shooting Jim Kibler's flintlock

[Roger Fisher]

May be swimmin up stream again; but I simply cut it in strips then at the muzzle.  I tried the arch punch years and years ago; simply too much putzing around for me.

[doulos]

May be swimmin up stream again; but I simply cut it in strips then at the muzzle.  I tried the arch punch years and years ago; simply too much putzing around for me.

I pretty much do the same. I just carry the prelubed strips in plastic ziploc bags but instead of cutting at the muzzle i cut them with sciccors at the shooting table. takes about 10 seconds to cut 10 patches.  Im gonna try cutting at the muzzle.

[bgf]

At shoots with bench, I always cut at the muzzle from soaked strip, but I pre-cut squares for w-walks most of time.  Couldn't tell any difference b/t round and square pre-cuts as long as they were consistent when I tested, but that was some time ago; the squares are definitely easier to crank out.  I've got enough pre-cut for my pistol for a few years, but they don't go as fast as my rifle's patch supply.  For consistency, though, I don't think you can beat cutting at the muzzle, and its no more difficult as long as you have a bench or a tree trunk handy, but it does add a step to the loading process that might confuse beginners while they are trying to get a handle on things.

[Roger Fisher]

At shoots with bench, I always cut at the muzzle from soaked strip, but I pre-cut squares for w-walks most of time.  Couldn't tell any difference b/t round and square pre-cuts as long as they were consistent when I tested, but that was some time ago; the squares are definitely easier to crank out.  I've got enough pre-cut for my pistol for a few years, but they don't go as fast as my rifle's patch supply.  For consistency, though, I don't think you can beat cutting at the muzzle, and its no more difficult as long as you have a bench or a tree trunk handy, but it does add a step to the loading process that might confuse beginners while they are trying to get a handle on things.

Between the thighs youngster, between the thighs (your thighs that is rifle butt on the ground muzzle away from your bod (and everyone elses! Then you have both hands to work with...

[Flinter]

Roger, I am cripple enough that I cannot stand on but one leg. There is no way I could load a muzzleloader like that. That is a good idea to be aware where the muzzle is pointed.

Well, I bought a 1 ¼ inch roller bearing set, but I did not have any luck finding a 2” ball. Rats!!!
I went outside and thought, “What do I have that is 2” and hard?” I looked down at my truck trailer hitch and there it was.
I put the nut in a vice with the ball flange down against the bench vice jaws and tightened it up. The cloth was placed over the ball with the bearing lying on top. When I hit the bearing, it fell onto the floor with a perfect cut patch. After I cut a few patches, I found I could tap on the bearing with a four pound hammer while holding onto the bearing. It only took a few minutes to cut a pile of patches.
I would cut the patches dry gary trapper. If they are wet, the patch will pick up sand from the floor or bench.




I am going to order some Teflon patch material and cut the cloth at the muzzle. I sure would like a one hole group at 50 yards like Roger Fisher.


Mike

[smylee grouch]

I think your right about lubed patches picking up stuff you dont want but you could put some type of catch bag under it I think. Lube after you cut also takes less lube as your not lubing the waist.    Gary

[Flinter]

Gary

I have found the best way to lube the patches is to take five inch forceps, grab the patch by the edge, and dip them into a bottle of patch lube. When I pull the patch out of the bottle, I pull the patch between my finger and thumb to remove most of the lube. Then, I lay the damp patches flat into a plastic snuff can. High tech muzzleoading equipment.

Mike

[smylee grouch]

If I'm doing lubed patch strips I melt the lube in the microwave and dip the rolled up strip in the melted lube then unrole and role up two(one on each side)two unlubed strips with the lubed one and place in a ziploc bag. The unlubed ones absorb the excess from the center lubed one.  So far its worked OK.    Gary

[Leatherbelly]

 Try this,
   Go to the confection at your drug store.Look for a tin about 2x3" called Altnoids. It's a hinged tin.Hinged tins can be opened and closed with one hand while loading. Throw out the crappy candies, drop the empty tin on a hot element of your stove or BBQ.Burns the paint right off, and you've got yourself a nice hinged patchbox to put your pre-cut patches in.Pour on some lube,soak them and go shooting. It doesn't take up much room in your pouch either. I like mine.

[Flinter]

Gary, what kind of patch lube do you use?

Leatherbelly, I see you are a lot like me in that you can't sleep good at night.  My wife works at a drug store. I will get her to get me a tin and try it.

