Photos of Plan & Carved Kibler Woodsrunner in Maple and Walnut?

[Sherrell]

I’m pondering which way to go on carving and wood for a Woodsrunner.  And if maple, what grade of maple.  I’ve read posts that opine that fancy maple and (dark) walnut either detract from the carving (or vice versa).  I would love to see some pics of plain and carved Woodsrunners in different woods and finishes so as to have a virtual “album” of photos collected in one place. Let’s see em’!

Sherrell

[Jim Kibler]

Here is a carved one I finished.  There are lots of examples on our website of each.

https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=82150.0

[Sherrell]

Thank you, Jim, for your kind reply. 

It’s probably navigation error on my part, but I’m not seeing many photos on your (beautiful) website of WALNUT stocked Woodsrunners - plain or carved.  Perhaps there’s some “hallway” there I’ve not navigated down. The vast majority of everything I’m seeing is maple.  I’ll give it another go.

BTW: do ship your kits with any “scrap” pieces of stock wood so one can test a dye before applying it to stock?

Thanks for your wonderful products, Jim.

Sherrell

[whetrock]

Sherrell,
When working on kits pre-inlet for a barrel (which typically don't have any scrap sent with them) some builders will lightly sand a few spots in the bottom of the barrel channel and use those as a test areas. You just have to be careful not to overdo it, and don't sand the sides that fit against the barrel. And if you used an acid-based stain, then neutralize it well.

Most antiques were not stained in the barrel channels, or in any of the mortises, for that matter. Obviously, it's not necessary. Moreover, nitric acid-based stain (which was commonly used on Maple) has potential to rust steel, and so there are advantages to not putting acid stains in a hole into which you plan to put a piece of steel.
 

[Sherrell]

That is great advice Whetrock.  Thank you.
Sherrell

[whetrock]

I should also have mentioned that acid stains can also cause issues with brass parts, as well, creating a copper-colored halo around the edge of the brass inlays (on the brass itself). So you don't want to put acid stain under those inlays either. And neutralize the stain around the edges of the mortise well.

I hope my comments aren't taken as a recommendation against using aqua fortis, or ferric nitrate, either. It's a traditional stain and it works well. (I would use gloves though, and good ventilation!)

[Sherrell]

Well, I'm leaning toward walnut anyway.  But thanks SO much for your counsel on this Whetrock.  I learn something new here with every reply or post I read!

Sherrell

[Daryl]

By all means wear gloves with ANY acid. I didn't when browning a barrel with Nitric + Steel wood and ended up with burning finger tips and a "thick skin syndrome" for many years.
My fingers that were exposed (most) would grow thick skin. I had to use the belt sander to (carefully) grind off layers of skin so I could feel a trigger. It was weird. If i didn't often grind
off the excess, they would split or dry-check, in the winter time - that hurts. Had to seal those with CA.