Author Topic: Striking rather than draw filing  (Read 2191 times)

Online whetrock

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Striking rather than draw filing
« on: August 25, 2025, 01:14:37 AM »
There's another thread on here now talking about barrel prep. I put this in there to start with, but then decided it was really a separate topic, so moved it here.


Online whetrock

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Re: Striking rather than draw filing
« Reply #1 on: August 25, 2025, 01:15:18 AM »
This is talking about using striking as contrasted with draw filing for barrel prep.

Here are some photos of a Colerain barrel. (These photos are from 2023, but the barrel is from old stock, maybe 15 or 20 years old, so I have no idea what Colerain's newer barrels look like. So please don't assume from these photos that they are all like this.)

I draw filed a few flats on this barrel, but when sighting along the length while holding it up to a light, I realized that it had a lot of ripples in it. So I switched to striking for the rest of the prep. For draw filing you hold the file perpendicular to the axis of the barrel. In contrast, for striking you hold the file in line with the axis of the barrel.

I used a wide tip permanent marker to black the surfaces. You can see the ripples very easily after a stroke of the file. I think it took about 20 minutes per flat to clean it up. Cleaned up perfectly fine.








As you can see in the next photo, the file I used was a 6 inch double cut. I ground off both ends and sloped the surfaces of the ends so that they had a slight "sled runner" profile. I also rounded the corners just a bit, for safety.

I use a lot of chalk to keep the teeth from filling when I do this. This is just school chalk rubbed into the teeth of the file. For the most part it, to clean the file I just run my thumb over the file to remove built up filings. If it gets bad, I knock a corner of the file against a block of steel (a blacksmithing tool) that I have sitting on the bench top. It occasionally required a file card. But in general, if using chalk, I try to just use my thumb, so as to keep the dust down. I put an old cookie sheet from the kitchen under the barrel to catch most of the filings and dust. I also use a dust mask, and always wear eye protection in the shop.




Striking is hard on the hands. Helps to wrap the fingertips in cloth tape. Good to take a break after each flat, as well, to rest your wrists.

I talked with a friend about how he does this. He does the same task with a hand-held belt sander, but he has also done a lot of barrels and has gotten good at it. I don't have confidence that I could control a sander. Of course, compared to a sander, the file is slow, but very easy to control. And "slow" is relative. I don't think of 2-3 hours shop time on this as a being too long.




To date I've prepped three of these old Colerain B weight barrels this way. All three were pretty rough on the outside, and I found that the widths of the barrels were not all exactly the same. If you will be cutting your own barrel channel then that does not matter at all, but I'd recommend you clean up at least the three bottom flats and side flats of the barrel first, then cut the channel. If you will have someone else cut the channel for you, then I'd suggest you clean up the barrel first and have the channel cut to fit the particular barrel you will use. Don't assume that it will work out well for them to just use a similar barrel that they may have on hand. There may be quite a bit of variation between a rough barrel they have on hand and the cleaned-up barrel you intend to use.

« Last Edit: August 25, 2025, 02:54:16 AM by whetrock »

Offline Birddog6

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Re: Striking rather than draw filing
« Reply #2 on: August 25, 2025, 02:01:30 AM »
I have used prob 25 Colerains. None of them had a finish I wanted & I draw filed them all. Some were better than others.  One I sent back & Kurt replaced it.  Sounds to me like you want more perfection in the the looks than I do.  Possibly for Bluing ?  I am going to age or brown that barrel & it is not required to achieve the look I want.
That must be very taxing on your hands to file it like that.  I would not belt sand one. I envision rounded flats, like you see on a reblued octagon .22 rifle barrel.
Interesting tho, I never thought of filing one that way. 
Keith Lisle

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Re: Striking rather than draw filing
« Reply #3 on: August 25, 2025, 02:15:57 AM »
I use vixen autobody files for striking. I read about them in an old 1950's gunsmithing book. They are like hand planes for the barrel and you can adjust the curve of the file with the turnbuckle.




Mike

Online whetrock

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Re: Striking rather than draw filing
« Reply #4 on: August 25, 2025, 02:25:41 AM »
Birddog6,
In my opinion the main reason to do this is to remove the ripples.

In terms of smoothness, the finished surface after filing like this with a 6" double cut is about the same as what I get with draw filling with a 6" mill cut. Browned, aged, blued--all would be fine with this.

The corners resulting from striking are the same as they with draw filing. No concern there.