Mike

[smylee grouch]

Flinter, I use Bear greese,comercial past lube and a small(teaspoonfull) portion of JB Bore cleaner paste. I melt this, stir it up and dip the strips in to the liquid. Its pretty hot so I use something to hold the rolled up strips, then I unroll and roll up the two other strips with the wet one and put into thr zip loc bag.    Gary

[Daryl]

Wow!- sounds as if you guys spend a lot of time just getting patches lubed.   The method LB noted, takes seconds.

Cutting the pre-cuts is the most time consuming - probably 20 minutes would allow 300 or more to be cut with a race and ball, many more with an arch punch or sharpened hole saw.

 Between cutting nicks, then ripping 4 strips cloth and pulling off all the looseneed threads off the sides, all the rolling, unrolling, heating and filding with lubes, I'll wager I can cut pre-cuts amounting to those 4 strips, and lube them in however many boxes are needed - about 60 to 100 to a box depending on size) like LB noted and have them lubed and be loaded & ready to go shooting while you're still rolling and unrolling your patch material, trying to get the lube even. I know it's not a race, that isn't the point - just that the pre-cuts and tin boxes makes patchs and carrying them so simple. Plastic bags?  Sorry not for me. Can't imagine opening up and re-sealing a plastic bag every time I wanted to load. Nope not going to happen.

Deltoids is only one-such crappy candy tin box that's available.  There are several.  Also, the snuff boxes and fireatarting boxes Track sells in brass or German Silver work perfectly.

[James Rogers]

Deltoids is only one-such crappy candy tin box that's available.  

Crappy? I would think DELTOIDS would be "shoulders" above all other candies.  

Just a'funnin  

I have in fact tried the baggies for hunting (modern ML with flint) and found them a pain also.
I found a bunch of hinged tins about 1 7/8" by 2 1/4" at a rendezvous some years back and they work perfectly for me.

[Leatherbelly]

Back to my hinged tin. I experimented by putting 2 cloth patches in the box while burning the paint off. It smoked a bit for a second or two but it made a nice pattern on the box lid. Sort of looks like it's case hardened. I did it on an electric range and kept turning the box over a few times to get an even burn.

Oh, another thought about lube. For range shooting and trail walks, I use a waterbased lube. Hunting, I recommend straight(pure) neetsfoot oil. My water base lube(range) is -45 WWW fluid based. In a quart jar, I add about 3 to 4 tablespoons full of neetsfoot oil, 1 tablespoon of Dr. Bronner's Magic soap(any veg based castile soap should work),and voila! range lube. Shoots all day,no rinsing,lol!

[smylee grouch]

I agree with you Daryl about the plastic bags, I should have said that I only use these when I shoot at bullseye type shoots where you have loading benches,range rods, and all the other paraphenalia that goes with that type of shooting.    Gary

[Flinter]

I am working on getting some kind of tin to put my patches in. I am going to try electroplating the tin with copper. I am going to try or compare the strips verses the precut and see what happens.

I mixed up some WW fluid and Neatsfoot oil, and man… this stuff is slicker than owl’s s*** as us southern people would say.

These groups were shot last Tuesday. The .021 denim patches were lubed with Hoppes and the distance was 50 yards.
 I stopped with a load of 115 grains of 2f Goex, because the patches were looking pretty rough. I plan on using some different lubes and different patch material. I also got some .020 Teflon coated patch material. These loads will probably be shot next Wednesday or Thursday.









Now... I wonder how much the group size can be contributed to my shooting ability. 


Mike

[Daryl]

Looks like you've hit the nail on the top of the head, Mike.  Your groups from 100 to 115 are virtualy identical. Time to start playing with 5 shot groups. Notice these are better on average than your previous 3F groups?

3 shot groups gives you a quick & easy method of finding a load work pursuing.  I'd say from those groups, I'd start at 105gr. 2F and shoot more into the same group, as in 5 or 6 max. Shoot mulitple groups, not more shots in each groups than that.

Too - your crown is a bit sharp-cornered/edged - that is obvious from the patches.  Bit of 320 or 400 emery - the end of your thumb - perfect results.  If you want,you can end up with crocus cloth for a nicer polish.  A flinter's barrel is easily polished up in the crown using a lathe - some cap guns too.

Note if a group is round - it is usually a 'good' representation of what the rifle is doing. Thrown shots with a rifle are usually shooter error.

Running different patterns, ie: horizontal or vertical can represent differing requirements on powder or ignition.  With our muzzleloading flinters and cap-locks, you're pretty much stuck- but smaller or slightly larger vents can make a difference. Usually the smaller the better for accuracy. Too- a stronger or weaker cap can make a difference. For example, my .69 does NOT like nipples with holes in the sides - hot-shot nipples they are/were called.  They were instant group openers at all load levels.