Preventing an "in the white" barrel from rust

[Skeleton]

Hi folks, I'm Working on a scratch build Kentucky long rifle, percussion lock made by me, 42 inch barrel from track of the wolf (the "made in usa", unbranded, straight octagon barrel), and a stock made of incredibly dense white oak. Seriously, I usually don't mind rip cutting  by hand but this wood is so tough I used a circular saw to cut a kerf before finishing by hand.

Anyway, onto the subject on hand.

I'm nearing completion of this rifle. I need to finish shaping the nose cap, make the ram rod eyelet to attach to said nose cap, and of course, the ramrod. Then I can, at long last, assemble the gun for the last time. However, I was preparing the barrel tonight and when I was looking up how to use cold bluing, discovered that the metal actually needs to be heated up. I didn't expect that because it's called COLD bluing. I have no way of heating a 42 inch barrel to 300 degrees. If I leave it "in the white" can I just keep it very well oiled and have it start to darken after a couple years? Is there any other way I can darken it? All the other metal parts were darkened to a gray color via vinegar.

[45dash100]

Every cold bluing solution I've used hasn't called for heat.  300 degrees is hot caustic salt bluing temp.  Lots of ways and different types of cold bluing.  Do a bit more research.

Some people even use brass darkeners on steel.

[FALout]

You don’t say what brand of bluing/browning solution you have, but almost anything that you have to heat the metal to use is dangerous for user to breath in when applied.  If used do it outside.  All of cold blue I’ve used was either no heat or boiling the metal then carding the metal.  Post what you got.  I’ve seen lots folks not do anything but it’s a fight to keep it rust free, most eventually just let rust naturally, not my thing but different strokes for different folks.

[Steeltrap]

Then I just use Breakfree CLP and never have a rusting issue.

[Birddog6]

I'm nearing completion of this rifle. I need to finish shaping the nose cap, make the ram rod eyelet to attach to said nose cap, and of course, the ramrod.

 Is there any other way I can darken it? All the other metal parts were darkened to a gray color via vinegar.

Ramrod Eyelet ??  You mean the RR Pipe ?  It does not attach to the nose cap.  It is supposed to be pinned to the Stock.

If you just want the barrel Darkened, You can just Birchwood Casey cold blue it & rub it down.  Or
most good Browning Solutions the first stage is blue.  Just stop there.  Or put some 1/2 Clorox & 1/2 water mixture in a spray bottle & spray it will & leave it over night & it will mottle to a aged look. Lots
of dif way.  DO NOT walk off & leave it...........  Watch it every 2 hrs.

HOWEVER.........  to save you allot of Sanding, try it on some CLEAN scrap metal first.

When I do the barrel it must be CLEAN & I mean glass beaded or scrubbed good with CRC Brake Drum Cleaner & wear Nitril gloves. ANY fingerprints will show & make the finish uneven.  And if your wife comes around & grabs the door knob, she just contaminated it with hand lotion & you grab the door knob & then the barrel.  Guess What ?   You get to start ALL OVER. 

When all is done,  Barricade is the best rust inhibitor. I use the Non-aerosol in the bores & spray
on the locks & etc. 

[Daryl]

Birchwood Casey Perma Blue Paste Gun Blue is the best cold blue I have ever used, since 1972.
2 to 4 coats without touching with your fingers will give a perfectly even finish. Rub in each coat
well.
After you've got the even colour, pour cold water over it and rubbing with a clean cloth, wipe dry
then spraying with WD40 finishes this procedure.
Then, if you want to rub it back or whatever, do your thing.
That is the method I used for this pistol barrel, 10 years ago.

[Skeleton]

I'm nearing completion of this rifle. I need to finish shaping the nose cap, make the ram rod eyelet to attach to said nose cap, and of course, the ramrod.

 Is there any other way I can darken it? All the other metal parts were darkened to a gray color via vinegar.

Ramrod Eyelet ??  You mean the RR Pipe ?  It does not attach to the nose cap.  It is supposed to be pinned to the Stock.

Yes, I suppose I do mean the ram rod pipe. I wasn't aware of the proper terminology for it, thank you for teaching me. I was intending to make it on my lathe with a threaded stud on it to screw into the bottom of the nose cap, but I guess I can attach it to the stock instead. When you say it's "pinned" to the stock, do you essentially mean it's nailed? Or is it more like a rivet? My stock is already stained and finished.

As for the bluing, I'll look into it again. Thank you.

[Skeleton]

Steel trap, thanks for the break free clap suggestion. My brother's into ARs and is gonna give me a bottle to try out.

[Birddog6]

Gonna look strange with that pipe connected to the muzzle cap.

The RR front pipe is normally 3-4 “ from the end of the barrel.
RR pipe has a tab under it you make fit & inlet it, then a pin or
2 goes thru the wood & RR tab to retain it.

Finish is the Last thing you do. For me I have shot ? 25- 50 rounds
thru mine before I sand & finish it.

[Skeleton]

Birddog, okay. I will change my plan for the ramrod pipe. I suppose I should have waited to finish the stock, but man does it look nice. I put the rifle together today, and don't have to take it apart again. I just the ramrod, and the pipe of course. For the barrel I went with the break free CLP recommendation from steeltrap, and I have to say I'm glad I didn't blue it because the plain barrel looks really good with the stock.