Yeah, rounding the corners would be a big concern for me if I were to use a power tool. But the friend I mentioned is a very respected professional smith and he gets good results and doesn't round corners. But as I said, that's after a lot of practice. I'm content with the slower process.

Yes, you move the file along with your finger tips. The file only cuts in one direction, of course. So I push it, then very slightly lift it and slide it back to the starting position. I do sections at a time, and allow the ends of each section to overlap. And stay with one flat until it is completed, then rotate the barrel. The blacking will wear off, so I found it necessary to black the flat a second time about 3/4 of the way through each flat.

Overall, I like the result better with this. But, as said, it is hard on your fingers. The first few flats I did like this started eating up my fingertips. After that I got some cloth athletic tap and wrapped the tips, and it worked great. I tried wearing gloves, but couldn't feel the file well enough. Feeling it is important. I also experimented with pushing it along in various ways, but none worked for me. I also tried coarse sandpaper glued to a block. It did not provide a surface hard and flat enough to do what I wanted. The file works well.

Striking is not a new technique. I know of other builders use it. It just isn't discussed much.
« Last Edit: August 25, 2025, 09:00:58 AM by whetrock »

Online whetrock

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Re: Striking rather than draw filing
« Reply #5 on: August 25, 2025, 02:26:38 AM »
Mike, thanks for showing that autobody file. That's great.
« Last Edit: August 25, 2025, 02:44:04 AM by whetrock »

Offline Birddog6

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Re: Striking rather than draw filing
« Reply #6 on: August 25, 2025, 02:33:47 AM »
I have used those auto body files for years. Have a big flat one & a smaller hand one. Also have
2-3 dif sizes of round ones.
Keith Lisle

Offline Canute Rex

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Re: Striking rather than draw filing
« Reply #7 on: August 25, 2025, 06:01:07 PM »
This is great information. Thanks, Whetrock, Mike.

Offline Jim Kibler

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Re: Striking rather than draw filing
« Reply #8 on: August 27, 2025, 08:16:29 PM »
https://www.jimkibler.net/blog/previous/5

Scroll down on the link to find info regarding "striking" and finishing round barrels

Online whetrock

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Re: Striking rather than draw filing
« Reply #9 on: August 27, 2025, 08:27:14 PM »
https://www.jimkibler.net/blog/previous/5

Scroll down on the link to find info regarding "striking" and finishing round barrels

Thanks for the link, Jim.
(For the other guys) The info is in the section called "Barrel Finishing".

Offline hortonstn

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Re: Striking rather than draw filing
« Reply #10 on: August 28, 2025, 02:17:09 AM »
What is striking?

Online whetrock

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Re: Striking rather than draw filing
« Reply #11 on: August 28, 2025, 02:34:18 AM »
Striking just means pushing the file along the barrel with the file sitting parallel to the axis of the barrel.





In contrast, in draw filing, the file is pulled or pushed along, with the file sitting perpendicular to the axis.




Sorry the photos aren't any better. I wasn't actually filing anything. Just posing so my wife could take a snapshot. I usually file barrels on a different bench, which is lower and has a place to put a cookie sheet to catch filings, but it has other stuff on it right now and I didn't want to take time to rearrange everything just for a photo. (Back in the day smiths would catch their filings, which would then washed and used in making Aqua Fortis stain.)
« Last Edit: August 28, 2025, 04:16:43 AM by whetrock »

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Re: Striking rather than draw filing
« Reply #12 on: August 28, 2025, 04:27:35 AM »
It dawned on me that "file card" might be another term that is unfamiliar to some. A file card is just a stiff bristled brush with very short bristles, designed for cleaning a file. (This word "card" is an old word for similarly shaped brushes used in cleaning wool and aligning the fibers for making yarn.)





Offline thecapgunkid

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Re: Striking rather than draw filing
« Reply #13 on: August 28, 2025, 01:52:53 PM »
Whetrock...
a piece like this is a hge help to those of us who are not masters.  I have never gotten a barrel completely smooth until I tried this.  Thanks again

Capgun

Offline Daryl

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Re: Striking rather than draw filing
« Reply #14 on: August 28, 2025, 05:24:46 PM »
A ctg case mouth also makes a good file cleaning tool. The file quickly cuts grooves in the ctg. case and it will "clean" to the bottom of each groove.
The old ctg. case is held on about a 45 degree angle to the file and is pushed across the file.
Works great.
« Last Edit: August 28, 2025, 05:44:07 PM by whetrock »
Daryl

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Re: Striking rather than draw filing
« Reply #15 on: August 28, 2025, 05:37:43 PM »
A ctg case mouth also makes a hood file cleaning tool. The file quickly cuts grooves in the ctg. case and it will "clean" to the bottom of each groove.
The old ctg. case is held on about a 45 degree angle to the file and is pushed across the file.
Works great.

