Locksmith assistance required.

[Jerry V Lape]

I hang my head in sorrow.  I have a beautiful Ditchburn lock engraved by Ken Hurst and I lost the fly which I had in the lock's container dissembled while building another rifle.  I have tried the person currently building these locks but he had none as my lock came from prior owner of the Ditchburn makers. 

Who can make a fly for me? 

[rich pierce]

If you have a Chsmbers lock you could test a Chambers lock fly. Too big would be ok obviously as it could be trimmed.

[recurve]

Call Brad at Cabin Creek    if he can't I bet he will know who can

[A.Merrill]

  I keep all my lock parts in a jar but I tape the fly to the inside of the lid..   Al

[45-110]

Since this is in "gun building" I will say this, other than being small, a fly is very easy to fabricate. Rough it out and finish up with needle files. The fly may be the post type or the ones with a pivot hole. You can make one and harden it faster than trying to find someone to fabricate it.

[Scota4570]

I feel your frustration.  I use the mechanic's magnetic trays for lock parts.  The fly gets special attention and I tape it down.

When I lose steel parts I use a magnetic sweeper to search. 

A fly is not a difficult part to make.  Turn a disk with a stud on the lathe.  Part if off.  Remove the parts of the disk that are not fly shaped.  A lock tuner/maker should be able to do it in about an hour. 

[whetrock]

I've made them without a lathe. So if you end up needing to make one, you can forge the shape onto the end of a small rod, then bend the end up to make the stud. Bend it hot, of course. All this needs to be slightly oversize so that when you bend it you have enough material to file the stud round and have a good 90 degree transition. Do most of your filing while it is still on the end of the rod. Don't cut it off until you ready to fit it.

[45-110]

 

A fly is not a difficult part to make.  Turn a disk with a stud on the lathe.  Part if off.  Remove the parts of the disk that are not fly shaped.  A lock tuner/maker should be able to do it in about an hour.
[/quote]
I did not want to mention a lathe, and that's what I use now days. But have simply forged out on the end of a rod also in the past.

[Jerry V Lape]

Thanks for the suggestion on possible people who might be able to help.   
 As for the suggestion I was negligent in how I store the fly I am careful about
placing them in a small items plastic bag with sealed top. All the lock parts are
sealed in other bags and placed in a small box.   But despite the precautions it is missing.
A mystery!!

[Birddog6]

Brad or Jim Chambers may know where to get a fly for it.  I learned long ago, if something can be lost on a lock, I will lose it.  I put the locks disassembled in magnetic tray (Harbor Frgt) and the fly goes in these tubes, IMMEDIATELY upon disassembly. Allot easier to see this tube on the floor, than find a fly that went into Never-Never Land under my work bench. Also if you make a few lock blocks & you will never again damage a tumbler shaft upon disassembly again. I made one for each style lock I use & they last forever if made in oak.
 






Those of you that pry the hammers off the tumbler shaft, are flirting with disaster.
    You Punch the tumble shaft out of the hammer, not pry the hammer off.

[Clark Badgett]

Brad or Jim Chambers may know where to get a fly for it.  I learned long ago, if something can be lost on a lock, I will lose it.  I put the locks disassembled in magnetic tray (Harbor Frgt) and the fly goes in these tubes, IMMEDIATELY upon disassembly. Allot easier to see this tube on the floor, than find a fly that went into Never-Never Land under my work bench. Also if you make a few lock blocks & you will never again damage a tumbler shaft upon disassembly again. I made one for each style lock I use & they last forever if made in oak.
 




Those of you that pry the hammers off the tumbler shaft, are flirting with disaster.
    You Punch the tumble shaft out of the hammer, not pry the hammer off.

I like this idea.

[Birddog6]

Thank you.

They work exceptionally well. Lockplate is flat & bolster supported.  First I had a brass punch on the work bench to punch them out, but was always looking for it.
So drilling the hole in the bottom of the block & a lil ring ground on the rod., & that brass retainer goes in & just barely locks it in place. No hunting for the punch rod now.  Square end of the punch Fits the hammer, less a couple thousands, so no guessing, it goes straight in & comes right out.
The large hole in the block catches the tumbler each time, so no dropping it or need of a rag to catch it..
I enjoy making gadgets & lil tools as much as I do building rifles.

