Author Topic: Scrimshaw color.  (Read 1987 times)

Online Frozen Run

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Scrimshaw color.
« on: July 13, 2025, 08:07:14 PM »
The who, the what, the where, and the why of color on recreating period scrimshaw work. What are you trying to replicate and what do you use to achieve that?

There are a lot of broad, sweeping claims and suppositions along with truths, half truths, and likely outright fallacies in the following wall of text. I am not an expert on the subject, these are things I've read or heard from people who I don't want to misquote so I won't mention them. So I am not in a position to debate any of this. Please correct me where I am wrong and add to the topic. Thank you.

Firstly, I believe this is an all of the above situation, they used whatever was available or what they preferred and the end result reflects a myriad of colors mainly on the black and brown scales? But, that is a big picture generalization. So if what they had access to changed whether they were on a naval or merchant vessel, or if they lived in the 17th, 18th, 19th centuries, in a bustling city of a million people or out in the hills somewhere, a trained scrimshaw artist/hornsmith or someone scratching away under a tree, would different colors be more prevalent in those individual instances?

The monkey wrench that you need to throw into any part in this thread is the argument (fact? I don't what to call it) many have that most if not all antique horns have been cleaned and re inked at least once. So how many people that try to recreate 18th century work are unbeknownst to them coloring their scrimshaw based on an addition from the 19th or early 20th century?

1. Pencil lead. Starting off with the easiest one to justify. It has been mentioned by some experts on the subject that pencil lead is often found in original scrimshaw. Historically widely available, easy to work with, and will color scrimshaw work. I think it's safe to say that lead is without question period correct based on the above, but how common was it? 

Black vs Brown? This is the part that bugs me because I can't seem to get any sort of closure on the topic. I've seen work by and talked to some of the best scrimshaw artists and hornsmiths in the world. Some of them are adamant about brown scrimshaw and others black scrimshaw.

2. Black. Contemporary application is pretty simple. India ink, or black Sharpie, or magic marker, or a black dye bath. When you scrimshaw, you are cutting or scribing porous marks into an otherwise smooth surface, when you dunk it in the dye bath the color really absorbs into the scrimshaw marks and largely wipes off the smooth upper surface. Steel wool off the high spots. Most commercial steel wools have oil in them to prevent the wool from rusting on the shelves and it also makes it nicer to work with for most general garage type projects. For horn and gun work I use oil free steel wool, I
It's made by briwax. I don't want oil prohibiting a rusting process or interfering with a dye or stain.

Black scrimshaw? How period correct is it and for what period? I tend to see it a lot on naval work. I suspect it's because the medium is commonly ivory or bone and it's the best contrast to the bright white background? I think I see it a lot on high end period horns but almost exclusively through pictures and it's hard to tell sometimes and is that a later re ink?

3. Brown. I haven't experimented with brown scrimshaw yet so if anyone could fill in the details here it would be much appreciated. I suspect it's the same as black with the exception of using brown inks, markers, dyes? Something fun you can buy on Amazon is a set of 30 different colored sharpy markers that range from light tan to dark brown. Like 30 different shades of brown. So primitive and folksy horns are almost exclusively what I've handled as far as originals go and they have almost all had brown scrimshaw. I am hard pressed to think of anything that had black scrimshaw and the ones that have I feel like it just appeared black as it was on a darker part of the horn? I have heard things like it's the iron that oxidized in the ink giving it the brown color, that it was originally black? Is that true that something in the original ink oxidized or some other element broke down to create a black to brown color shift in the ink and over how long would this take to happen?

So not all powder horns were bought to be used, some of them were art pieces to display on a shelf. Honest hard use horns were commonly dyed, to what extent I couldn't say. It makes you not stand out in the woods and I imagine soom people just liked the way a dyed horn looked? They may have seen an in the white horn as incomplete like an undyed shirt? So it was common for horns to be walnut dyed.

I suspect that a significant portion of common scrimshaw work was colored as the result of a walnut dye bath people used to finish the horn and/or they carved something neat in the horn and crud would build up in the marks. Both of these things people try to replicate today using brown inks and dyes?

4. Polychrome. That's just a fancy way of saying many different colors. I know of people using fancy Windsor Newton dyes and magic markers. I think other people have used paints to achieve it but I don't know what kind? How common was polychrome? There was a big fraktur pennsylvania dutch style that was hugely popular so you should see polychrome originals all over the place, but I can't recall seeing one original anywhere?


