Not sure if this goes here? Shooting a back action. 1870's gun

[Greywuuf]

I just purchased a rough 1870 marked G Morgan back action 40 caliber. Looks like a plains gun but is obviously a light caliber. I am wondering if it is considered a sacrilege to repair and shoot the poor old girl. Maybe up to boring and re rifl8ng ( bore scope is like taking a ride in a sewer pipe) anyway I love the look and kinda want to make a woods walking gun for my remote property adventures here in Alaska, but if it is better to leave the cracks and poor wood and bore alone I guess I can hang it on the wall in the cabin.

[rich pierce]

Some advocate that anything old, regardless of value or rarity or historical significance, should be preserved as-is to show its history. Taken to extreme, (joking here) a person couldn’t take an old horseshoe and forge something new from it without raising some eyebrows.

My view is that antique items which were common and are therefore of very modest value - whether a dresser or an antique rifle - are fair game for restoration or whatever. I’ve restored an old nondescript, unsigned, back action rifle to shooting condition. It was a fun project. I’d just warn that often old wood which is cracked is going to fail with use eventually.

If an antique gun was worth $2000 I’d certainly not be risking that value. $400 - yes.

Freshing a barrel can be a 5 hour or a 20 hour job, but it’s satisfying when they shoot well.

[smylee grouch]

Got one. A 38 that Jim Goodies freshed  out to 45 for me. Great shooter  and I've taken 3 deer with it . Inch and three sixteenths across the flats and 13 pounds. It had a "Remington " barrel.

[Daryl]

If the breech area and enough weight in the barrel, why not? I would.
Check very carefully, the drum threads. I would consider using 2F only due to the lower pressure
generated at ANY velocity. A .45 would be a good choice, with 48" twist.

[Greywuuf]

If i were honest with myself I would mildly Bubba this one and replace the pin with a wedge, glue the cracks  and build up the stock under the drum to support it. I realy want a plains rifle. Also I would replace the post original build sights. Just not sure i can stomach being "that guy" they modifies history .

[yellowhousejake]

I have repaired, saved, many old guns (unmentionables) and I view it differently than many.

It is considered an act of love to take a rusty incomplete antique car and bring it back to show room condition. Often so it can provide a glimpse into the past for future generations. Would I lead fill the bullet holes on B&C's Ford V8 and paint it a different color to drive it? No. Would I repaint my great grampa's old truck and rebuild the motor to drive in my town's founders parade? Yes.

You have to weigh the history you are removing against the history you are preserving.

I would get it shooting again.

DAve

[Mule Brain]

I am all for keeping originality, whilst putting a rifle like this back in service. I would do my best to derust the bore and see what ya got. Then if need be, punch it!   

[taterbug]

have you checked the twist rate in the barrel?  It may have been built as a 'target' gun with a faster twist rate to use a longer style bullet.  Thay may affect your decision, or it may not.  Up to you.

Target shooting, impromptu or organized, was one of the most popular sports in the US before the 'advent' of roundball games.  This gun looks much like it was built for that purpose. 

[Greywuuf]

Near as I can tell I have a .38 cal barrel about 31" long and with a marked rod and tight patch i get about a half turn .... so about 1:60 twist.   To my mind that makes it a round ball gun. 

[Hungry Horse]

 Your gun seems to have a muzzle that has been turned round for a bullet starter. This would indicate to me the gun was designed to shoot bullets not balls. Often these guns made during the late muzzleloading period were gain twist rifling which is hard to judge with just a patch and a rod. The area you are located in  would also make me lean towards the gun being a bullet gun, just because a small caliber bullet has more stopping power than a round ball.

Hungry Horse

[Greywuuf]

Would these guns typically shoot bare bullets prefit to the rifling with the starter or would they be patched ? Possibly paper patched?    There are no pin holes on the muzzle for a rifling matched starter so it would have been just a bullet block type if it ever existed.    I may dig around in my molds and see what I have in a heavy .38 ... several members on the casting forum have reported good luck with using paper patched bullets to over come a badly pitted and abused bore.    Also my tang is drilled as if it has sight at one time. 

[Mule Brain]

PRB

Patched round ball should be the ticket

[Hungry Horse]

 The guns I’ve seen with a relief on the end of the barrel were all designed to use a socket type bullet starter that specifically were used to start a sugar loaf style bullet of nearly bore diameter. If your gun is .38 cal a 36 caliber bullet mold for a cap and ball revolver might be pretty close. I think although the bullet is called a .36 cal, it actually is closer to .38.

Hungry Horse

[Hungry Horse]

 Some shoot bare short bullets (not mini balls) usually they were very close to bore size, or even tiny bit larger. Pistol bullets are relieved at the base so they can be fitted onto a paper cartridge, this works out well for getting them started even if they are bore size or a little larger since you don’t use a paper cartridge unless you have the extra space.
 One other thing is that most of these guns I have seen have no crown at the muzzle and when they do it usually because somebody that didn’t have the original bullet mold crown the barrel so they could shoot round balls.

Hungry Horse

[Greywuuf]

Thanks guys, correct there is no crown and I don't have a couple cap and ball molds that i think will be pretty close. Still scrubbing on the breech end of the bore and have to glue up some stock cracks l.... and possibly tighten up the tumbler and hammer fit.    My eyes are getting pretty old... I may make up a base that fits the drilled and tapped holes on the tang and try to fit an aperture sight and see if this thing actually shoots.

[Hungry Horse]

 It’s highly likely that the gun has gain twist rifling. This makes it hard to judge the actual twist rate, and nearly impossible to freshen the rifling.
 I own a Charles Slotterbek double rifle in .40 caliber designed to shoot “sugar loaf” bullets that is gain twist, and has no crown. Unfortunately I didn’t get the bullet mold or the bullet starter when I bought it.

Hungry Horse

[Birddog6]

I think it is made for a bullet starter & made to shoot bullets. But unless you find one with a muzzle exactly the same, it is all guessing. 
The issue I have with guns like this IF you want to shoot them allot, is it is a bugger to get them really clean inside again. Most have pitted bores & are notorious for holding carbon & etc. Unless you want to spend half a day cleaning it each time, where with a regular flintlock or percussion you could be done in 30 min. You could have a bullet starter made to fit the muzzle.

Allot of it depends on How Deep you want to go with this rifle ($)
 
So I would study it a while, not be in a hurry, then make a decision.  Hang it on the wall or use it.  Were I to use it I would remove the barrel & send it to Bobby Hoyt & have him freshen it. That would rid the pitted bore & give you good rifling & good to go. Yes a slightly larger bore but may be worth it to be able to use it.  Bobby can tell you Exactly what the twist & type rifling, & most likely can make a bullet starter or false muzzle for it as well, that fits that muzzle. He can do just about anything that involves barrels.