim Kibler]

It looks to me that the only problem is the threads on the sear screw are too long.  This can be finicky.  Regardless it’s disappointing to see.  Bree will contact you if you would like so we can fix it for you. 

If you would like, there is an easy fix.  Decrease the sear screw head thickness by removing material from the underside  of the screw head.  To do this, chuck the screw in a drill and using a file with a safe edge spin the screw and hold the file against this face.  Cut a bit and try it.  Repeat if necessary.

[Jim Kibler]

To answer your question, they generally need zero work.

[wolf]

i am on my 24th Kibler, they are as good as any lock. very unusual that you are having trouble. i did have one that the threads wasn't cut all the way for the cock screw and it wouldn't clamp tight enough to lock the flint. i just ran a bottom tap in and fixed it. try what Jim suggested first,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

[mikeyr]

It looks to me that the only problem is the threads on the sear screw are too long.  This can be finicky.  Regardless it’s disappointing to see.  Bree will contact you if you would like so we can fix it for you. 

If you would like, there is an easy fix.  Decrease the sear screw head thickness by removing material from the underside  of the screw head.  To do this, chuck the screw in a drill and using a file with a safe edge spin the screw and hold the file against this face.  Cut a bit and try it.  Repeat if necessary.

Duh I feel stupid.  I was looking at all sorts of solutions and yours Jim is the best and also the easiest.  I can chuck it into the lathe and shave the head, why the heck didn’t I think of it that way ?  I will try that first and then call Bree if I can’t make it work.  thank you

[CooleyS]

Don’t ever feel stupid for asking a question. Part of the purpose of ALR is to provide a place where folks can go to ask and help get answers or ideas on how to solve issues that come up.
I’ve never known Kibler Longrifles not to stand behind their products. Great business, great people and the best customer service.
-Steve

[Bob Roller]

This is a VERY rare occurence with the Kibler locks.Jim took one apart for me at a show and the sear has a precise bushing for the screw to go thru .This is an addition to the quality of the lock that I wouldn't have thought of in a hundred years.
Bob Roller

[Bill in Md]

Good service is paramount as sometimes things aren't perfect. Looks like you have a supplier willing to stand behind their products.

[duca]

Once again, Jim comes through! Thanks to the Kibler‘s. We’re getting a quality product that they stand behind. Please let us know how your solution works with this screw.

[smallpatch]

I’ve used at least a dozen of Jim’s locks, and have NEVER had to modify any.
Love them.

[Dphariss]

To answer your question, they generally need zero work.

I agree having done 3 Colonials and 2 SMR. And I am pretty finicky. If I had a problem I would go to Jim first not post it here. I have ordered an extra part once, a trigger bar to make into a SS trigger and the lady on the phone was going to send it free if there was a problem.

[bama]

I have used several of Jim’s locks and all have been very well done. With the volume that Jim is producing his quality is very high. I have never had one that looked even close to being out of square on the sear screw. You should have called Jim to start with. Every time I called they have been very helpful. Sometimes you have to leave a message but I have always been called back in a reasonable amount of time.

One of the best ways to tell the quality of a lock right out of the box is to do a trigger pull weight test. I have tested Jim’s locks right out of the box and they have all tested around 3 lbs on the average. There are very few locks being produced today that will match that.

Anyone that produces something can have a bad piece occasionally and it gets through quality control, it happens. Jim has never to my knowledge not made it right. Good folks to work with and the best products on the market today. Jim’s quality has made all producers step up their game, and that’s a good thing, for us.

[mikeyr]

Well it’s done and assembled. 2 more coats of oil on the stock and put it all together. 

Thank you Jim for suggesting the right way to fix it.  I chucked it up in my toy lathe that I make very small parts with and since I could not get a cutter in there, I used my cut off tool to shave off .04 on the head and voilà perfect.  Yes I maybe could’ve sent it back, but it was already finished and I didn’t wanna go through that again, I had the tools and Jim told me how.

[Jim Kibler]

Nice work.  Thanks for fixing my screw-up.  If you have any other issues, let me know.

Jim