Glue flint to leather?

[badwolf]

Anyone try this? What type of glue, epoxy?

[Pukka Bundook]

Nope.
never felt need B-W.

[Darkhorse]

I have done it once. It seemed to work pretty good. A little easier maybe to change flints. I might do another just in case I need to change one in the field.
I don't remember what kind of glue I used as it was a number of years ago.

[DanL]

As @Darkhorse, while preparing for an outing, I have glued leather to flint as a quick replacement in the field. It is handy and helps with fumble fingers while swapping flints in the field. 

I used 'period correct' "super" glue and it works nicely.

[Hungry Horse]

I notch the back side of the leather, and the flint as well. This keeps the flint in place. I saw this method in a museum somewhere and tried it, and it worked just fine.

Hungry Horse

[PIKELAKE]

I glue leather to my flints; it makes it easier to change them on wood walks. I use the first glue I grab; usually Tight Bond. A little dab will do ya.  JZ

[recurve]

try this
https://www.3riversarchery.com/adhesive-backed-leather-bow-grip-material.html

I have never glued leather to a flint , just try different thicknesses old leather gloves and wallets.....

[Bill in Md]

try thin sheet lead.....works nice

[smylee grouch]

Glue the flints. You shouldn't need a pocket full just one or two for the hunt or trail walk. I think there are more than one lock makers that discourage using lead to hold the flints.   

[Leatherbark]

For what it is worth I remember reading some famous and well-known lock manufacturer will void the warranty if you use lead to clamp the flint in the jaws of his locks.  I use glue on a few just for a quick change.  Any old contact cement works okay.

Bob 

[Bill in Md]

For what it is worth I remember reading some famous and well-known lock manufacturer will void the warranty if you use lead to clamp the flint in the jaws of his locks.  I use glue on a few just for a quick change.  Any old contact cement works okay.

Bob

Releasing the hammer against the frizzen face without a flint in the jaws voids the warranty also. I have done that to.... .....I do understand the reasoning wrt the added weight but the key is paper thin. Medical sheet lead will allow this. I still use leather mostly as I am lazy and it is easier to install in a pinch. Lead gives nice sparking though and holds better......With that said, every lock I have ever used produces ample sparks for quick ignition......Touch hole location is the key to good ignition, provided there is an actual flint in the jaw.......

[Scota4570]

I'd be more inclined to use rosin.  You can get it in a solvent for electronic soldering.

IF the flint and leather is departing the lock I'd put teeth in the jaws to hold the leather.  I put them in all my locks and never have issues throwing flints.  It also helps to use a thicker softer leather vs thin hard leather.

[brokenhand]

I recently changed my usual piece of leather to hold my flint for a thicker piece. Closer to belt type thickness. I noticed that it stayed tight in the jaws for a lot longer time, and seemed to work better for me.

[Birddog6]

I carried some flints with leather glued to them in my possibles for years & never used them. When I
hunt I put a new flint in, no way I will wear it out as I get 40-100 shots from a good flint in a good lock.
I may knap it a couple times but I use it til it is dead.  However, I did lose a flint one time.  Got to the knoll I wanted to hunt from, looked at the rifle lock & flint was gone. But I always have 2-3 flints & 2-3 leathers in a pouch in possibles. I use old shoes & boot leather to make mine. Kinda picky on the thickness too.