Iron nitrate over tried and true varnish oil?

[Toddsndrsn]

Can a coat of iron nitrate be applied and heated over tried and true varnish oil without causing issues?

I sanded my stock down to 320 grit.  I applied two coats of iron nitrate on the stock allowing the first coat to dry prior to the second coat.  I allowed the second coat to dry then heated with a heat gun.  I left the stock over night and checked in the morning and still found some greenish areas so I heated it a second time.  Everything looked great at that point to my recollection.  So I applied the first coat of oil with a 000 or 0000 scuffing pad, not sure which without the old box.  I let it dry for an hour, buffed with lint free paper towel and allowed it to dry.  On the second day, I noticed and area that just didn't look right.  I can't unsee it and think it needs to be heated again or needs another round of iron nitrate.  However doing this may make the finish uneven or cook out the oil and make a miserable mess.  Any of you have advice or some opinions? 

[rich pierce]

Staining after finishing is not possible, without stripping the finish, in my experience.  It's already very dark.  If you want to alter an area to make it lighter, get after it with Scotchbrite in those areas, all the way through the finish to soften the darkness of the stain.

[Scota4570]

No you can not. 

It looks fine to me.  Maybe a bit dark and monotone  color.  As previously suggested rubbing it back will make the grain pop more.  I might do that.  Use maroon scothbrite and mineral spirits.  Be careful not to cut down to bare wood. 

IF you want to modify the color now you will need to use the dye stains sold for the maple gun stocks.  I'd apply it in thin layers and dilute it. You'll have to cut through the existing finish a bit to make it soak into the wood.   I'd probably apply it with scothbrite.

I used to try and force a piece of wood to conform to my preferences on color.  I have backed off on that and let each piece of wood do what it wants to do.  Wood it a natural product and it all finishes up a little different, I like that. 

In the future wet the wood with mineral spirits or alcohol and see if you like it before you apply finish.  Once the finish is on you can not make any adjustments easily. 

Some stocks are finished with stain in the finish.  Original Hawkens were done that way.  It makes the stock super dark and obscures the grain.  It is not my thing but it has it's uses. 

[smart dog]

Hi,
First, you should have painted on one coat of ferric nitrate, let dry and blushed with heat thoroughly to see the result before putting on a second coat and blushing a second time.  I have successfully touched up ferric nitrate staining after a single coat of finish. Lightly sand the area with 320 grit and apply the ferric nitrate, let dry and blush.  You may bubble some finish but it can be easily wiped off.  However, I am not sure how well that will work over a large area of stock and you may have trouble blending it with the rest of the stock.  Stains such as Homer Dangler's that are alcohol based can be useful here because they will penetrate a thin finish.  Also consider tinting the finish with Transtint dyes or stains such as Laurel Mtn Forge that are oil soluble.

dave