Thanks for mentioning that, Daryl.

Another thing to know is that sometimes a bit of metal will get stuck in the teeth. This is called "loading", and the bits of metal that get tightly stuck are sometimes called "pins". They cause scratch marks in the work surface. If a file card or a cartridge case (as Daryl describes) won't dislodge them, then it is sometimes necessary to pick them out one at a time with a big needle or other tool. I use an old triangular file that has been ground and honed to a sharp point. Loading is often caused by putting too much pressure on the file while you are working. If you will lighten up a little, it doesn't happen as often. Another problem that causes it is just using cheap files that don't have hard, well-formed, even teeth. Using dull files is also a problem. If the tips of the teeth are bent over and damaged, they are more likely to hold material and develop a pin.
« Last Edit: August 31, 2025, 03:08:41 PM by whetrock »

Offline kutter

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Re: Striking rather than draw filing
« Reply #16 on: August 30, 2025, 06:22:53 PM »
When Striking a bbl surface or any other for that matter, use a coarse grade file as opposed to a fine cut.

The coarse teeth allow ample room for the filings to gather when making long 'strikes' down the flats for example.
That way the 'swarf' as it is sometimes called won't load up the teeth and start leaving the scars in the surface you are smoothing out.

No need for extremely heavy pressure on the striking file. That will just cause you to plant it in position at times and stall the  motion of the strike you are taking. Thats another cause for unwanted digs and scars that just have to be removed with more work.
 
If the bbl surface is wavy , you can do all the draw filing you want to remove it, but the comparatively narrow width of the file to the distance betw the high spots of the 'waves' just makes the draw file process follow the same uneven surface features.

Strike the surface first, then follow up with draw filing if you want a finer finish.
Be careful that the draw filing does not then produce waves and irregularities back into the flat surfaces. This by over working one area of the surface.

An old gunsmith from Italy that I once had the fine experience to work with called the Strike Files,,Sleds.
Maybe a language interpretation, or perhaps just the shape of the long coarse toothed file with a sturdy carpenters Wood Plane looking handle at each end for control  made it look as such.
The teeth on the ones he had were Very coarse, but very sharp and no light weight tool to handle.
But with light, steady & even pressure he could strike a bbl in what seemed no time at all. They left a truely flat surface with no waves or ripples.  No digs, scars or marks from the tool loading up.
He had several of both flat surfaced and rounded contour tools as needed...

Offline Curtis

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Re: Striking rather than draw filing
« Reply #17 on: September 01, 2025, 09:34:12 AM »
I do a great deal of striking! I check often to see if if i am getting the desired results.

Curtis
« Last Edit: September 01, 2025, 06:44:51 PM by Curtis »
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Sometimes, late at night when I am alone in the inner sanctum of my workshop and no one else can see, I sand things using only my fingers for backing

Offline Daniel Coats

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Re: Striking rather than draw filing
« Reply #18 on: September 01, 2025, 03:04:38 PM »
I use a combination of methods depending on location and the amount of material to be removed in that area. Striking alone would take forever.
Dan

"Ain't no nipples on a man's rifle"

Offline rich pierce

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Re: Striking rather than draw filing
« Reply #19 on: September 01, 2025, 03:30:48 PM »
I snap off a long wide mill file for such purposes, to about 8” long. But I rarely see a ripply barrel anymore.
Andover, Vermont

Offline Daniel Coats

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Re: Striking rather than draw filing
« Reply #20 on: September 01, 2025, 03:35:59 PM »
I got one last time which was a surprise being a new barrel. I cleaned it up before I even installed the lugs but maybe that's just me being fussy.
« Last Edit: September 01, 2025, 03:44:33 PM by Daniel Coats »
Dan

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Online whetrock

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Re: Striking rather than draw filing
« Reply #21 on: September 01, 2025, 09:32:59 PM »
I got one last time which was a surprise being a new barrel. I cleaned it up before I even installed the lugs but maybe that's just me being fussy.

I always clean them first. Granted, the bottom side doesn’t need to be finely filed, but I do strike it and draw file it. I don’t see any point in leaving extra metal where it isn’t needed. On old antiques, the weld was almost always put on the bottom. But on most barrels built with contemporary tech, there is no weld. So no need to leave extra metal on the bottom.