Lock inlet Pictures?

[Eric Smith]

Can some on post some lock inlet pictures with the barrel in the wood? I have my plate down and the bolster butts right upt to the barrel, zero gap. Now I need to inlet the guts of the lock. I have a general idea of what I need to do and where I am going, but if someone could post some pictures of a lock inlet, Im sure it would help, if only to settle my nerves for the job ahead!   

[Acer Saccharum]

Some folks inlet the lock as one piece. I have not tried that yet. I go piece by piece. It works. I am happy.  

Inlet your plate. Draw thru the holes for the screws


Align the sear and bridle on the holes, and trace, then drill out for the tumbler.


Drill out any other screwheads(measure how deep, first). Inlet the bridle(which is now screwed onto the plate). Then put the tumble in plate, inlet that. Then put the sear in plate, inlet that.


Install sear spring, inlet that. Mark out for mainspring, rough drill it.


Inlet Main, for all positions. Observe all the little spots that touch and hinder function. I use inlet black on a toothbrush to put a slight film of black on the parts. Cut relief everywhere you see black. But not the plate inlet or bolster...that's already done, and you want those to remain snug.

[mattdog]

Very excellent post, Acer.  Just when you think you know it all...  I've not used your technique of drilling before.  I learned a new trick today.

Thank you.

Matt

[Jim Kibler]

Here's an approach that might make things a littel easier.  If you look at a finished inlet you will see that basically everything is at the same level with a couple of exceptions.  The bridle is deeper and the front of the mainspring is generally deeper than the rest of the parts.  Instead of drawing and inletting each part at a time, lay the positions of all the parts out after inletting the plate and then develop one profile outline.  Cut this to the necessary depth and then deepen for the front of the mainspring.  Inlet the bridle and then the job is basicaly done.

[Mike Brooks]

I do it the same way Acer does,only different.

[Meteorman]

[bgf]

One thing that always seems to come up the first time is that little "ledge of wood" by the oblique barrel flat.  Sometimes it can be substantial, but often it can shrink or even disappear depending on the size of the barrel and lock, and also the travel of the mainspring at the tumbler.  Don't be too alarmed if your inlet doesn't look exactly like someone else's.

[Rick G.]

Great post Acer. Things like this are great for novices like me..

[JDK]

I do it the same way Acer does,only different.

Enjoy, J.D.

[LehighBrad]

[dannybb55]

The photo is reversed!!!! 

[DB]

Does anyone use a template to know exactly where to remove wood?

[heinz]

Yes, I make a copper template of the lock profile and bolster cut out for the initial cuts.  I use it primarily to get the lock alignment and the bolster cut and then use the lockplate for the rest of the inlet

[DB]

I mean for the internal inlet/guts.

[DutchGramps]

The photo is reversed!!!! 

Perhaps a southpaw...

[Cory Joe Stewart]

I too do the same thing Acer does, but mine is not clean enough to eat off of like his.

Coryjoe

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

They 're just showing off!!   

[Hudnut]

Not applicable for a one-off, but years ago I was inletting a quantity of locks.  Made three templates which were secured to the stocks by the two lock screws.  One for the plate, one for most of the works, one for the bridle.  These guided a router.  Made it very easy to quickly install the lock, with only minor touchup inletting being done by habd.

[Acer Saccharum]

Some folks inlet the lock whole, without taking the parts off. I have not tried this method yet, but might after I graduate from Jedi school.

[Dale Campbell]

Jedi school?  Isn't that where they make you inlet locks blindfolded?