Lock lubrication

[Larry Pletcher]

I'm finally getting around to a test of lock lubricants.  We often discuss a lubes ability to prevent rust.  For this test I'm interested only the ability to prevent friction.  I want to see if there is a measurable difference in lock speed with different lubricants.  I suspect that there are numerous favorites.  I'll probably select a group of 5 or 6 to time.  I have  some gut predictions but, I hope to supply numbers. 

There are many problems with variables in this attempt.  However, there is always something to learn, even if it is unexpected.  I'd like to try it and see what happens.  Feel free to suggest lubes you like, keeping in mind that preventing friction is our only concern in this test.

Regards.
Pletch

[Joey R]

Well,I'll start it off with one I use. Accralube from Jim Chambers.

[smylee grouch]

Will you be completly cleaning the locks after each lube test? I assume you would and what lock/locks will you be using?

[Larry Pletcher]

The lock in question is a Siler that I've used for testing since the '80s.  It was recently rebuilt by Jim. The plan is to clean the lock dry of lube with acetone or some such solvent. While dry of lube it will be timed as a control.  The "dry" test will be limited in numbers for obvious reasons. 

Before each new lube test, the lock will be cleaned, finishing with a solvent.  Then the lock will be lubed for the next test.

Regards,
Pletch   

[Long Ears]

Pletch, try this one, it's not suppose to be temperature sensitive. Bob

http://www.gamaliel.com/pwaccessories/ponsness-warren-stos-lubricant-2-oz-jar.asp

[Kermit]

Stick with things folks are likely to use, stuff like Ballistol, 3-in-1, etc.

[Roger Fisher]

Teflon in spray form..

[bgf]

Something with a good bit of moly in it would be nice to test, but it might mess up your tests.  I use the (out of production) Beeman version of this:
  http://www.pyramydair.com/s/a/Air_Venturi_Moly_Metal_to_Metal_Paste_1_oz/3498
I put it on lightly when assembling a lock and about every year afterwards, with a light oil for each cleaning in between.  The moly adheres to the metal for a long time.

Two caveats.  1) Not everything that says "moly" has enough to do any good.  2) If it does, the moly is extremely difficult to remove completely !

[Hungry Horse]

Super lube by Permatex, is what I use. It comes in a tube, and is clear. It is very slick, and as to its toxicity, its food grade.

                       Hungry Horse

[flintriflesmith]

I appreciate your desire to isolate just the lubricating quality but I suspect the reality is that most shooters will probably use the same oil or grease on the entire lock. (Unlike some modern handguns that need a high pressure lube on the slide.) I have always believed that the camming surface on the tumbler would probably benefit from one of those but really doubt that any but the most intense competitive target shooter would take the time and effort.

All of that said, I would recommend including those general purpose rust preventative oils actually being used. My personal choice is a CLP sold under the trade name of BreakFree. I believe the military adopted it as a multi-purpose cleaner, lub, and preservative. When I clean the lock with hot water and it looks totally free of fowling I dry it and then hose it down with Break Free --- more fowling always washes off--- After a few minutes I dry it and leave it in all the pivot and sliding surfaces.

Gary

[bob in the woods]

I use bear oil, refined by myself.  It works extremely well

[bgf]

I use bear oil, refined by myself.  It works extremely well

And to state the obvious, is anything really slicker than owl's grease ?

[Bull Shannon]

AMSOIL spray lube.

[Old Bob]

3 In 1 Sewing Machine Oil.

[WadePatton]

i've recently started using tallow, deer grease , on everything-mostly to prevent rust on my straight razors and other high-carbon cutting tools. It's quite slick too, but excess might cause a problem in the sub-zero conditions up yonderville.

i often use Naphtha* for fine internals were clean is as important as a lubed.  Old gunsmith advised this years ago.  Said that enough residual lubrication is left after the solvent evaporates.  Would like to see if it's measurable.  It's certainly clean and non-dust-attracting.

*most often in the form of cigarette lighter fluid (ala wick lighters), or camp stove/lantern fuel.  used to be called "white gas", but is _not_ gasoline.

