Laurel Mountain barrel brown

[flembo]

I have done 3 barrels with this browning agent with no problems, all 3 came out great. I am working on a Kibler fowler and for the life of me I can't get the entire barrel to brown up evenly. 2/3 s of the barrel look great but the last 10 or 12" at the muzzle just won't take. I am wondering if possibly flux from soldering the sight is causing the problem. I sanded the barrel smooth the entire length prior to browning. I also notice that the under side of the barrel in that area is nice and brown only the top portion is a problem. Any help would be appreciated.

[Bill in Md]

low humidity perhaps?

[Daryl]

Acetone or Duracryl (no longer available in Canada) wipe will get rid of the oil or whatever is causing you fits.
Duracryl makes Acetone look like WD40. Wonderful de-greaser.

[Bill in Md]

oil residue from steel wool can cause that if you used it without degreasing

[whetrock]

oil residue from steel wool can cause that if you used it without degreasing

Good point, Bill.

[flembo]

Thanks for the quick reply's I am going to try acetone on a  scotch brite pad then 320 paper. I'll let you know the results.

[PEARL DRUMS]

I can’t speak to browning. When I cold blue I wear latex gloves and scrub the barrel down several times with Dawn dish soap and a brush. The gloves stay on until I’m done with the job. I never touch the barrel with bare hands throughout the process. I get perfect results every time.

[bluenoser]

Acetone would probably work, but I prefer a thorough scrub in washing soda followed by a good rinse.  The problem does appear to be some type of contamination.

[hortonstn]

Windex with ammonia is a great degreaser

[flembo]

a picture showing the area in question

[FALout]

Before browning/bluing I take my parts outside and wash them down with brake cleaner then wipe them down with acetone.  There may be a few spots where rusting doesn’t take, but eventually it will.

[mikeyfirelock]

This is a shot in the dark from way outside, but do you use any sort of skin care products that might leave a film or residue on the metal,   ( just a small remembrance of my years seeing unusual stuff as a retail pharmacist. )

[whetrock]

You asked above if perhaps the flux had caused this. I would assume that if the flux had anything to do with it then the area right around the sight would be affected, but it looks in the photo like that took a brown just fine.

[A.Merrill]

  Seen a barrel  many years ago that wouldn't brown right in the middle, about a 1/3 of it.   Al

[Scota4570]

I just did a green mountain barrel with LMF.  The humidity is very low and the temperature is in the 40s to 50s in my shop.  It worked fine but took a full 24 hours between the five  passes.  The end result was a dark even plumb color.

I like to card with  a bronze suede brush better than the .003" wheel.   

I have been using industrial window cleaner concentrate, a squirt of Dawn, then about half iso-proply alcohol and water as my de-greaser and general shop cleaner lately.  If you work the de-greaser with maroon scotchbrite you will get down to bare metal.

I'd be tempted to etch the obstinate barrel slightly with muriatic  acid after de-greasing.  I'd try  a quick pass, only  enough to see a slight reaction.  I'd then rinse it off with a lot of water.  I'd then heat the barrel just warm and apply the LMF as normal.

Muriatic acid will cause after rust.  I'd neutralize it at the end with strong ammonia or balking soda.  I apply used motor oil on a warmed barrel when I am happy with the color.  IT will still rust after oiling, so watch it for a week or so.

[flembo]

Thanks all for suggestions. This is a Kibler Fowler so I called Jim and he also gave me some suggestions to try. He is sending a different brand of barrel brown he say's is a little more aggressive for me to try. As a last resort he will send another barrel. These people are fantastic to work with. This is my 4rth Kibler kit and I have been extremely happy with them, and with dealing with such great people.
         Flembo

[stan57]

Has anyone been able to contact Laurel Mountain Forge lately? The web site is still up, but they wont answer the phone.

[Daryl]

I used LMForge browning solution for years. They listed it as a barrel browning & degreasing solution. I've always cleaned barrels before browning, with AJAX cleanser and water, then flushed with water, or wiped with Acetone when I had a can of that in the Shop.

[wvcruffler]

a picture showing the area in question

Was this before or after you went back and degreased it? It's probably a surface contaminant - wax or oil preventing the oxidation of your surface.