Author Topic: Test Firing Barrels (Read 71237 times)

Hudnut · « **on:** February 07, 2012, 05:35:18 PM »

I always like to test barrels detached from the stocks - so that in the event of a failure, damage is limited to the barrel.
I dislike fuse, because of the lack of close control. Instead, I fire them electrically. A piece of two lead flex is used, and a twist of steel wool affixed to the bared ends. A 9v transistor battery is applied to the other ends. The steel wool becomes incandescent almost instantly.
The barrel is secured to a plank, butted up against a block. Sandbags over the assembly to hold it down. A mound of powder is placed over the vent, the steel wool on that. Have fired percussion barrels this way, just make a little cone of paper and tape to hold the priming over the nipple.
I've only ever blown one breechplug, and that was from a set of horrible antique barrels. Turned out someone had previously messed up the threads.
Hardly a traditional approach, but it works.

TMerkley · « **Reply #1 on:** February 08, 2012, 05:09:19 AM »

Never thought of doing it that way. Sounds alot safer than firecracker fuse and running like $#*!! Maybe just not as exciting.

Just like a combat zone. Many days and hours of boredom are broken by twenty seconds of shear terror!
Shot at and missed, $#*! and hit!

ERH · « **Reply #2 on:** March 23, 2012, 10:47:48 PM »

i like the two inchs of cannon fuse and run like $#*! and hope u dont trip !! LOL

Hudnut · « **Reply #3 on:** March 23, 2012, 10:54:38 PM »

I've used fuse, don't run so well anymore. I like the positive control that comes with this new fangled electricity stuff.

wmaser · « **Reply #4 on:** March 26, 2012, 10:06:32 PM »

I opted to go with a percussion cap ignition system. This percussion "lock" is triggered with a pull string. In order to control the heavy recoil generated by the proof loads, I installed a shock absorber, stolen from the hatchback of my son's Nisson 280Z. If you look closely, in the video, you can see the string begin to tighten as the devise is fired. Note , also, the recoil being taken by the piston and then slowly returned to its original position. The devise is anchored to the ground with several 8" spikes. I no longer have the barrel breaking it's wooden holder and flying across the ground.

mjm46@bellsouth.net · « **Reply #5 on:** April 11, 2012, 04:48:26 PM »

Wild Bill
Pretty cool device! Do you think it would work without the shock absorber?
What proof charge and load do you use?
Have you ever blown a barrel?

Dphariss · « **Reply #6 on:** April 11, 2012, 11:58:50 PM »

I use about 12" of fuse

Swamped barrels must only be clamped at the muzzle and breech.
Made from scrap 2x6
Click on it for video.

Dan

Dphariss · « **Reply #7 on:** April 12, 2012, 12:02:13 AM »

This was a 1 1/8" straight 58 cal

wmaser · « **Reply #8 on:** April 13, 2012, 10:25:56 AM »

Quote from: Micah on April 11, 2012, 04:48:26 PM

Wild Bill
Pretty cool device! Do you think it would work without the shock absorber?
What proof charge and load do you use?
Have you ever blown a barrel?

Yes it would work without the shock absorber, but I got tired of splintered wood and flying barrels. Once I had a tang bent. That was tough to fit back in the stock. The shock absorber handles the impact rather nicely and , as you said, It's "pretty cool".
This particular barrel was an old shotgun barrel I aquired in a trade. I reamed the bore to .75 cal and loaded it with 250 gr of FFg powder and two patched round balls.
No. As hard as I've tried, I've never blown a barrel or a breech plug. ( I don't use touch hole liners)

Eric Smith · « **Reply #9 on:** April 15, 2012, 03:30:34 PM »

Dan, Loved the video. I have 3 barrels that need to be proofed. What kind of fuse do you recoment and where can I find it?

Dphariss · « **Reply #10 on:** April 15, 2012, 04:00:40 PM »

Quote from: E. Smith on April 15, 2012, 03:30:34 PM

Dan, Loved the video. I have 3 barrels that need to be proofed. What kind of fuse do you recoment and where can I find it?

I use cannon fuse from the local gun store. Its green and is about like M-80 or Cherry Bomb Fuse used to be.
I also use a shop made rifle cradle for Swamped barrels that only holds them at one end or the other. C-clamps can bend a swamp unless used at the very end.

If I made more percussion guns I would make a device to use a cap to fire them.

Dan

Hungry Horse · « **Reply #11 on:** May 21, 2012, 04:51:57 PM »

Back about thirty years ago, I was deep into building my first trade gun, from a bunch of surplus parts old Turner Kirkland picked up while dragging a magnet through Europe, and maybe India. In the back of the Dixie Gun works catalog was a picture of somebody proof firing a barrel by sticking it in an old tire, and tying the muzzle down. That looked good to me, so thats what I did. The round barrel was a .20 ga. and 30" long. I decided it needed proofing because it was obviously an unfinished shotgun barrel originally designed to be part of a double gun. Also I had draw filed it OTR and wasn't sure how deep I had gone on the wedding rings. The text, with the picture, said to double charge it, and double ball it, so thats what I did. One hundred and twenty grains of 2F, and two patched balls. Now I'm here to tell y'all that if you don't use a steel belted radial tire, you're gonna have to do some hunting' to find that barrel. Luckily I didn't stand behind the tire, and didn't point it toward the house. The barrel when about 25 yards out through the orchard, but it stayed together, and the gun got built.

