AmericanLongRifles Forums
General discussion => Gun Building => Topic started by: runastav on January 21, 2012, 12:22:05 AM
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Hi Guys!
My next build is a Duellpistol, walnutstock, Green M barrel cal 45 and Blackley Manton lock. The barrel is 12", cut to 10" rest 2" Hmmm Deringer ;D
Runar
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Yeaaahhhhh. This is going to be fun to watch. Thanks Runastav.
Coryjoe
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Run,
What are you going to use for a trigger. I guess as a dueler, it would not be a set trigger??
I've been trying really hard to find a pistol set trigger, so far, the only one's out there are from Pedersoli, and they want $350. NOT GONNA HAPPEN!!!
It's going to be a beauty.
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As usual we all will be looking forward to your progress. It looks as though you have a nice start already. Smylee
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Are there any books on Dueling pistol details, with pictures and specs on originals?
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Georgian Pistols by Norm Dixon,, has lots of details,
if you can find it,,
The English Pistol, A Pictorial Study,, also has good details
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Duelling pistols have simple triggers, Target pistols might have set triggers. Perhaps Muzzleloader Builders Supply has a set trigger. I bought as good one from them for my Virginia rifle.
Runestav is capable of making a single set trigger.
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I've heard references of duelling pistols having set triggers. Maybe not the norm. Single set I'm sure.
Making the first one is hard enough the second is more difficult as one has to match the first one
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I've bought set trigger castings from Blackley that were taken from a original Wogden dueller.
Haven't had time to try and assemble it jet. I was surprised how thin the mainspring is. I would have thought it was to to weak to fire a lock.
Best regard
Rolf
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I can say I bought a set of castings once for a wheelock, won't say where, but other than a tinplate it was worthless. I ended up remaking almost every piece
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Hi,
Most best quality and fully evolved English dueling pistols had set triggers, which were called "hair" triggers by many at the time. John George has a nice diagram of a typical pistol set trigger in his book on English pistols and revolvers. Rolf's set from Blackley's is similar to that drawing. I had the privilege of handling dueling pistols by Innes, Joe Manton, and a third maker (I don't remember the name). All had hair triggers and were of the late flintlock, half-stocked styling similar to Runastav's project. Without exception they were exquisitely made. They all had heavy barrels that were almost straight and were horribly unbalanced. Indeed, the Manton pistol was the worst, and I greatly disliked the feel of it. When I built a pair, I chose a pair of 1780s Wogdon's as my models. For my tastes, they make the the later heavier dueling pistols feel like hockey sticks in comparison. In my opinion, the early and mid-career fullstocked pistols of Wogdon, Twigg, and John Manton are the best of the best of the best with respect to appearance, feel, and handling. Of course, I am biased because I like lighter pistols and I have relatively small hands. Someone with large hands may prefer the heavier style. I did not not include hair triggers in my pistols because the pull was crisp and light without the set mechanism and makers sometimes did not include them on the earlier dueling pistols.
dave
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Duelling pistols were made with a heavy barrel for a reason When most people snap shoot and miss it's because they tend to shoot high as in warefare, hunting,and self defence. Duelling was no exception. So duelling pistols were made with heavy barrels to try and compensate in pulling the shooters arm down, in fact it didn't work as well as intended so the makers bored the barrels to shoot even lower.
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Hi Blunderbuss,
The first English pistols designed for the purpose of dueling evolved during the 1760s. Dueling pistols were made well into the 1840s and during that 80-year history, the fashions and styles changed. I am aware of the purpose of the heavy barrel. Joe Manton was a main player promoting that fashion. However, the heavy barrels were also introduced at a time when dueling pistols were evolving away from snap shooting tools for defending your honor and into target guns. Pistol shooting at targets became a great fashion in London during the early 19th century and the heavy pistols were a reaction to that trend. Some, including Mantons, were rifled. According to Rigby's essay on pistols published during the early 19th century, pistol makers starting in the 1780's (long before the heavy barrel fashion) used various strategies for shaping and boring barrels to prevent high shots. Supposedly, Wogdon bent his barrels to achieve that objective at a range of 20 paces.
dave
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The last duellers I made were saw handled 1" across the flats 10" and .50 cal. percussion smoothbore I posted them awhile back I'll put them up again if you'd like.