Oh darn, I still need to order the sights for it 🤦I forgot about those until right now.

[Birddog6]

The CLP is good I use it for modern weapons.

On the RR pipes, there should be a middle pipe as well, on a 42” barrel.
You put it centered between the entrypipe & the RR pipe you have installed
near the muzzle.

Curious, how do you have the stock secured  to the barrel ?

[Birddog6]

Oh darn, I still need to order the sights for it 🤦I forgot about those until right now.

A lil tidbit on sights.  Take a small flat magnet & put the front & rear sight on with it. 
Shoulder the rifle & look down the sights at a light.  Move the Rear sight Up or Back to
where you can see the sights good. Then Mark on the barrel that is where it needs to be.

Now TAPE the sights on with some electrical tape & try them. If you need a Much Taller or
much Lower sight, nothing is cut in & not a issue. Just get another one & repeat.

When ya get the sights, you will see they are made to Dovetail on. File that dovetail some,
so it is Undersize.  That way if you get another one, it is not too small for your dovetail in
the barrel. Also, you make a Safe file for doing the dovetails.  I use a #6 triangle file that I
have sanded smooth on one flat.  That keeps you from filing too much off the barrel under
the sight.  If you need a couple photos, I prob have some of doing Underlugs & Sights. Both
are dovetailed on.

[Daryl]

Steel trap, thanks for the break free clap suggestion. My brother's into ARs and is gonna give me a bottle to try out.

Seems to me, Break-Free CLP was invented to keep the guns working in Viet Nam.

[P.W.Berkuta]

First I recommend you get a book on building a flintlock rifle. This will give you a lot of insight on how things go together. Having a good book is a good thing for future reference. Some of your questions tell me you did not do enough research before you started your build.

I've used cold blue and rubbed it back for a distressed look and it was fine but it did not wear well and had to be redone often when the gun was in use. I use mostly Mark Lee Express Blue. It is a rust blue solution and does a great job with a small amount of work on your part. You can either boil or steam your parts to convert the rust oxide to a nice blue/black look. Some people use a PVC pipe filled with hot water to get the rusting process going.

[whetrock]

Skeleton,
What sort of barrel are you using? Who made it, what width is it at the breech and at the muzzle, and what caliber?
I'm asking because the barrel dimensions can be important when you start cutting dovetails. You need to have enough barrel wall thickness between the grooves in the bore and the bottom of the dovetails. (Same issue for both sights and barrel lugs.)

[Birddog6]

Or you can solder the Underlugs on with soft solder (not silver solder braze)

 

[Skeleton]

I'm going to summarize I think all the questions I've been asked.

Birddog6, I made one of the ram rod pipes. I think I will make another yet. The barrel is held to the stock by the tang screw and a beefy underlug out near the end of the barrel. The underlug is dovetailed plus soldered to the barrel.

 I filed the dovetail and did the soldering. I cut the dovetail about .0625 (1/16) deep, as I read to do so in another post on here.

Whetrock, the barrel is one of the unbranded "made in usa" straight octagon barrels from track of the wolf. 13/16 all the way down it. It's a .45 caliber barrel.

[HighUintas]

Skeleton, I built a gun and finished all the metal (all iron furniture) to 600ish grit with paper and then used a gray scotch Brite pad for the final finish. It has seen moderate/heavy amount of use in mountain hunting in the last couple years. I did use some brass blackening solution on the barrel and rear sight and rubbed it back just to dull the shine a bit but is otherwise all in the white.

My experience has been so far that unless you keep an oil rag with you, you'll end up with some rust spots on high touch areas. I've got some light rust on the rear sight, on the barrel around the rear sight, etc because I hold it there while I'm hiking. There's rust on the butt plate because I put I down on the ground sometimes. I'm not going to be super meticulous about trying to keep every spec of rust off because it was built to be used and not babied. I do oil it when I can, but I'm not trying to keep it brand new looking. There's some darkening from fouling on the barrel around the lock, maybe a little bit of patina in some other spots, but I think it's going to be a long while, if ever in my life, before it develops an aged appearance.

[Birddog6]

Skeleton.  You don't realize it, but IMHO you need a Builders book. Sorry,
but this is like a kid building a house without any plans & never done it & it
may fall in on everyone. 

Now, that being said, I  DO admire your gumption & drive.  But
there are just some things ya Do & some things ya Don't do in building
rifles. Plus the fact we want you & all around you to be safe.

Regards

Keith

 

[whetrock]

Hey Skeleton,
On a 42" barrel, in addition to the tang bolt, it's common for there to be at least three lugs (and sometimes four) with pins (or flat "keys") to hold the stock to the barrel. Positions vary. If there are only three, then it's common for one to be few inches behind the ramrod entry hole, second to be an inch or so behind the center ramrod pipe. Then the third and final is usually an inch or two behind the muzzle cap.

A couple of guys have mentioned books. There are several to choose from.  One of the more comprehensive is "The Gunsmith of Grenville Country", by Peter Alexander. A lot of folks on here have found it very helpful.

Whetrock