Hungry Horse

Eric Smith · « **Reply #12 on:** May 23, 2012, 03:20:35 PM »

Quote from: Dphariss on April 11, 2012, 11:58:50 PM

I use about 12" of fuse

Swamped barrels must only be clamped at the muzzle and breech.
Made from scrap 2x6
Click on it for video.

Dan

How much time does 12" of cannon fuse give you?

Smoketown · « **Reply #13 on:** May 26, 2012, 04:12:28 AM »

Always ... ALWAYS test and time the fuse material that YOU purchased for it's burn rate!!!!

Example: Green burns different than the red!!

The stuff I bought last time burns SLOWER than the new stuff ...

Cheers,
Smoketown

Eric Smith · « **Reply #14 on:** June 04, 2012, 12:51:35 AM »

Good Advise!

heelerau · « **Reply #15 on:** November 09, 2012, 03:14:58 PM »

Quote from: Hungry Horse on May 21, 2012, 04:51:57 PM

Back about thirty years ago, I was deep into building my first trade gun, from a bunch of surplus parts old Turner Kirkland picked up while dragging a magnet through Europe, and maybe India. In the back of the Dixie Gun works catalog was a picture of somebody proof firing a barrel by sticking it in an old tire, and tying the muzzle down. That looked good to me, so thats what I did. The round barrel was a .20 ga. and 30" long. I decided it needed proofing because it was obviously an unfinished shotgun barrel originally designed to be part of a double gun. Also I had draw filed it OTR and wasn't sure how deep I had gone on the wedding rings. The text, with the picture, said to double charge it, and double ball it, so thats what I did. One hundred and twenty grains of 2F, and two patched balls. Now I'm here to tell y'all that if you don't use a steel belted radial tire, you're gonna have to do some hunting' to find that barrel. Luckily I didn't stand behind the tire, and didn't point it toward the house. The barrel when about 25 yards out through the orchard, but it stayed together, and the gun got built.
As a ten year old kid, I proofed an old Pat 53 Enfield barrel in a tyre, only used a 2 3/4 ffg dram charge and a single minne and tied the barrel down, might have been an old tractor tyre, anways, 41 years later still using the old girl. !!!

Cheers

Gordon

Hungry Horse

AZshooter · « **Reply #16 on:** November 23, 2014, 09:16:55 AM »

Quote from: Hudnut on March 23, 2012, 10:54:38 PM

I've used fuse, don't run so well anymore. I like the positive control that comes with this new fangled electricity stuff.

Apparently you're old, fat & slow (like me). I just use longer lengths of fuse. Got some green that's so slow you could begin raising a family & even have your shoes back on, before it goes off, it burns so slow.

jamesthomas · « **Reply #17 on:** November 25, 2014, 02:03:06 AM »

I personally don't think a Rice, Colerain, or Green Mountain barrels need to be "Tested". Same goes for a Rayl, Long Hammock, or any other modern made barrel, JMO. But I would test old Wrought Iron, DOM, or Cold Drawn Steel barrels though.

WadePatton · « **Reply #18 on:** November 25, 2014, 02:22:11 AM »

Quote from: james e on November 25, 2014, 02:03:06 AM

I personally don't think a Rice, Colerain, or Green Mountain barrels need to be "Tested". Same goes for a Rayl, Long Hammock, or any other modern made barrel, JMO. But I would test old Wrought Iron, DOM, or Cold Drawn Steel barrels though.

Depends on ones skills in rebreeching and cutting slots and installing t/h liners i reckon. Plus, i'm just always going to test 'em before i lay my face up there next to it.

kaintuck · « **Reply #19 on:** November 25, 2014, 03:30:32 PM »

I beleive Charles test fires his work, and will send you the target if requested......
Marc n tomtom

David R. Pennington · « **Reply #20 on:** November 30, 2014, 06:30:32 AM »

I'm thinking I want to proof a barrel I have but I would like to do it before I build the rifle. So I don't want to drill touch hole yet. I suppose I would need to make a temporary breech plug and drill it for touch hole. Any one done that?

kaintuck · « **Reply #21 on:** December 11, 2014, 11:49:23 PM »

Charles does it that way i believe.......
marc n tomtom

mark esterly · « **Reply #22 on:** December 12, 2014, 01:29:38 AM »

you mean you're not supposed to test your build holding it finished in the white?

Dphariss · « **Reply #23 on:** December 31, 2014, 06:22:00 PM »

Quote from: E. Smith on April 15, 2012, 03:30:34 PM

Dan, Loved the video. I have 3 barrels that need to be proofed. What kind of fuse do you recoment and where can I find it?

Its green "Cannon Fuse" I buy at the local combined Gun Store, Gas Station, State Liquor Store, C-Store and Gift Shop.
It can be found on line as well don't know how its shipped.

Dan

http://www.hyattgunstore.com/traditions-a1264-cannon-fuse-muzzeloader-15-ft-each.html

tecum-tha · « **Reply #24 on:** January 06, 2015, 11:50:25 PM »

FYI:
http://rsengineering.de/Bogentest/german%20proof%20firing%20loads.html

News:

Author Topic: Test Firing Barrels (Read 71237 times)

ERH

wmaser

mjm46@bellsouth.net

wmaser

Smoketown

AZshooter

jamesthomas

kaintuck

kaintuck