They shot real well muzzle heavy like you said but accurate on a large target out to 50 yards
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Good morning, and thank you all!
I see no point in a set trigger, the Mantonlock is very small and I think it vill work like a clock ;) Ok, the GM barrel 7/8" cut to 223mm(8-3/4") and I must make a Patent Breech whith 5/8x18" treadhs and the lenght vill be 9-1/2" inkluded the Breechplug. As you see I use photos from a old HEGE catalog 1986 as a backup! Next step is the hook.
Runar
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Good day to ya Runar; Thanks for sharing your new project with us. Looking foreward to completing each step of the build with you. Great pictures. I have always been a fan of English duelling pistols. My favorite maker is H. W. Mortimer. (1775-1811) It would be nice if there was a supplier of Duelling style locks with safety. Not enough demand I would guess. Thanks, AJ
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Hi Runar,
I guarantee you will not need a set trigger for those locks nor will you need a spring to keep the trigger bar firmly against the sear at full cock, half cock, and at rest. Good luck with the project.
dave
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Thank you guys!
Next is the standing breech. And the barrel inletted in stock, forend is blackwood.
Runar
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Template for the lug
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wow, nice pictures... I like your idea of pasting the picture full size to your stock wood...
First thing I buy when I put my shop together is going to be a lathe or a mill. I am impressed with the things you gents are making.
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At one point according to the formalized and accepted dueling codes, were not set or hair triggers and rifled barrels considered improper? seems I had a book on that here somewhere, but can't locate it at the moment
I seem to recall "issues" over the Hamilton-Burr pistol set over one or the other. Even as dueling went out of fashion (at different time in different areas) cased pistols were still popular accoutrements of a "proper" gentleman. I suspect that is is these later pistols that evolved away from actual pistols specifically built to match the dueling codes into the heavy barrel target and general defense pistols.
of course this may just be nit-picking over semantics, Two guys can fight each other over anything with anything, from shotguns to broadaxes---and probably have
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Not all single set triggers are readily noticeable because some of English ake kad no external adjustment screw to identify them as a set trigger. I have a single set trigger,English from a Fenton pistol that was destroyed in the 1940 air raids over London. It has no external adjustment and can only be adjusted by the tightening or loosening of a very strong sear spring. I once heard Paul Harvey talk about the Burr-Hamilton duel and he mentioned a "hidden hair trigger"that caused Hamltons pistol to fire prematurely. Lynton McKenzie gave me this trigger with the original guard still attached sometime in the early 1980's and I used it as pattern for new ones.
I have a book that talks about the "Death of Gentlemen"by dueling and it is in a book called The American Gun.
Bob Roller
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Hi,
Joseph Hamilton makes no mention of any prohibition on hair triggers, rifling, sights etc. in his 1829 book, "The Duelling Handbook". The majority of true duelling pistols that I've handled or seen have set or hair triggers and front and rear sights. Several of the best makers, including John and Joe Manton, made some pistols with shallow rifling that was not visible at the muzzle. Perhaps, there were some informal gentlemen's rules about those things but the best makers knew their customers probably didn't care even if those rules ever really existed. Most hair triggers had a visible set screw but some makers devised set triggers that were hidden, often with the trigger pull permanently set by the gunsmith. The pistols used in the Hamilton-Burr duel were made by Wogdon. They don't have obvious set screws so they may have hidden set triggers.
dave
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Thank you guys!
And now its time for assembling the lock. It came from Blackley in a plastik bag. No drawings, screws,frizzen roller,hammer safety spring but all vas nice done.
