Lock lubing?

[Jakob]

Since I'm on a streak of dumb questions at the moment, I thought I would continue:
How do you lube the internals of a flintlock? Just regular gun oil? What about shooting in the winter? I generally wimp out and don't shoot/hunt below -10C/14F.

[bluenoser]

No such thing as a dumb question, but not asking questions can be dumb.

I just use 10W or 20W non detergent oil all year long.  I apply a drop to each wear point and dab off any excess.  Don't want excess oil soaking into the wood.  If I disassemble a lock, I generally apply a thin film of Lubriplate (white lithium grease) on reassembly to those areas that are not easily accessible when assembled.  It's a personal choice and others might think a thin film of oil would be better.

[JPK]

I use a dab of  Mobile 1 grease on high friction surfaces and LPS Brake Free on everything else. LPS Brake Free has been tested  to have a very low co- efficient of friction.

[Darkhorse]

I  lube my reels with fishing reel oil. I use Lew's speed lube because it comes with a long steel needle that allows me to put a drop exactly where I want it.
I use reel grease on the few contact areas that requires it.

[Fyrstyk]

In the warmer months I use Barricade, in the colder months, and especially with my hunting rifles, I use powdered graphite.  It doesn't freeze or slow the lock down.

[MuskratMike]

RIG grease on the bearing surfaces and a light spray of Original WD-40 over the rest

[HSmithTX]

Grease,  Brian Enos Slide Glide Light to be specific.  It is a very high tack grease so it stays where you put it and will run fine down well below freezing in very close tolerance moving parts.  I use an acid brush and paint it on all surfaces inside the lock (my lock mortise wood is sealed so the grease doesn't get into the wood),  no corrosion and it catches all the fouling.  By catching all the fouling it prevents corrosion on any internal lock parts. 

[Woodpecker]

Mineral oil on the metal and grease on the bearing surfaces. I put a dab in a cap tin 20 years ago and never ran out.

[Waksupi]

If it slides on other metal, grease it, if it rotates, oil it.

[bluenoser]

I have read and heard that many times over the years, but just can't quite see the logic.
If something is rotating and bearings are not involved - think tumbler spindles in plate and bridle - are not the surfaces sliding against each other?  So what makes one different than the other??  There is, of course, the ability to add a drop of oil when disassembly would be required to add grease.
Just having a bit of fun with this, so please don't take offence

[WadePatton]

Bear grease.

[Waksupi]

I have read and heard that many times over the years, but just can't quite see the logic.
If something is rotating and bearings are not involved - think tumbler spindles in plate and bridle - are not the surfaces sliding against each other?  So what makes one different than the other??  There is, of course, the ability to add a drop of oil when disassembly would be required to add grease.
Just having a bit of fun with this, so please don't take offence

I think it may have to do with clearances. In cold weather grease on a rotating part could render things inoperable. When I would hunt at minus 20 or so, I would remove all grease and oil from a firearm to keep them reliable for that short period. I do know my 1911 runs slicker with grease on the rails.

[Daryl]

I use a thin smear of moly grease. Works at any temp and doesn't "wash out" when cleaning/brushing with a tooth brush in water.
I would assume a petroleum grease might turn solid.
Synthetics do not, nor does the moly I use. The "rest" of the moving parts are lubed with the WD40 after drying.
This "dry lube" seems to work just fine.

[Birddog6]

I use a light gun oil on the internals & white lithium grease of the shoe of the tumbler
the main spring slides on. That is how they came from Chambers & it has worked well
for me.  If Jim don't know how to lube one, I don't know who would.

[whetrock]

On the topic of lubes, oil, etc., whatever you choose, it's worth noting is that some of the newer locks have a tighter tolerance in the little mortise for the fly than did some older models. So if any gunk builds up in there, or if there is any dry grease in there, the fly might not be able to make it's full swing, and that can present problems for the sear.  So when you are cleaning, be sure to clean that area well. I've had that problem even with a small Siler than I hadn't used in a while, but a shot of WD-40 and a few cycles of the lock was enough to solve the problem, even without disassembling the lock.

[Prairie dog shooter]

Bear oil on rotating parts and grease on the sliding parts.

[Scota4570]

After cleaning the lock I spray it down with a light oil, often silicone spray.  I then blow it off with compressed air.  Any non vegetable oil is fine.  Just do not make it so juicy as to get in the stock.