« Last Edit: July 13, 2025, 08:15:23 PM by Frozen Run »

Online rich pierce

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Re: Scrimshaw color.
« Reply #1 on: July 13, 2025, 08:29:22 PM »
Great questions. I’ve seen many scrimmed original horns of low value because they are small, or damaged, or later, that show almost no ink. The scrim is hard to see. It may be that these “non-professional” horns had the designs colored with charcoal or ground gunpowder paste or something less “permanent” than India ink, which itself is water soluble. I marvel at the dark inking seen on famous horns. If the dark inking that remains is original, that would seem to require a water- insoluble coloring agent. No idea if that was possible or practiced.
Andover, Vermont

Online Frozen Run

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Re: Scrimshaw color.
« Reply #2 on: July 13, 2025, 09:23:17 PM »
I think the temptation when recreating period work by novices such as myself is to play it safe and go too primitive with whatever you're doing so as to not be called out for being not HC. When in reality, the technologies and resources they had access to can become mind bending when you try to figure out how they did it.

I don't understand how to make a barrel, but I can wrap my mind around how a cooper does it. When you start looking at fancy 18th century textile patterns, for example, I can't wrap my mind around how a machine would do it today. First the patterns are dizzying, and second, why doesn't it all just fall apart into a pile of loose threads when it gets spit out at the other end? The amount of intricacies in the machine work in the 18th century textile industry must have been breath taking. I imagine it's the same thing for ink manufacture?

The other thing I was thinking about is crud is basically your body oil plus dirt. Different places have different soil so the crud color would have to be different in PA vs the Carolinas for example? So that may create a regional difference in simple scrimshaw color?

I was reminded of talk radio a while ago where they would interview odd people. There was this one famous guy who wanted to find out where belly button lint came from so he started collecting it in a jar. This was before the internet was so widely available keep in mind. Well he noticed over the course of a couple years or so that his belly button lint changed color and that that color corolated with the color of his shower towels. I bring this up because there are often factors people do not take into consideration for why a certain thing is the way it is.

Offline Habu

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Re: Scrimshaw color.
« Reply #3 on: July 13, 2025, 11:53:26 PM »
I've been using iron gall ink (instead of India ink) to color scrimshaw for years. The color ranges from brown to black; I'm not sure how much of this is due to different batches of ink and how much is due to the way the ink reacts with the horn.  Properly made, the dried ink is not water-soluable. 

Iron gall ink is fairly simple to manufacture*.  The basic recipe has been around since Roman times.  Oak galls can be found in most areas.  Ferrous sulphate--"copperas" or "green vitriol"--was available in stores.  The addition of gum arabic is not absolutely necessary but it does result in a glossier ink, and gives a little more "body" to the ink when you write with it. 

I've experimented with mineral pigments for polychrome.  The pigment particles won't adhere without the addition of a carrier (eg linseed oil) or binder (glue).  The addition of linseed oil results in a paint.  The glues of the day were water-soluable, so the ink wasn't what we'd think of as permanent.  Workmen of the day would have been aware of the advantages/disadvantages of both approaches.  I think they selected which best met their needs, or selected the color they wanted and lived with the consequences, or just used what was available.

*Grind up oak galls (pound with a hammer to reduce to chunks, then grind in a mortar and pestle).  Soak 2 ounce of powdered galls in a pint of water for a day or two.  Filter through several layers of muslin.  Add 1 ounce of ferrous sulphate, stir til dissolved.  Filter through a coffee filter.  Add 1/2 ounce gum arabic (or maybe a bit more), stir til dissolved.  It works best if you let it age for a couple days. 

Offline Bob Gerard

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Re: Scrimshaw color.
« Reply #4 on: July 15, 2025, 02:56:21 AM »
Most old scrimshaw horns I have seen are almost void of engraved decoration. Probably due to to their being so lightly scratched from the start that their frequent handling has worn them down and wiped away much of the surface and the light engraving.

Offline pulaski

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Re: Scrimshaw color.
« Reply #5 on: July 21, 2025, 12:56:09 AM »
For me , i use burnt black powder off a piece of steel for my "ink"
Works well
YMMV
Steve