I began with tre frizzen, and use old dentist burrs for me it work better then a senter punch and I alvays pilotdrill 1,5mm hole. Screws is 3mm.
Runar
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Hi Folks!
Lockplate pilotdrilled 1,5mm, bridle, tumbler and sear in place :)
Runar
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I use maskingtape on the hammer, it leave imprint for filing the square hole yes I know can use soft solder ;)
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Nice.
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that is very nice work and photography
Any accounts of duels I have read and legal clean up afterwards wether with pistol, sword or blunderbusses in baloons only seemed to care that both parties were equally armed with neither side having a material advantage.
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Runar
I just wanted to let you know how much I enjoy your sharing your project with us. I appreciate your many and excellent photographs.
Bruce Robb
Looking foreward to your next post!
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Was the front hook on the lock plate cast as part of the plate or added by you?
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The quality of workmanship I see on this forum continues to astonish me. I'm doing well when I can get a knife handle installed on a blade blank.
Anyway, for more information about duelling pistols in general, the Canadian Journal of Arms Collecting has a number of pertinent articles in their back issues. These are available from the Museum Restoration Service (http://www.armscollecting.com/CJAC.htm). This link has tables of contents for all of the back issues. An article in the February 1979 issue (Vol. 17, #1) has the particularly intriguing title of "Anatomy of a Duelling Pistol."
I have a number of issues of this journal. The articles tend to be pretty good, although many of them are rather brief.
Notchy Bob
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Hi and thank you guys!
Chris Treichel, cast as part of lockplate.
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So it is the sliding safety. See the photos.
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The safety flatspring was not in the plastikbag from Blacley, so it must be made of 1,5mm flat springsteel.
Photo show spring in on and off the sear spring is svinged up for view.
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Hi Folks!
Oops, @!*%?& the hammer safety lever and stirrup is TOOO thin for casehardening ??? New stirrup made fast of springsteel much stronger ;) Blachley must be clairvoyant there was 2 hammer safety lever in the plastikbag ::) The Manton lock is almost ready for the stock!
Runar
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Jaw screw and hammer screw
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The lock looks really good!
Is it possible that these two small pieces are high carbon steel intended to be hardened and drawn, rather than mild steel to be casehardened?
I used a piece of O-1 drill rod for the last stirrup I made, to replace the broken one in a 19th century double shotgun lock.
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These little links or stirrups are made better when made from flat stock.The stiffness of most cast mainsprings can be a prescription for disaster if the usually flimsy cast links can break at full cock and the mainspring will come down hard and take the bottom out of the lock mortise.
Are these English castings as precisely done as ours? I have never seen any of them but percussion hammers and are they of known materials when it comes to hardening them?
Bob Roller
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Runar,
On thin case hardened parts (pack hardened or carburized), it's a good idea to draw them back, at least in the thin areas. A torch will work fine for this process. I would temper back to at least 500F and probably a little more. Tempering on case hardened parts is a good thing. A great deal of toughness is gained for a small sacrifice in hardness. If colors are an objective, then tempering may ruin them depending on the temperature used. That's a beautiful lock for sure.
Jim
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These little links or stirrups are made better when made from flat stock.The stiffness of most cast mainsprings can be a prescription for disaster if the usually flimsy cast links can break at full cock and the mainspring will come down hard and take the bottom out of the lock mortise.
Are these English castings as precisely done as ours? I have never seen any of them but percussion hammers and are they of known materials when it comes to hardening them?
Bob Roller
I bought two wogden flintlocks and two Le Paige percusion lock sets from Blackley. He uses lost wax casting and they are top quality.
The springs are cast in EN8,carbon content to approximately 0.75. The rest of the parts are EN3b, max 0.24 carbon. The frizzens have to be case harden.
Best regards
Rolf
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Thank you guys!
The lock in place, sorry Manton not perfect but good enough for me ;)
Runar
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Hi Folks!
