DGW frizzen

[Wingshot]

This thread began as a Want to Buy add regarding a frizzen for a Dixie Gun Works lock. The thread generated useful information and discussion, so rather than just delete the add when the sale was complete, the moderators have moved the topic here, so that the discussion can continue. Some details regarding from the earlier WTB thread have been deleted.
Thanks,
Moderators

...............
ORIGINAL POST:

The little foot that pivots on the frizzen spring broke on my DGW .32 mountain rifle today, hoping someone might have one laying around? Coming up empty on the DGW site.

[whetrock]

Is this the lock you are talking about?





Can you remove the frizzen and post a photo, to show exactly what is broken? (In understand that the foot is broken, but it would help to see how much is missing.)

It may be much more cost effective to simply repair the one you have than it is to get and fit a new one. With old locks like this, sometimes the only way to get parts is to buy the whole lock if one comes up on eBay.  This is a cheaply made lock (as you discovered), but since it is getting harder and harder to find, I've seen the things go for as much as 200.00.

 

[Gaeckle]

Log Cabin Shop may have one, probably need to send the lock to them

[Wingshot]

It is that exact lock. I’ll try to get some pics up tomorrow. I’m not too far from Log Cabin and I need to get some other stuff there as well. I understand what you’re saying Whetrock, it looks like pot metal to me. I was thinking of possibly soldering that tiny “foot” back on or worse, JB weld. I acquired this gun for cheap and it was a cap gun that I converted a couple years ago. Got a DGW flinter from a member here, worst case I can swap it back. It’s a good shooter and squirrel season starts next week!

[whetrock]

It's cast steel. Probably had a small crack in it from casting.

They are cheaply made and rather loosely put together, but they have a reputation for being good sparkers and for shooting straight.

So you still have the piece that broke off?
If it were mine I think I'd braze on a new piece. JB weld would not last. Hard solder might. Repairs on locks were often brazed back in the day. A new piece of metal could also be attached with TIG welding.

(Or not. See below.)

[Daniel Coats]

None of that works get a replacement lock if you can't find the exact frizzen.

[whetrock]

Yeah, on second thought, I think Daniel is right.
I just dug in my stash and found a lock like that. The foot coming off the pivot is tiny. Only .7 of an inch (slightly more than a 1/16th) at the base of the foot. There's not enough metal there to successfully braze it. It will just break off again. And welding it is likely to just melt the pivot.
I've brazed stuff that small many times. But if there isn't sufficient surface area between the base and the attached part, the joint isn't strong enough.

[2 shots]

 how about an l and r rpl lock?

[Daniel Coats]

how about an l and r rpl lock?

Perfect answer

[bluenoser]

I have seen much smaller parts TIGGED.  Seems to me, one might be able to improve the design at the same time by building up a more triangular blob and doing a bit of file work.  Just assuming there would be sufficient clearance at full closed and full open positions.  Whetrock could probably answer that question.

[Daniel Coats]

What I would have done (back in the day) is add material then work it back down. What I would do (present day) is buy a replacement lock. The quality of what is being fixed isn't worth the effort and the replacement locks are excellent.

[bluenoser]

Guess I am just a "back in the day" kind of guy.  Have always preferred to repair & improve what I have, or what others have cast off, rather than buy new.  Cannot beat that sense of accomplishment

[Tim Crosby]

 How about marking the position, grinding the foot off, drill and tap for a bolt, 11-16 or 3/16 ? and grind it to shape.

  Tim C.

[whetrock]

How about marking the position, grinding the foot off, drill and tap for a bolt, 11-16 or 3/16 ? and grind it to shape.

  Tim C.

There isn't enough steel there, Tim.

[whetrock]

The trick with any repair to this part of a lock is to make the repair without damaging or warping the pivot (the hole where the screw goes through). These locks are very cheaply made. As with all locks prior to CNC machining, the parts were hand fitted and so not 100% interchangeable. So there's benefit to repairing one with it's own parts if possible, since those are the parts that already fit.

I know a lot of you guys are like me in that you love the challenge of fixing stuff. That said, cost effectiveness is an issue. I'm not the owner here, but I will say that it doesn't make sense to me to put a 100 dollar saddle on a 10 dollar horse.

I have some parts for this lock and have talked with the OP. We'll see if something can be done.

[Bob Roller]

This is a spin off on the Chet Shoults lock from the 1950's Log Cabin may have this style of frizzen and they own/owned all the moulds from Jerry Devaudruel DBA International Arms Co.
Bob Roller                         

[Wingshot]

This is a spin off on the Chet Shoults lock from the 1950's Log Cabin may have this style of frizzen and they own/owned all the moulds from Jerry Devaudruel DBA International Arms Co.
Bob Roller                       

Your recall never ceases to amaze me Bob, thanks for that tidbit.

[Gaeckle]

This is a spin off on the Chet Shoults lock from the 1950's Log Cabin may have this style of frizzen and they own/owned all the moulds from Jerry Devaudruel DBA International Arms Co.
Bob Roller                       

Spot on Bob, these are currently available from the Log Cabin

[Hungry Horse]

 Dixie made this lock for years before they came out with the mountain rifle. The frizzen was always a problem, once you got it to spark consistently it seemed to be so brittle it would break. Half soling the face of the frizzen works. What I did was take a frizzen from an old Dixie F1 flintlock that is similar and can be modified to work great. The old F1 locks are all milled steel, but not the best grade, but the frizzen is made from good high carbon steel.

Hungry Horse

[whetrock]

As Bluenoser suggests, there is a small amount of room where someone could build up the foot into a triangle. But it's just a tiny space.

Regarding their brittleness, yeah, these frizzens were hardened without anyone going back and tempering the pivot and foot. That's probably why this one broke.


Wingshot, I sent you a PM about what I found.

[Wingshot]

Whetrock has come through for me and as I told him I’ll still persue Log Cabin’s inventory just to possibly have a spare. I can’t tell you all how much I appreciate the help, best forum community I’ve ever had the pleasure to interact with!

[Daniel Coats]

We'll send you the bill.

[rich pierce]

One repair to consider in such situations is to completely cut off the toe. Then cut a slot vertically in the pan and weld or braze in a square piece of plate spring steel. It has to be wide enough to provide a substantial “stop” as well as the toe. Whichever is wider if not the same width. Then get busy with hacksaw and files to shape it. Then drill the hole as usual. It’s a big investment in time.

[whetrock]

Screen grab from a video Wingshot sent earlier today.

[bluenoser]

Success!
Shows what can be accomplished when we step in to help a fellow member out.