[Mule Brain]

Might be surprised what a magnet can pick up. I have one tied to a piece of romex and it's great for going under benches and tight areas

[Birddog6]

I don't think a piece of Romex will go in all the boxes of useless $#@* under by bench... But that is a great idea.   Basically I have 500# of $#@* jammed into space for 100#.  If it was Open ? yes, that would work well.  But I put stuff in boxes & containers & mark them so I kinda know where to look for things.

And I am a packrat.  I have a real hard time throwing things away if I see some good left in it. I scrap it eventually, but not uncommon for me to save ? a piece of barrel for ? 5 years. I can test a graver or whatever on it for the angle I need to do a barrel, etc.   

 I have a 42" magnet on wheels I use in the shop & driveway that works well.  Have lots of pallets come in so have to keep the nails picked up.

[wvcruffler]

Have a pic of the tumbler? measurements? Maybe someone knows of something close enough to order then modify to fit.

[wolf]

the last fly i lost, i had my wife sweep my dirty floor into a pile till there was nothing but a clean floor. i stuck a strong magnet in the pile of dirt and dust and heard a click. my wife asked what was that click? i said that is the sound of success! it was stuck to the magnet,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

[44-henry]

Jerry,
If you send me detailed dimensions I can machine you an oversized blank on the Haas that you can finish and heat treat. No charge.

Alex Johnson

[Bob Roller]

I made "flys"properly called "Intercepting Cams"from 7/32X1 carbon flat ground steel and leveled it standing veritcal with a 1/8" parallel and slab milled it from 7/32 to .070 +or minus .002 and that left 3/32 shoulder to form the pin.I cut the bar about  3" long.the fly was about 3/16 wide ad then filed to shape and then the pin was done with a hollow mill and the angles established to cam the sear over the half cocked position.The steel was 0-1.I used a 1/4" 5 flute carbide end mill and  before clamping in the vise on the milling machine and an approach angle was ground to allow the end mill easier start on the cutting.I hope this makes sense,
Bob Roller

[whetrock]

My approach to removing a tumbler is similar to Keith's but I just hold it in my hand. I tap the punch with a small hammer and one tap is usually all that's needed. The tumbler and fly land in my palm. The thing I wanted to show you guys is the shape of the punch. It has a tit on it so that it stays centered while I'm holding it on the shaft with one hand. I made it from mild steel, 5/16 rod, so it's softer than a properly tempered tumbler shaft.

(Some guys just put a pin punch in the hole and knock it off that way, but, depending on how the tumbler is made and tempered, it's possible for the pin punch technique to break through and knock off the small journal/axle on the back side. Tapping the top of the shaft is a better technique.)

[rich pierce]

I’m going to make one of those!

[Birddog6]

My approach to removing a tumbler is similar to Keith's but I just hold it in my hand. I tap the punch with a small hammer and one tap is usually all that's needed. The tumbler and fly land in my palm. The thing I wanted to show you guys is the shape of the punch. It has a tit on it so that it stays centered while I'm holding it on the shaft with one hand. I made it from mild steel, 5/16 rod, so it's softer than a properly tempered tumbler shaft.

(Some guys just put a pin punch in the hole and knock it off that way, but, depending on how the tumbler is made and tempered, it's possible for the pin punch technique to break through and knock off the small journal/axle on the back side. Tapping the top of the shaft is a better technique.)

That tumble shaft is really hard & brittle.  30 years ago I was punching them out thru the screw
hole & I broke the side out of the screw hole, ruining the tumbler. That is when I made the blocks
of oak &  punch & etc.   
I broke one & then had to wait for a new one & the rifle was almost done & I am at a stop now. I
was really *#)*^~ because the guy wanted it for deer season. 
I seldom have one I can hold in my hand & tap it out, they are tight tight....  But I seldom use
anything but Chambers locks.

Also learned long ago to have a spare parts for all types of locks you use allot.

Keith

[Scota4570]

I use a square punch flat bottom that fits the tumbler square.  I have several sized ground from Harbor Freight punches. 

Some of my locks, that were made by others, have the cock screw hole off center.  A centering tit would not help anything and might cause damage on those.