The trigger is made and in place, and yes Taylor it is high ;)
Runar
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runastav; You never cease toblow my mind away!!! Bob Reader
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Hey!
Greybeard, remember my English reading and writing is simple Sailormanenglish ;)
The triggerplate, good stuff this parts from old BMW car hehe.
Runar
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Runastav...Your skill is noteworthy.
There are two things I'd have done differently. I think there's too much wood below the lock. It tends to place the tail of the lock above centre in the wrist. If it were mine, I'd deduce the vertical height of the stock at the lock/trigger area. That will mean changing your already-installed trigger too.
Second, the trigger plate, to my eye, would look better if it were completely flat, without the rounded forward surface, and those details added with engraving instead. I think the trigger plate should be inlet flush with the wood, which as I said, is too thick along the bottom of the stock, in my humble opinion.
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In this case the trigger plate is also the front trigger gaurd extension so, even though it is not per the original example, I believe it looks good as is though it may not be correct. I guess it is all about taste in this case. Nice file work, by the way. J.D.K.
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You are doing good work Runar, but it could probably benefit by slowing down a bit. All the details add up to a finished project. Specific to this project, there is little room for interpretation and variation. But I understand everyone is not happy with the same approach to gunbuilding, and that is ok. Consider these just some suggestions intended to help. Good luck.
Jim
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Hey Folks!
Thank you guys, and off coarse I listen to pro me only a ex industry mechanic ;) Taylor I will reduse the hight ca 2,5mm and redrill the triggerhole agry the tail must center the wrist. Ok, the standing breech is now ready for action and the triggergard on its way out of pipe.
Runar
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Hey Folks!
Trigger guard made, 2,5mm wood off it will be a slim duellpistol :)
Runar
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I'm surprised no one has mentioned the distance from the trigger bar pivot point to the sear engagement. To my eye it looks a little long resulting in a heavy pull. I really enjoy your builds, keep up the good work.
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Yeah, it does look a little long. With that said, I think our tendency today is to place it closer than is typically encountered with period work. I've seen 1/2" - 3/4" to be typically on the original guns I've had a chance to examine. Setup well, a pull that is not too heavy and has little creep can be obtained.
Jim
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I'm surprised no one has mentioned the distance from the trigger bar pivot point to the sear engagement. To my eye it looks a little long resulting in a heavy pull. I really enjoy your builds, keep up the good work.
[/quote
Yes!! The trigger pull might be a bit heavy in the prerent location. With a bit more curve in the trigger it could be mover back perhaps 3 /8 inch and make for a much nicer let off with minimal creep.
Bob Reader
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Yeah, it does look a little long. With that said, I think our tendency today is to place it closer than is typically encountered with period work. I've seen 1/2" - 3/4" to be typically on the original guns I've had a chance to examine. Setup well, a pull that is not too heavy and has little creep can be obtained.
Jim
Timely! I was a fixin to post about sear bar/ trigger pin relationships between originals and modern guns.
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Hi and thank you all!
Like said before, all parts in this lock is very small. Including the Tumbler and its notch. The full cock notch is so small that creep dont exist. The triggerweigth is just a litle heavyer than the gun ( ca 1 kilo) perfekt for me ;)
So I made the underbarrel rib from 12x8mm barstok.
Runar
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The front timbler is silversolder on, the rib soft solder on barrel
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Nice
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Runestav...that looks much better. If I may add, I would like to see a little more wood come off the bottom of the forearm too. You don't need more than 3/32" of wood below the rod hole, so if you can, I'd like to see you reduce that wood. Overall, it's looking very nice.
I disagree regarding the critique on the trigger placement. Runestav is saying his trigger pull is a little over 2 pounds...how much lighter do you want a dueling pistol, or a target pistol, for that matter? And moving the trigger back would change the architecture for the worse. No...it's just fine.
Nice work Runy!
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Ditto Taylor.
The trigger location is fine.
Doubly so since it has a very light trigger.
Dan
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Great work!
