Original locks for restoration

[rich pierce]

I’ve collected a few original flintlocks of good size and early appearance. I intend, over time, to restore several to flint configuration and use them in builds of early composite guns spanning New England fowlers and muskets, and Hudson Valley fowlers. I think #5 is the coolest but it’s internals are shot.

I think several of these are from the Napoleonic era, and all are European continental locks. It seems that many military locks and Scandinavian locks appear earlier in style than export locks of the same timeframe. I’d like to know more about when and where these locks were made, but also what timeframe they could pass for on a composite gun build. Here they are in order of ease of restoration. Comments on approximate date and origin and “look” are welcome.

[Joe Stein]

I can't help you with any sort of identification of these locks, Rich, but it seems like you will have fun with this interesting project. I'd be interested in seeing the work as you progress. I love learning new ways to make things.
-Joe Stein

[rich pierce]

Thanks Joe! I’ve got to get the tail stock on my lathe fixed so I can make tumblers. Might have to learn how to weld. I think the biggest challenge is making pan/bolster replacements. Years ago I bought a pile of assorted frizzen castings and some other parts. Darned if any of them are just right though! 

[Hudnut]

Thanks Joe! I’ve got to get the tail stock on my lathe fixed so I can make tumblers. Might have to learn how to weld. I think the biggest challenge is making pan/bolster replacements. Years ago I bought a pile of assorted frizzen castings and some other parts. Darned if any of them are just right though! 

When I make tumbler blanks the tailstock isn't involved.  Chuck up the steel and turn down the hammer axle end.  Leave it longer than necessary.  If desired, drill the pilot hole for the cock retaining screw.  Cut off the blank.  Grab the hammer axle in the chuck, and turn down the blank to create the bridle axle, leaving the full diameter section the thickness of the tumbler body.

[rich pierce]

Thanks, I like to drill for the cock screw while it is mounted in the lathe.

[Habu]

When enlarged, it looks like #3 has some traces of engraving in front of the hammer.  Any luck figuring out what it says?

[rich pierce]

When enlarged, it looks like #3 has some traces of engraving in front of the hammer.  Any luck figuring out what it says?

Charleville?

[Habu]

When enlarged, it looks like #3 has some traces of engraving in front of the hammer.  Any luck figuring out what it says?

Charleville?

Charleville, but I'm seeing 2 lines of script--and maybe that is the norm for Charlevilles, I don't know.