Unknown Rifle, or part of one

[far55]

I recently started some repairs to this gun and was wondering if anyone recognized any features from the buttstock ? Everything  forward of the lock, including the modern barrel has already been replaced rather crudely and I thought it would be a good practice restoration candidate, at least as a wall hanger. I think the patchbox and toe plate may be products of the Tryon Company of Philadelphia if not the remaining butt section. The patchbox release is activated by pushing in the narrow section of the toe plate. The one distinctive feature that may help identify it is the small  raised rib paralell to the bottom edge of the cheekpiece. Anything jump out to anyone ? Thanks for any help, Roland

[far55]

I hoped with 152 veiws, someone might have an opinion. The raised rib below the cheekpiece seemed like it might be a telling feature. I dont remember seeing this before, but I am certainly a novice at collecting and building. I enjoy researching the history on the guns I own and have looked through all the books that I have without anything jumping out at me besides the Tryon connection.  Just bumping this back to the top for another try, Thanks, Roland

[rich pierce]

I thought about replying but felt I wasn’t convinced of the thoughts I had. It looks like a Philadelphia-made gun we call a trade gun but that just means manufactured in this case, to me. 1840-1860?

[Buck]

Roland,

It's a late rifle. The builder made an attempt to replicate something from the Philadelphia area. The "Pineapple" finial is the giveaway, understand that the engraving is not that of a master. You mention Tryon, it could very well be an attempt to copy a Tryon. That's the best I can do for you, good luck.

Buck 

[far55]

Thanks guys. I appreciate your thoughts on this gun. I am enjoying getting it into a reasonable wall hanger, mostly using the tips and guidence I have gained on this site. The top edge of the forestock that was replaced had a 1/8" - 3/16" flat along the barrel and the ramrod channel is very deep which hides a lot of the ramrod. I have thinned the upper edge to about 1/16" and will reduce the ramrod channel to about 1/3 or half the ramrod. I have already repaired missing wood around the lock and fitted a similar size old lock that I had on hand. I will post my results if it does not turn out too horrible. Thanks again, Roland

[whetrock]

Thanks for showing it to use, Roland. It's an interesting piece.
You mentioned that the wood forward of the lock had all been replaced. How was it attached and glued in? What sort of joint? Was there any effort to hide the joint?

[far55]

Here is a couple of pictures of the splice.  The bottom does'nt look too horrible, but the wood added to the sideplate lock panel isnt a match at all. The bottom 6-8 " of the ramrod hole is poured full of epoxy and at this point I dont think I will try to remove it. The ramrod channel was higher on one side than the othe and the taper down to the nose area was never finished. I think I will add a nosecap. The spring that pops the patchbox open is missing. I will add more photos as I make that repair. Roland

[bluenoser]

Others with more experience might have a better suggestion, but you could remove about 1/16" from the surface of the side panel, glue on a 1/16" piece of matching wood and then blend the shaping around the edges.  I am just finishing restoration of a very abused mid 19th century fowling piece that had been broken through through the panels - along with other wood loss.  An early repair included an almost panel sized piece of brass inlet and screwed into the panel.  Removed the brass, flattened the area and glued on a patch.  A little shading along the edges hides the splice.

[far55]

Thanks for your reply, Blue. I have done the same on another badly abused lock panel that had an oversized lock installed. It may still happen yet withthis stock.  Roland