Love the trigger guard. I like also your choice of materials to make the trigger guard & trigger plate. Great thinking & recycling of materials.
Certainly saves work using old pipe to make trigger guard bow.
Keep the great gun making comming
I can send you a rusty " Old Ford " for more parts.
Fred
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Hey guys and thank you!
Enter thimbles made, and litle wood off forestock Tayler ;) Yesss Old Ford send me a rusty old ford heheee ;D
Runar
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It's looking good Runar. That's a nice entry pipe you made. Thanks for posting photos of your progress.
Jim
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Runar....that's looking very nice. Now your profile sis much better. Great entry pipe! They're fun to make, eh?
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Great work!
Love the trigger guard. I like also your choice of materials to make the trigger guard & trigger plate. Great thinking & recycling of materials.
Certainly saves work using old pipe to make trigger guard bow.
Keep the great gun making comming
I can send you a rusty " Old Ford " for more parts.
Fred
I have the pleasure to visit (and get help from)runastav,
he truly is a recycling kinda guy.
Great work runastav!!
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Hey, and thank you guys!
Underlug, wedge key and slotted oval inlays made. Ovals made from a coin, sorry King Harald ;)
Runar
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Frontfastening lock, ask pro screw or nails for oval inlays?
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Same patent on this Swedish 1860 Wredes rifle
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Hey guys!
Little duellpistolbuilding, and the reason you see in photo ;)Buy me a Colt 1860, and it was in baaaad shape I have made 5 new screws, mainspring etc :)But now it is in working order, maby I can shoot it but the cylinder is heavy rusted inside :(Sorry adm for off topic talk ;)
Well, the fronsight is ready for shooting inn
Runar
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Runastav, it's been fascinating and educational to watch you build this pistol. You're a true craftsman. Thank you for sharing.
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Hey Folks!
Thank you dogcreek :) The pistol begin take shape
Runar
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The Colt 1860 cowboy dueller insisted be on photo with the English dueller hehe ;)
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Very nice!! You do wonderful work. I appreciate you sharing the building process with us!
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Runar,
Well done in all respects. Thankyou for walking us through your build. It is always interesting to see how others approach a project and the steps to get it done.
I am certain that this will be moved over to the tutorial section of the site.
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Thank you Dr.Tim-Boone and Dave B!
So it is time to fix the patent Breeching. The powder chamber is drilled 8mm, and it vill take 19grs 3F perfekt for me. Krossdrilled and tap 1/4-28" stainless plug counterbored 3mm and flash hole 1,5mm. Access hole filled with stainless screw. See photo it is easy metalwork ;)
Runar
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Powder Chamber take 19 grs 3 F
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Thanks for sharing the build! I learn something new with every post!
Regards,
Albert A Rasch
The Rasch Outdoor Chronicles (http://trochronicles.blogspot.com)
Best Boar Hunting Calibers! (http://trochronicles.blogspot.com/2007/12/boar-hunting-rifle-calibers-part-i.html)
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Hey, and thank you soldier Albert!
@!*%?&, this pistol must have Checkering I hate it >:( Here is a little start, 18 lines pr". Overruns who me? nooo hehe ;)
Runar
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Hey Folks!
Done, phhhuuu not perfekt but good enough for me ;)The lines on the pistolstock is like a roller coaster ::)
Runar
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Hey guys!
Pistol ready for prooftesting and the shootingrange. Browned with Track"s Tried & True Brown in damp box.
Runar
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Very Very well done!! Bob
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NICE!!! Gleder meg til å få ta den i nærmere øyensyn.
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Outstanding job, and tutorial!
Thanks!
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Thank you guys, I am humble :)
Runar
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that´s a great work , your workmanship is outstanding .
Bau noch viele Waffen ;D
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Runar, Its a beaut and watching you make it was very special!! Thanks for sharing with us!
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Hi!
I like it! I want one ,i really really want one;)
Like Hand i too look foreward to check it out .
Top notch Runastav