Seafoam Deep Creep gets used a lot 'round my shop.

Wurth 2000 (Wurth HHS-K the EPA complaint name for HHS 2000) is a supreme penetrating lubricant.  I use this sparingly but would love to see it tested. You might borrow a can from a friendly high-end mechanic, as it's kinda pricey.  It sprays out watery thin for penetration, then sets up to a higher viscosity.  

one more vote for the legendary owl snot too.    


Hey, once you knock off the first set of these experiments--and have a winner, then we can (you can-thanks Larry!) assemble another group to try to dethrone the champion.  I have a whole 'nuther sort of lubes to suggest if we get to a second or third round.

[Larry Pletcher]

Thank you all. I probably will have more lubes mentioned than I can test.  The choices may need to be samples that are representative of a lube classes.  I agree with Gary than most shooters use a single lube for all lock parts.  Gary's idea about a high pressure lube on sliding surfaces was mentioned to me by Jim Chambers.  He is experimenting with a two part lube system using a liquid on rotating parts and a high pressure lube for the tumbler and frizzen contact with the spring.  Jim gave me a sample of these lubes to time.  The idea is that the sliding surfaces need a lube that isn't wiped off.

I didn't mean to rule out lubes used for rust prevention, but will only try to use lock speed to compare friction or lack of it.

The problem with this test will likely be variables that flint and flint edge wear.  Flint issues may be a larger variable than lubes.  Frankly I expect to see a difference between lubed and unlubed, but maybe differences between lubes will be hard to see. We won't know until se try.

Regards,
Pletch

[duca]

How about OX-YOKE Originals Best Dam Gun Oil..........

[WadePatton]

our very own flintlock mythbuster!  thanks again for all your timing work Mr. Pletcher.

Could you substitute something in place of a flint in order to reduce that variable?  We're looking at speed not spark right?

[mjm46@bellsouth.net]

I sometimes use a choke tube lube on main spring bearing points and frizzen cam. Usually I use Chambers Accra lube. I tend to like a thin oil thick oils gum up things too much.

[Larry Pletcher]

our very own flintlock mythbuster!  thanks again for all your timing work Mr. Pletcher.

Could you substitute something in place of a flint in order to reduce that variable?  We're looking at speed not spark right?

Wade,
At Friendship in Sept, Jim and I  talked about that.  I have infrared gates that will allow a measure of mechanical time only. they are tricky to adjust properly, and I was afraid to mention the possibility.  If the preparation can be done reliably, I'd use them.  If not I'd resort to flints and measure ignition.  This is an old system.  I used it for Vol. 4 of Journal of Historic Armsmaking Journal.  With  some luck I may get it all together.

Steve Chapman, ALR member, lives near me and sometimes is available to help.
Regards,
Pletch

[Scout]

I have used LSA ( Lubricant, Small Arms) on my locks until I realized I was getting low with no resource for replacement in sight. I now just use Rig grease on the pressure points and CLP on the rest.

[jamesthomas]

I use bear oil, refined by myself.  It works extremely well

 I use bear oil also, just a little apllied with a Q-Tip. About every 3rd or fourth range trip. Stripped with 91% alcohol first. Works as good as anything else. 3an1 works good also.

[Vomitus]

  Laugh all you want. I like Amsoil synthetic 20/50 motorcycle oil used sparingly.

[Bull Shannon]

  Laugh all you want. I like Amsoil synthetic 20/50 motorcycle oil used sparingly.

I'm not laughing at all, both mine and my parents vehicles are bumper to bumper Amsoil lubricants.  The only reason I switched Birchwood-Casey Barricade on my guns instead of their MP spray is because I can get it in the 4 ounce bottle and apply it by the drop.

[Larry Pletcher]

I brought my testing set-up into the basement .  My garage is heated but I'd rather not run temps up and down because of some old cars.  Will if I have to.  I will be testing infrared gates and begining to figure out the methods. 

I have to thank an ALR guy for a real stroke of luck.  He offered me a sample of whale oil to include in the tests. That gives us a chance to include what I expect is the best of colonial lubes available. 

Regards,
Pletch