Building my Kibler Woodsrunner 54cal Fancy Maple with CNC and Engraving

[BaldEagleFL]

Black Powder!
Finally getting to my build.
Aged the barrel but it came out not shiny and not very gray.
Almost looks blued.
I drawfiled (Thanks to Don Richards) the barrel for all the flats I needed that were exposed.
I sanded with 320 sand paper a little.
I used brass aging 3x.
Each time I allowed it to turn to a rusty looking barrel after 30 min.
Steel wool with oil and it looked like it was a blued barrel of some years.
Seems I will leave it unless I decide I don’t like it.
I aged the brass and polished.
(I figured out quickly that’s how you get aged brass with black in the grooves and deep places)
It looks pretty good to me but I believe a little more shiny will do the trick.
Bought the regular and English lock vise.
Going to polish the lock and perhaps age it a little.
I have to watch some videos to keep going.
Is there an engraver on the space coast of FL anyone know of?`

[BaldEagleFL]

I think I am going to disassemble the Kibler lock, smooth it, polish it, then leave it in the raw.
I will watch Jim Kibler video again first.
I got an English and regular vice for it in the event I needed a second one for the frizzen sprint.
Super excited.
Here is the pic of the barrel after I finished it.
This finish was very easy to do and completed in a just a few hours with on/off work.

[BaldEagleFL]

The Stock is a woodsrunner fancy maple, CNC, and engraving.
Finish plan is as follows.
1. Whisker 2-3 times
2. Iron Nitrate
3.Heat
4. Danglers Reddish Brown
5.Rottenstone if too shiny
6. 3 coats of Becks Flintlocks 18th Century Finishing Oil
7. 3 coats of Becks Flintlocks 18th Century Finishing Wax.

It’s my first time so please provide your 2 cents on any and all steps.
It’s appreciated.


I bought everything I needed to finish my rifle 3 different ways in the event I don’t like something.  If I don’t like the lock, I may have it cerakoted titanium.  Since it is my first time, I may start over a few times if I don’t like the results so do understand I am open to suggestions.
I have decided not to inlay anything in the stock since it’s fancy maple with engraving.

[whetrock]

BaldEageFL,
Welcome to the forum. It's good to see your enthusiasm! Post more photos of your progress as you have time.
Whetrock

[BaldEagleFL]

BaldEageFL,
Welcome to the forum. It's good to see your enthusiasm! Post more photos of your progress as you have time.
Whetrock

You bet my friend.   
I am waiting on my Kibler order for Iron nitrate and few other things.
I plan to start the stock this week.
My wife brought me a Dremel tool she bought a few months ago and it had the extra attachable hand held unit with it.  I might smooth and polish the lock with it.  Try is more like it.

[whetrock]

Regarding the finish on the lock, I'd suggest you will probably like the final results best if you stick with a traditional finish. Browned, blued, or left in the white are all traditional. Cerakoted titanium might be out of place (a bit like "lipstick on a pig", as the expression goes).

Be really careful with the Dremel. You can use it on tight spots, but I'd avoid using it on any flat spots. Best to use a piece of hardwood wrapped in emery paper. (I use wet-dry sandpaper, such as is used in auto body repair. I buy it at the auto parts store.) Much more controllable. Dremel can get out of control very quickly and make divots.
320 and 400 grit if you plan to brown or blue it. Go to 600 if you plan to leave it in the white.

With the sandpaper, I lubricate it with mineral oil. I just use Norton's oil sold for use when sharpening knives. It catches the slurry quite well--better than water, in my opinion.  I do not do it dry. Wet-dry paper is designed to build up a slurry. Also, if you can smell the metal dust, you are breathing metal dust. Using the oil helps keep the dust under control.  (I wear a dust mask when polishing, as well.)

[BaldEagleFL]

Thank you Whetrock for your advice.
I really appreciate it.
I need to hear these things so I process them when I am planning.
Leaving the lock in the white is the plan at this time after a polish.

[whetrock]

I'm glad it's helpful.
Let me also mention that you want to avoid using power buffing equipment for polishing a lock. I'm talking about buffing wheels and that sort of thing. They round off the corners. You want the corners to be defined.

About the only time a buffing wheel is an effective tool on a longrifle is if you are trying to create the appearance of high wear and thus "age", as you might if doing restoration work or creating faux age as an artistic detail. For example, you might want to intentionally wear down the edges and rings of ramrod pipes, to give them the appearance of many years of wear. (John Bivens mentioned this specific use of buffing wheels in an article he wrote on restoration, in a book titled "Gunsmithing Tips and Projects".)

You can soften the edges of metal parts that need softening, but if you will just use fine sandpaper or a very fine needle file you will be able to control where and how much to take off much better than if you do it with a buffing wheel. For example, you might want to soften the edges and corners of a rear sight, or the edges on the bow and spur of a trigger guard, so that they don't feel sharp and don't scratch you. You don't need to round them over or remove facets. Just dull sharp edges. This can make the piece more comfortable to use. (You don't want to be cut by the rear sight every time you try to use the rifle.)

Cover nearby areas with tape so as to avoid scratching them with the sandpaper or needle file.